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Thread: Erratic jumping idle on my 94 Civic Si...

  1. #1
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    Default Erratic jumping idle on my 94 Civic Si...

    My 1994 Honda Civic SI has an erratic idle. It stays at 3000-3500rpm when started cold till it warms up a bit then goes down to 1500rpm and jumps to 2300rpm consistently. What could this problem be?? Here is the video on youtube..

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEiTi5GAcrQ

    I can also hear a clicking from the fuse box but not sure if thats my command start or something. Im not getting and CEL's and everything seems to be ok. As well when it drove previous it would studder at open throttle or when you just lightly press on the gas.

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    sounds like you have a vacuum leak and also probably an issue with your TPS sensor.

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    Wouldnt the TPS sensor through a engine code?

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    Default Re: Erratic jumping idle on my 94 Civic Si...

    Originally posted by mikey_p
    My 1994 Honda Civic SI has an erratic idle. It stays at 3000-3500rpm when started cold till it warms up a bit then goes down to 1500rpm and jumps to 2300rpm consistently. What could this problem be?? Here is the video on youtube..

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEiTi5GAcrQ

    I can also hear a clicking from the fuse box but not sure if thats my command start or something. Im not getting and CEL's and everything seems to be ok. As well when it drove previous it would studder at open throttle or when you just lightly press on the gas.
    The idle issue sounds like your IACV needs to be cleaned to me, it is really easy to do and on hondas they do it all the time. And the Studder sounds like ignition timing
    Last edited by =[]BARG[]=; 01-29-2010 at 01:42 PM.

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    Default Re: Re: Erratic jumping idle on my 94 Civic Si...

    Originally posted by =[]BARG[]=


    The idle issue sounds like yourIACV needs to be cleaned to me it really ease. and the Studder sounds like ignition timing
    The IACV is also a possibility for the jumping idle. Both the IACV and TPS can cause this issue yet not throw a code it's kind of frustrating.

    In some cases even cleaning the IACV does not fix the problem and a new one or different one has to be installed.

    The studder can also indeed be because of igintion timing, usually the distributor or plug wires.

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    Clean your throttle body with the injector cleaner

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    Im going to test the TPS sensor with a multi meter.. From what i've read it has to be 4.5 at idle and 5 at WOT. as well anyone know the test for the IACV on a 94 civic 1.6L?

    I'm also going to look into vapor lock or air in the cooling system. Im hoping its not a head gasket issue..

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    I thought it was more like 0.45 when closed and around 5 when at WOT.

    A quick google search would confirm.

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    So turns out i was quite low on coolant and had air in the system.. Once we fixed that the jumping idle went away and ran normal. However now i have a studder when i press the pedal. Either WOT or normal acceleration the studder is there. It feels like the car is running on 3 cyl when i press the pedal.. Is this a issue of a dirty IACV or TPS?

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    my truck idles shitty in real cold temperatures, but only since my tune.
    in normal temperatures, she idles great, just anything under -10, her idle is a lil rough
    Originally posted by Mibz
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    My hybrid burns Diesel & Oil

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    check the iavc, it is known to do that when dirty.

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    Originally posted by mikey_p
    So turns out i was quite low on coolant and had air in the system..
    how long did you run it like that? do you know if the car ever over heated?

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    Here is the TPS test.. either im retarded and messed up the test or the sensor is right out of wack.. Here is the link.. and sorry its tilted.. You'll notice the starting point is 11.95. I'm on the OHM setting at 20k like i was told to be. Then it goes down to 7 something and back to 8 at WOT. watch the video and see for yourself.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPXgIx0EdeM

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    throttle valve fully closed it should read 0.5 VOLTS and with the throttle fully opened it should read 4.5 VOLTS at the red wire.

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    Got it... Ran .49 v closed and 4.49 WOT.. Im guessing that means the TPS should be ok? Next would be the IAVC test/clean... Anyone got the procedure?

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    Try this

    http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1564019&

    I had same problem with my car, had to both bleed coolant and do this. Turns out mine wasn't even screwed in anymore, needed minimal cleaning, put it back in actually screwed it in, and worked like a charm.

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    edit: ^^^ Ah u bugger, you beat me to it by 2 minutes..

    If it is idling that high I can garauntee you that it is not the IACV.. you have a vacuum leak. If the idle jumps irradically, that jumping is caused by the IACV trying to adjust the idle down to its idle target (800-1000rpm). If it is beyond 1000rpm while warm the IACV goes into a feedback loop (jumping idle).

    To test this, disconnect the IACV plug, if it idles higher than 1000rpm, you have a vacuum leak. The probable cause of the vacuum leak is the fast idle thermo valve.

    Here is how to fix/clean it.
    http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1564019

    Main thing is to turn the white plastic screw thingy inwards until it stops turning


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    Thanks for the help guys but its not my fast idle anymore thats the issue.. Warming up it sits at around 1800rpm then drops to 800rpm once warmish.. its the hesitation under full throttle or when you blip the throttle. feels like its bogging down.. thought it might be TPS.. the idle jumping has been fixed.. turns out it was low on coolant and had air in the cooling system.. Now i need to fix the issue with the studder or hesitation.. feels like its running on 3 cyl but the cap/rotor/plugs/wires are all good. and other then that it runs great.. no smoke. or burning oil.. oil is clean..

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    I had hesistation before i cleaned it out as well. When my idle got really bad, it felt like i had no power what so ever. Just an idea dude, it takes 10 minutes, and costs 5$ to do. Hell if you have some cleaner kicking around it doesn't cost anything, whats the worst that happens? you prevent it from clogging in the near future. Then work your way to the others.

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