Drywall question

[Khyron]

I'm drywalling my garage (never touched the stuff before) - when I do a corner, am I supposed to overlap the boards or just have the corners 1/8th apart?

Ie 1 or 2 :

Thx,

Khyron

[benyl]

either or...

you are going to cover it with a corner piece anyway right?

[Khyron]

I dunno - thought u just taped and mudded, and used corner pieces on the outside corners not inside?

Edit: Hrm just realised that pic doesn't show what direction things are in.

Khyron

[Ben]

Overlap, its stonger that way, less chance of a corner crack.

[Khyron]

Ah ok I was worried that there was some reason not to overlap (expansion or something else).

Khyron

[SinisterProbeGt]

I'll Pick option 2 bob


yes overlap is stronger and will make the taping job alot eaiser

[Khyron]

Paint at work, whee!

[Khyron]

Aite I will overlap - thx.

Any other tips for a newbie? I have drywall screws, 14 sheets of 4x8 and the "general" grade mud (garage not worth 3 coats of different muds). I'm taking the tape back for some fibre stuff I was told to get (sticks so you can do all the taping, then come back and do all the mudding later).

U just use a normal circular saw to cut the stuff eh?

Khyron

[turboMiata]

You do not need a circular saw to cut the gyproc. Just score it with a knife and break it along the score. And go for the metal corner beads. Much stronger and resists dings better.

[Kona9]

sweeeeeeeet man you have one of those green cars eh? AAW you are so lucky!!

[1badPT]

Green cars rock, they are faster than red ones I think.

I dunno if you have a countersinking driver bit for your drill or not, but if you do, it makes putting the drywall up a lot easier. GL with the rest of the job

[4wheeldrift]

If you have to do the roof, go to home depot and spend the $25 to rent a lift. It will save you a hell of a lot of time and work. A dremel or jigsaw will make short work of cutting out holes for electrical boxes and the like. If you don't have one, get a drywall rasp. When you score the boards and break them, the edges will be horribly rough and it will be tough to get things to line up. If you use a rasp it makes it a lot easier (albeit a ton messier).

[davidI]

Also, if you're doing the roof I've found it helpful to take a couple 2x4's and make a T-type thing that you can wedge under the drywall to take the weight off. You'll obviously need a helper for this but I found it to be helpful.

[nismodrifter]

heres my tipz...I am a drywall pro now after doing work in our basement

1) don't use a circular saw, regular drywall knife is what you n eed
2) after scoring and breaking the board, you can use your knife to smooth out the rough shit.....don't need anything else
3) get a jigsaw/dremel for cutting out electrical boxes/lights as 4wheeldrift said. makes doing the job 10x easier and faster
4) drywall lift ownz for the roof. its not worth trying to do the whole lift with 2x4 Tees. rent the lift and use Tees in combiination with the ilft to make it real easy. set the drwall iin place, screw it in a few places, remove lift, put a few more screws in and then go onto the next piece. you can come back later and fully secure the piece with lots more screws.. and don't try and do the roof yourself, you will either end up with alot of broken drywall, a shitty job and/or a piece of drywall on top of you while you are left unconcsious on the floor
5) chalk line marker ownz joo for lines etc....


have fun

[/////AMG]

LOL...nice tips haha, I agree with the roof drywall.

BTW overlap #2

[Khyron]

Cool, thanks all for the tips.

I put up 1 piece today just for the hell of it - and found out my garage walls are a touch over 9 feet so lots of cutting extra bits for me. Figured chalk line will be good idea after I missed a stud by a hair. Eyeballing not so good.

When cutting the entire width of the drywall (for my 18"x8' strips), what do most people use for a straight edge? 2x4s are not straight and I dont have an 8 foot ruler.

Ceiling will be a bitch cause the garage door rails are there, and I'm assuming it's more hassle to take them down. I'll probably use the rails to support some of the weight. But most of the ceiling is common (bonus room) so it's already been done.

And now I know what corner pieces are - home depot guy showed me what to buy.

Thanks!

Khyron

[nismodrifter]

Khyron: here's where the mad skills come into play

to cut a straight edge, don't use anything as a "ruler" or straight edge.
First mark your measurement on BOTH sides of the drywall with pencil (ie...if you want to cut a 24" high piece then mark 24" on both sides of the drywall).
Then stretch your chalk line which will connect those 2 marks together and then snap the chalk line. Line should be pretty straight

Then just start cutting on the line. Don't go full depth the first time, go a little bit, then a little bit further the next time once you know that you're line is pretty straight. Go slow and you should have a pretty nice cut.
Once you break the piece then cut off all the extra crap with your knife (use your knife like a scraper like your trying to skim icing off of a cake or something )

[Khyron]

Sweet - I can handle that.

Khyron

[nismodrifter]

just take your time. It's really hard to cut a straight line that is like 12 feet long the first time but it is possible if you go really slow. You're only going to do this job once (hopefully...) so better to do it right the first time and take a little longer to do it than have a pos lookin drywall job.

[xkon]

this is good reading -- Ill be doing my garage come springtime