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Thread: retaining wall and fence at back of house, how to?

  1. #1
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    Default retaining wall and fence at back of house, how to?

    At my moms house we have to put up a new fence, backing onto the alley and kinda slopes down suddenly. How would I build a retaining wall and fence there?

    I would rather build it out of bricks, cinder blocks or something like that rather than wood. Would I just build the wall first, level off the ground then drill the post holes at the higher level? doesn't seem like that would be the most stable.

    any thoughts?

    it's prob a 1.5 to 2 ft. drop off, and I would want the fence to be at least 6' high from the inside of the yard.

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    Allen Blocks. Real simple.


















    Last edited by C_Dave45; 05-24-2010 at 08:59 AM.

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    Last edited by C_Dave45; 05-24-2010 at 09:11 AM.

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    You could use 8"x8"x16" cinder blocks to build your wall, with vertical and horizontal rebar in the blocks. Core fill the blocks with concrete and set your fence post holders in the concrete.

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    Originally posted by sxtasy
    You could use 8"x8"x16" cinder blocks to build your wall, with vertical and horizontal rebar in the blocks. Core fill the blocks with concrete and set your fence post holders in the concrete.
    For a back alley that would be your best way. A suggestion though; dont fill the blocks with concrete. For one thing its expensive and heavy (will cause your wall to sag after a few years) and doesn't allow any drainage. fill the voids with gravel, and then just use the concrete for the posts. The cinder blocks are about $2.67 at HD last time I checked.
    Last edited by C_Dave45; 05-24-2010 at 10:40 PM.

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    Concrete and steel is what is going to provide the wall with strength. Typically a void is left for weeping tile drainage and the wall is backfilled with drain rock. Concrete is not to expensive at roughly $150/yard delivered.

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    Originally posted by sxtasy
    Concrete and steel is what is going to provide the wall with strength. Typically a void is left for weeping tile drainage and the wall is backfilled with drain rock. Concrete is not to expensive at roughly $150/yard delivered.
    ahh...you're right. I keep thinking of the interlocking allen blocks that give a natural back slope for strength. Your way is better.

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    Originally posted by sxtasy
    Concrete and steel is what is going to provide the wall with strength. Typically a void is left for weeping tile drainage and the wall is backfilled with drain rock. Concrete is not to expensive at roughly $150/yard delivered.
    Could you explain this more, I've zero experience in this kind of thing. So a 4x4 post would fit inside the cinder block?

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    Originally posted by nonofyobiz


    Could you explain this more, I've zero experience in this kind of thing. So a 4x4 post would fit inside the cinder block?
    1. Pour a footing, on solid/virgin ground. You can use 2x4 or 2x6 to form your footing. Place rebar appropriately in footing. The footing should we wider than your block wall and should increase in size with a taller wall.

    2. Have vertical rebar sticking out of the footing every 16" (to correspond with every second core of block) If you have a short wall, have your vertical rebar extend the height of the wall.

    3. To add additional strength you can cut out the middle of a row of block and place steel horizontally through the wall and tie it to your vertical steel.



    4. For drainage run a length of pvc perforated weeping tile behind the wall, pick up a couple of pvc 45's and run it through the wall. Backfill overtop of the weeping tile with drain rock.

    5. Core fill all of the block with concrete. Give the concrete a few days to set, then you can bolt something like the ez base found on this page: http://www.strongtie.com/products/co...rs/ezfence.asp
    to the top of the concrete wall


    Have anymore specific questions, let me know

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    sorry for the but does anyone here do retaining walls on the side?

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