Brought my car out from hibernation today, started driving, at 2.5 rpm+ the car starts slamming forward violently, seems like right when boost is about to kick in. Does this sound like a fucked turbo? Car is a KA-T 240SX running a t25.
Brought my car out from hibernation today, started driving, at 2.5 rpm+ the car starts slamming forward violently, seems like right when boost is about to kick in. Does this sound like a fucked turbo? Car is a KA-T 240SX running a t25.
Checked for boost leaks ?
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Not sure a boost leak would cause this type of violent slamming would it?
One of your vacuum lines is leaking or has come off. I had this same problem on my SR. On mine, it was the line that goes into the throttle body. Make sure to check all of them.
sounds like something is leaking? vacuum lines are toast?
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Alright thanks guys. I also forgot to add that there is/was a noticeable plastic burning smell?
like the smell of melting vacuum line?Originally posted by 240SX92
Alright thanks guys. I also forgot to add that there is/was a noticeable plastic burning smell?
ps: get back to work slacker!
for sure a leak if you are unable to hit boost.
Check all your lines, especially all your intercooler plumbing.
Did you happen to hear a pop then massive bogging?
Originally posted by know1edge
Trollception. MGCM used CapnCrunch's troll and inverted that troll attempt into another troll attempt getting ya'll to believe that he's serious... However, maybe ya'll are trollceptioning me into believing that you believe him. What you don't know is that I was trollceptioning ya'll into believing that I believed you believed the OP that believed CapnCrunch.
You're the slacker, you're supposed to be doing work! I'm supposed to sit on my ass till my offer of employments printed hahaha
Hahaha also right as I posted that Eric I thought probably a melted vac line.
Scope, not really bogging, car runs fine from 1k - 2.5k, hits boost then car slams violently forward and backwards, pretty sure intercooler piping isn't the problem but I'll still check that too.
honestly what you are describing is a boost leak.
I thought the same thing, a burning vac line.
Have you checked your vacuum yet?
get off beyond and go do it!
Originally posted by know1edge
Trollception. MGCM used CapnCrunch's troll and inverted that troll attempt into another troll attempt getting ya'll to believe that he's serious... However, maybe ya'll are trollceptioning me into believing that you believe him. What you don't know is that I was trollceptioning ya'll into believing that I believed you believed the OP that believed CapnCrunch.
Haaha I'm at "work", won't be able to check for a few hours.
On first look can't see any vacuum lines burnt or cracked or popped off... If anyone lives in the South and can come take a look, please PM I need this piece of junk running quick.
Oh also, Brand new battery is apparently dead now? If that means absolutely anything. Car tries to turn over and eventually fades to nothing.
MAF failure.
My RB20 did the exact same thing when the wires fell out of the MAF sensor connector due to horrible workmanship of a local "Dream Auto" place..
Bought not built!
Maf? Alright i'll look into that... But now that I think of it Scope I was driving yesterday, and heard a noticeable pop when I stepped on the gas, thought it was a backfire... then hesitation/jerking happened, then stopped, then came back today... But I just did a check of intercooler piping and didn't find any loose, maybe a hole in the couplers? Does intercooler piping boost leak lead to slamming that violently? I've had a pipe bust loose before and it was only a bogged down drive, never slammed where my teeth almost broke on the steering wheel...
It completely depends on how hard you were on the throttle.
I had to trim my hot pipe and it was just too short for my coupler. I went for a test drive and as soon as it hit boost in 2nd I heard a lot pop and almost faceplanted in my wheel. Car bogged and would not go past 40.
check your couplers for any tears or holes, or just pressure test it to make it easy haha
Originally posted by know1edge
Trollception. MGCM used CapnCrunch's troll and inverted that troll attempt into another troll attempt getting ya'll to believe that he's serious... However, maybe ya'll are trollceptioning me into believing that you believe him. What you don't know is that I was trollceptioning ya'll into believing that I believed you believed the OP that believed CapnCrunch.
Think it could be low gas tank with the walbro? They say not to run the walbro on less then half a tank, so think it could be fuel pump not getting enough gas? Pretty low on gas, as I was headed to the gas station when it started going nuts. It also won't start, car turns over slowly, then just fades to where it doesn't crank and just ticks.
Last edited by 240SX92; 07-05-2010 at 03:23 PM.
More, yesterday, and day before, cars battery read 11.7v. Today it won't start, saying it's around 9.5v. So I boost the car, when the terminals are connected SAFC says 11.7v, when I detach them it drops steadily to 10.0, then down to 8.5 while the car slowly starts bogging and dying... Is this an alternator problem or a battery problem? And could this be causing the violent shakes?
that sounds like an alternator problem to me... but i cant see that causing any violent shakes..
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It was alternator fuse. Fuse blew, replaced it, car runs and boosts smooth as fuck. When fuse went no power went to alternator, explains why the car wouldnt start, and when it would and i drove it that first time (when there was a little battery power) there wasn't enough power/spark when boost kicked in, so the car hit a fuel cut off I'm guessing? Basically said fuck off I have no power to boost haha.