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Thread: Stalling Issue

  1. #1
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    Thumbs down Stalling Issue

    okay, well im gonna start off with saying i have a RB20, just had top mount manifold, T3/T4 turbo, external wastegate, and a FMIC installed, i now have a stalling issue when stopping hard car stalls but if i gradually slow down it is usually fine, i did and ECU reset, and was told to remove the PCV valve, and block off opening with a bolt, which i did, still stalls, also unplugged and replugged throttle position sensor, and still stalls, any help or suggestions would be veryy much appreciated. thanks.

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    Its kind of an issue that the nissan maf cars of this era have. When you add a big turbo and a huge front mount, they tend to not like how the air flows, and it throws the MAF off. The only way to get rid of it is to either run a standalone, or to run a SAFC and use the decel air function. I would lean towards a standalone of some sort. If you can get a powerFC for cheap, they have the decel air function as well, and is a much better option than a gay safc.

    and btw, do NOT block off your PVC, or you will pressurize the crank case...not a good idea.

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    seriously ? thats messed up. i was told by the owner of top speed which did all the work that i should block it off, and currently the turbo side of the valve cover dosesnt have a line running from it too the piping like it used too, and the one from other side that would normally run too the PVC valve isnt connected either, both vent too atmosphere, and noticed heater now blows cold air so im guessing there is air in coolant system but i dont think that would make any difference either.?


    as for the stalling issue is there any other things that can be done for now, or for the standalone, what would that run, and im not familiar with SAFC ? lol

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    Ok well for one thing your turbo inlet pipe should be connected to the vent on the valve cover as it was factory. You need to use the suction to scavenge the pressure from the crank case.

    Also, a good standalone will start at the 1000$ mark. Usually you can get a powerfc for around 600-800$. An safc is a super air flow converter. Apexi makes it. It modifies the maf signal before it goes to the ecu and fools it. They are shit but sometimes they work ok.

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    so basically talk to autodream about that stuff ?
    and i should pretty much keep all line from valve cover how they were ? PVC too valve cover then line connecting valve covers, then from there too the inlet ?

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    soo, it stalls only when u depress the brake?
    [IMG][/IMG]

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    Originally posted by b18cr
    soo, it stalls only when u depress the brake?
    pretty much yea, if im driving like really casually and gradually slow down its usually fine, but if im doing say 30-40k n slow down hard it stalls right ou

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    While in neutral tho right?

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    its manual so with clutch pressed in ya

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    also stalls if i rev it to around 3500 and let them drop down to idle again parked in neutral too

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    Yep. Typical. Its because it takes the air longer to get to the throttle body, and the system is not calibrated for that. You lose a lot of velocity in all that piping, and that big turbo housing. Its a typical issue plaguing nissan maf car owners with upgrades haha.

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    Ya that's what I've been told, quite annoying If I knew all this before I woulda Just slammed an rb26 into it

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