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Thread: Cel

  1. #1
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    Default Cel

    2007 mazdaspeed 3 everything stock expect a mazdaspeed CAI

    i was driving, and did wot when hitting the 4-5k rpm it stutters or bogs, or has some sort of hesitation. going through gears 3 to fourth didnt even go into 5. after that happen a CEL came on?

    anyone has a OBD reader? and can help me out?

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    Sounds like maybe bad plugs..check those first.

    Does it blink the CEL during the stumble?

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    It did and now it stays on.

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    Yep sounds like misfire. Start by changing and properly gapping plugs.

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    Originally posted by sr20s14zenki
    Yep sounds like misfire. Start by changing and properly gapping plugs.
    Doesn't that sound like a big boost leak on a MAF car to you?

    I'd double check the charge pipe connectors for tightness, and check the CAI for any air leaks post-MAF

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    Originally posted by Abeo


    Doesn't that sound like a big boost leak on a MAF car to you?

    I'd double check the charge pipe connectors for tightness, and check the CAI for any air leaks post-MAF
    Sppose it could be that as well. I just said the easiest, most overlooked thing.

    couldnt hurt to clean the maf while you are at it.

    do those plugs tho, cheap and good maintenance

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    the plugs been changed two weeks ago,

    and the code is p0300 all cylinders mis fire!?!?
    would like some help on checking on these things, i would buy lunch? or a case of beer? i thought it was just bad gas i filled up on

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    p0300 is random misfire, not all, but can be.

    Often the p0300 is catalyst damaging so if you cannot repair it yourself get a shop to do so before it gets worse.

    If the spark plugs are new and gapped properly I usually start by inspecting the fuel trim and o2 sensor readings. Cylinder Balance test's are good too.

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    okay, here the sticky part. my friend clear the code by mistake. and i still have warranty on the car. should i tell them to have a look at it?

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    I'd put my money on the high pressure fuel pump. Common problem with these cars. Yes, bring it back for them to check under warranty.

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    okay well i am gonna get new gas in, spark plugs and coilpacks..if that all fails ill check out the high pressure fuel pump last.

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    Originally posted by Accord_tunerx
    okay well i am gonna get new gas in, spark plugs and coilpacks..if that all fails ill check out the high pressure fuel pump last.
    It would be cheaper to spend a hour of diagnostic time at a shop than throw parts at it.

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    Here is a test procedure for coil packs, but it doesnt sound like them to me.




    also, make CERTAIN the gaps of the plugs are correct to factory spec, hell, maybe just a bit smaller. It could just be spark blowout from horribly out of spec plugs (i know they were just changed, people make mistakes)

    Also, as mentioned above, checking for leaks, ESPECIALLY after the maf is a good idea....charge pipes do come off from time to time on turbocharged engines.

    if that doesnt check out and coilpacks are in spec, i would get a fuel pressure gauge, and check the fuel pressure.

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    I have a code reader at my shop, swing by and I can check/clear the codes!

    Its the lube-X at 12600 Symons Valley RD NW

    (I wont charge you anything to clear them either, Ill be there at 8 mon am)

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    okay what i have done today.

    i clean the maf all good to go. nothing is loose all hose are tight.

    next will be spark plugs and coilpacks

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    A p0300 is set when the pcm senses a miss but cannot figger out what cylinder is misfiring. A P0300 can be very shitty to figger out at times.
    The instructions that were posted to test your coil is only for testing the primary side. If there was a problem in the primary coil it would most likley set a cylinder specific code. Most coils that cause problems will pass the ohm test. Really your going to need to scope the primary and secondary sides to pass or fail the coil on this problem. napa sells each coil at $217 each so its a pricey guess.
    If I was diagnosing this problem, the first thing I would do is go into mode 6 and see what the misfire counters are doing and go from there. Your not going to get any good live data or really anything from a code reader.

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    so i went out for a quick drive just 10 minutes ago. so under WOT
    around 4-5k rpm it just stutters a little bit, then picks up.

    the code threw with it was like -30 out. some forums say something about water getting into the coilpack? if that even possible. if i can get it running right, i will take it in to mazda to check out and pay that diagnostic test.

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    Originally posted by Accord_tunerx
    so i went out for a quick drive just 10 minutes ago. so under WOT
    around 4-5k rpm it just stutters a little bit, then picks up.

    the code threw with it was like -30 out. some forums say something about water getting into the coilpack? if that even possible. if i can get it running right, i will take it in to mazda to check out and pay that diagnostic test.
    Apparently, water can drip through the hood scoup and on to the coils that will cause a miss on cold start up.

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    yeah, damn eh...i am in the hole for this one lol

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    Sticking open EGR valve

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