Synthetic oil

[heavyfuel]

I don't believe in going too crazy with extended drain intervals. Internals remain protected well past normal intervals, yes. But even the best of the best filters out there will not trap 100% of contaminants. And that is what eats your seals. Trucks with blown rear mains at 100k are pretty common, and one thing they all have in common is that they've had 3 maybe 4 oil changes at that point. I can see where synthetic would have its benefits for higher revving vehicles and engines with tighter clearances, and even then I'd go 7500kms max between changes. But for trucks and vehicles that will never even see 5000 rpm I wouldn't waste my money on synthetic.

Common sense, reasonable intervals>brand/type/weight.

[Zero102]

Originally posted by heavyfuel
I don't believe in going too crazy with extended drain intervals. Internals remain protected well past normal intervals, yes. But even the best of the best filters out there will not trap 100% of contaminants. And that is what eats your seals. Trucks with blown rear mains at 100k are pretty common, and one thing they all have in common is that they've had 3 maybe 4 oil changes at that point. I can see where synthetic would have its benefits for higher revving vehicles and engines with tighter clearances, and even then I'd go 7500kms max between changes. But for trucks and vehicles that will never even see 5000 rpm I wouldn't waste my money on synthetic.

Common sense, reasonable intervals>brand/type/weight.

I think a large number of trucks having failed rear main seals at 100k points to another issue.... When people talk about abrasive particles in the oil and contaminant concentrations the primary concern would be for the engines bearings, not the rubber seals. Have you done oil analysis on these engines? Without that this is anecdotal at best.


A large number of vehicles from a range of manufacturers have been studied through users posting their UOAs on a couple of forums (most notably BITOG) and I think the general consensus on these sites is that extended drain intervals are an overwhelmingly positive thing when the intervals are determined through the correct process.

To add more anecdotes to the pile, I ran 30,000-32,000km intervals on my 05 golf TDI and never had any seal failures as a result, and the abrasive particle concentrations and wear metal concentrations were all well below levels that would be of any concern.

[heavyfuel]

Originally posted by Zero102


I think a large number of trucks having failed rear main seals at 100k points to another issue.... When people talk about abrasive particles in the oil and contaminant concentrations the primary concern would be for the engines bearings, not the rubber seals. Have you done oil analysis on these engines? Without that this is anecdotal at best.


A large number of vehicles from a range of manufacturers have been studied through users posting their UOAs on a couple of forums (most notably BITOG) and I think the general consensus on these sites is that extended drain intervals are an overwhelmingly positive thing when the intervals are determined through the correct process.

To add more anecdotes to the pile, I ran 30,000-32,000km intervals on my 05 golf TDI and never had any seal failures as a result, and the abrasive particle concentrations and wear metal concentrations were all well below levels that would be of any concern.

I know that this isn't the only cause of seal failure, and and thru proper analysis it can be done safely for sure.

I'd rather crawl under my truck every 5000kms and know that I'm good for another 5000, rather than deal with those kinds of hassles tho. We could go on all month about dino juice vs. synthetic and get absolutely nowhere.

[Zero102]

Originally posted by heavyfuel


I know that this isn't the only cause of seal failure, and and thru proper analysis it can be done safely for sure.

I'd rather crawl under my truck every 5000kms and know that I'm good for another 5000, rather than deal with those kinds of hassles tho. We could go on all month about dino juice vs. synthetic and get absolutely nowhere.

Nobody here was arguing about conventionals being just as good as synthetics

This thread was about the necessity of a high mileage synthetic oil, and also about group III vs group IV/V synthetic oils.

You go ahead and climb under your truck every 5000kms. I will be waiting for my warranty to run out then switching to extended drain intervals on my elantra, and I am already running extended intervals on all other vehicles in our family. We each have our own preference and that's perfectly fine.

[heavyfuel]

Originally posted by Zero102


Nobody here was arguing about conventionals being just as good as synthetics

This thread was about the necessity of a high mileage synthetic oil, and also about group III vs group IV/V synthetic oils.

You go ahead and climb under your truck every 5000kms. I will be waiting for my warranty to run out then switching to extended drain intervals on my elantra, and I am already running extended intervals on all other vehicles in our family. We each have our own preference and that's perfectly fine.

Medals are every 2nd Tuesday


"climb" under my truck eh? watch the edit now lmao

[germanmuscle]

Originally posted by G-ZUS
Where can one pick up Rotella or Lubro-moly in town?

There is a guy on eurodrivers.ca that sells lubromoly/motul and lots of other stuff
http://www.eurodrivers.ca/forums/sho...-OIL-Group-Buy

[CapnCrunch]

Originally posted by heavyfuel


I know that this isn't the only cause of seal failure, and and thru proper analysis it can be done safely for sure.

I'd rather crawl under my truck every 5000kms and know that I'm good for another 5000, rather than deal with those kinds of hassles tho. We could go on all month about dino juice vs. synthetic and get absolutely nowhere.

No offense, but you won't really know anything.

I'd rather run 10,000 or 15,000 kms on an oil and back it up with a used oil analysis, than change my oil every 5000 kms and "guess" that it's okay.

They also measure dirt particles, fuel contamination, and coolant leaks (which saved me a new engine on my old Jeep).

[lilmira]

GC is on sale at crappy tire if anyone cares. I'm gonna pick up a dozen to restock.

[lilmira]

Just picked up a bunch of GC. Now I'm good for a year.

FYI, Castrol changed the Syntec name to Edge with Syntec Power Technology (SPT). I checked the back of the 0W30 bottle and it's still made in Germany. It confused the heck out of me.

http://www.marketwatch.com/story/cas...ula-2012-03-14

[JZS_147]

Run Motul 300V

[heavyfuel]

Originally posted by CapnCrunch


No offense, but you won't really know anything.

I'd rather run 10,000 or 15,000 kms on an oil and back it up with a used oil analysis, than change my oil every 5000 kms and "guess" that it's okay.

They also measure dirt particles, fuel contamination, and coolant leaks (which saved me a new engine on my old Jeep).

To each their own. 5000 kms is a safe bet and has been the standard for a long time. Oil change frequency and type preferences are right up there with religion and politics, discussing it won't yield much of anything.

[CapnCrunch]

Originally posted by heavyfuel


To each their own. 5000 kms is a safe bet and has been the standard for a long time. Oil change frequency and type preferences are right up there with religion and politics, discussing it won't yield much of anything.

Toyota and Dodge has both had issues with sludged engines and 5000km oil changes. That's all I'm going to say.

[Zero102]

Originally posted by CapnCrunch


Toyota and Dodge has both had issues with sludged engines and 5000km oil changes. That's all I'm going to say.

Don't worry about responding to him, he will just resort to being insulting when you bring logic to the argument. Just add him to your ignore list and the problem goes away

[Maxt]

A few points, fuel injection doesn't wash down the cylinder
walls like carburetion did, especially under cold starts and running. That alone makes engines last a lot longer as well as oil.
Being an automaker though, you don't want your engines to last forever, just to make it outside the warranty period. Also when you offer marketing schemes like free oil changes for whatever period of ownership, you want that to cost you as little as possible while still making the consumer see good value in it and also promote some kind of environmental responsibility, which is always good marketing practice. So the best thing to do fit all that criteria is stretch the oil change interval out, luckily there are oils out there that can achieve that, but its still not thing to do really for the motor.

[msommers]

Agreed to some extent. I think that's a contributing factor why Toyota recommends me to use 0W20 Toyota oil which is actually a good quality synthetic. I believe it is slightly more fuel efficient as well. But at just under $5/L, I really don't care.

The most bizarre thing however is that in the US, the OCI interval is 10,000 miles, changed from the original 5,000 miles, if you're using that oil. However up here it is still 5,000 miles. I called Toyota about this and apparently because of our "severe conditions" they cannot recommend such a long OCI. I then asked about how different the weather is in Montana but she had no comment.

[heavyD]

Originally posted by Maxt
A few points, fuel injection doesn't wash down the cylinder
walls like carburetion did, especially under cold starts and running. That alone makes engines last a lot longer as well as oil.
Being an automaker though, you don't want your engines to last forever, just to make it outside the warranty period. Also when you offer marketing schemes like free oil changes for whatever period of ownership, you want that to cost you as little as possible while still making the consumer see good value in it and also promote some kind of environmental responsibility, which is always good marketing practice. So the best thing to do fit all that criteria is stretch the oil change interval out, luckily there are oils out there that can achieve that, but its still not thing to do really for the motor.

I don't know really how true that is as the combination of superior oils and engine design has probably more to do with the extended intervals than anything else. Ford added a deep sump oil pan to the 5.0L Coyote which now takes 8L or oil compared to 6L in the 4.6L engines. This enables longer intervals as there is more oil to circulate and helps longevity of the engine.

[sillysod]

I have 250,000km's on my high boost Audi and have done 10,000km synthetic changes since new. Compression tests are still well within specs on all cylinders. That being said I never abused my car. My TDI passat had over 500,000kms on it before my cousin clipped a guardrail with it and sent it to Manchester Auto Parts.

It's not as much the oil as how you take care of your car. My father in law has over 1.5 million kms on his 2009 Volvo tractor and he doesn't run synthetic. The biggest advantage of synthetic is on cold starts. If you plug in, let warm up and let it cool down after, the oil isn't really going to make much of a difference IMO.

[forced_eg]

I came across an s2ki thread where a turbocharger rebuilder recommended staying away from royal purple because of the amount of "cooked" turbos that he sees running that stuff, think theres any truth/studies to that?

[heavyfuel]

Originally posted by forced_eg
I came across an s2ki thread where a turbocharger rebuilder recommended staying away from royal purple because of the amount of "cooked" turbos that he sees running that stuff, think theres any truth/studies to that?

The truth is, IMO, overhyped properly marketed products that come in fancy purple bottles, do not belong in your engine.

[CapnCrunch]

Originally posted by forced_eg
I came across an s2ki thread where a turbocharger rebuilder recommended staying away from royal purple because of the amount of "cooked" turbos that he sees running that stuff, think theres any truth/studies to that?

I know Mobil 1 is probably one of the best (if not the best) for high temp turbos.

I have no clue about Royal Purple.