I won't be doing alot of it, but need a lens that can get the job done, trying to keep the price low as possible and do the trick ideal would be 500ish, but can push the budget up if I really have to
I'm using a Canon crop body and do have a flash
I won't be doing alot of it, but need a lens that can get the job done, trying to keep the price low as possible and do the trick ideal would be 500ish, but can push the budget up if I really have to
I'm using a Canon crop body and do have a flash
i've seen ppl use slower glass with their flash/ring flash with decent results. what seems to be hindering you atm?
18-200? I would hate to have someone puke or spill their drink in my camera while changing lenses.
Tokina 11-16 f2.8 would probably work well for you, kinda past your budget though (700ish)
Last edited by RX-7_TWINTURBO; 06-15-2012 at 12:14 AM.
on events, any lens will do, the main piece to have is a flash that will freeze the movement.
but I agree with a UWA or WA lens for clubs and crowded venues
the kit lens 18-55 could work well too
I just haven't tried yet, but I do know how crappy my 18-55 focuses in darer settings.Originally posted by dragonone
i've seen ppl use slower glass with their flash/ring flash with decent results. what seems to be hindering you atm?
the tokina isn't really too far out of budget, obviously I don't make money with my camera so keeping my expenses low would be ideal.
I might just try my 18-55 and see what I can do with it. anyway.
make sure you either bounce the flash or buy a diffuser if you do not have one yet.
to try though you can just tape a piece of white card stock to the back side, maybe a piece of colored gel might also make for a cool effect.
sorry if i am repeating things you already know
Originally posted by rage2
Ya, I built some crazy ass shit with Lego as a kid. I had a thing for AMC Eagle AWD's as a kid for some bizarre reason, so I spent a lot of time going to the library and reading up on how AWD works in that car. I even hitchhiked to the library once cuz my parents were too lazy to drive me haha. Ya, I'm a nerd.
I appreciate the info, I have a bounce card that Velcro's to the flash, but thinking I should get a diffuser.
anyone use that tokina 11-16 in low light? does it focus well? I love the way my 85 f1.8 performs low light, but the 50f1.8 not so much
the 11-16 is great in low light. but most ppl i see have some sort of walk-around lens + ring flash or flash bracket i.e. 40/50D + 17-50/55 or 5D + 24-70
how about a sigma 30 1.4?
Last edited by dragonone; 06-16-2012 at 04:59 AM.
I sold a Tamron 17-50 non VC on kijiji and the person who bought said he will be using it for night club photography, it does have 2.8 and they are pretty cheap, might work?
Last edited by Clever; 06-16-2012 at 11:27 AM.
That would be my suggestion as well. Really love that lens still. Given your crop body and the distance between you and your subjects, focal range of 20-50mm is probably more than fine.Originally posted by dragonone
how about a sigma 30 1.4?
Ultracrepidarian
30mm on a crop body in a club setting would be an absolute nightmare.
I use to do this sort of thing when I first started out in photography, and a buddy of mine is booked quite often to shoot Venues like Roadhouse and Habitat.
I can tell you 100% that clubs want the angle to be as wide as possible.
they don't care about distortion on the sides of the frame as it winds up making the venue look bigger, and with even the smallest crowds it can look packed when it's not. Some even prefer the look of fisheye (in the case of The Roadhouse).
10-20mm is ideal for a crop body camera.
Good info, thanks for the correction Bukka.
Ultracrepidarian
remember the 11-16 is a screw drive focus, dunno what your body is