what did you do around the house today?

[never]

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@never
Love this thing on so many levels! I'm mad jelly....as the kids would say. Is the one bay closed off the whole way back? Or just part of the way?

Thanks, I like everything about it so far except the cost!

The main floor has three sections…

- the two OH doors open to the working shop that is generally 65’ deep and 30’ wide. Ceilings in there are 22’ and I’ll have access to storage on the 2.5 level with a hoist. That area will have a couple of 2 post lifts, various workstations, welding/fab areas, etc.
- the single OH door is to an area 15’ wide and 65’ deep with the back of that section (11’) being utility room/bathroom and the rest being for car storage with 14’ ceilings. Plan is to add 4 post lifts as needed for storage. I have a large opening between this area and the working shop area that’ll get either a roll up door or a sliding door to contain the mess/dust from the working side.
- across the back of the building is a lounge/bar area that is 45x15 plus an additional 17x11 that goes into the working shop area.

[03ozwhip]

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Shingles going on this week, getting wrapped, but doors/windows/OH doors are still several weeks out. At least with the shingles and wrap, it’ll be mostly sealed.

Attachment 116534

Now that's a garage!!! None of this piddly 36x26 garbage lol

[Ekliptix]

Yea, by far the best garage / man cave I've seen on here. Makes me miss my 30x50ft shop with the same footprint upstairs too.

[Chester]

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Probably makes more sense from the front. It’s a large garage/shop/lounge with working/living area on the 2nd floor and mainly storage on the 2.5 floor.

I didn’t want to match the house finish/style so we went with a barn style for it…additional benefit there being more space at the upper level
Attachment 116537

Jealous

[Pacman]

Need guidance on drilling pilot holes please.

I want to mount some bike hooks onto the garage wall. Bought a 2 x 10 and the plan is to mount that onto the wall into studs (looks like I'll be able to it mounted on 4 studs) and then put the hooks onto the 2x10..

I've got 5/16" lag bolts.

Online suggests a 3/16" pilot hole but is that for both the stud and the 2 x 10? The bro at Home Depot suggested drilling a larger pilot hole in the 2x10 so that the bolt just passes through and doesn't need to be screwed in at all and then screw into the stud.

Thoughts?

[ThePenIsMightier]

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Need guidance on drilling pilot holes please.

I want to mount some bike hooks onto the garage wall. Bought a 2 x 10 and the plan is to mount that onto the wall into studs (looks like I'll be able to it mounted on 4 studs) and then put the hooks onto the 2x10..

I've got 5/16" lag bolts.

Online suggests a 3/16" pilot hole but is that for both the stud and the 2 x 10? The bro at Home Depot suggested drilling a larger pilot hole in the 2x10 so that the bolt just passes through and doesn't need to be screwed in at all and then screw into the stud.

Thoughts?

Lag bolts sound excessive if you're tying into 4 studs, but it's not going to hurt. I bet 8 deck screws would have sufficed. Not engineering advise.
Anyway, the idea of larger pilots through the 2x10 is great, as long as the heads are big enough to still bite into the 2x10.
Any pilot hole is better than no pilot hole, so I wouldn't overthink it too much. Maybe try either 5/16" or 9/32" through the 2x10. But I'd err on the smaller side for the studs. Less than 3/16".

[Pacman]

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Lag bolts sound excessive if you're tying into 4 studs, but it's not going to hurt. I bet 8 deck screws would have sufficed. Not engineering advise.
Anyway, the idea of larger pilots through the 2x10 is great, as long as the heads are big enough to still bite into the 2x10.
Any pilot hole is better than no pilot hole, so I wouldn't overthink it too much. Maybe try either 5/16" or 9/32" through the 2x10. But I'd err on the smaller side for the studs. Less than 3/16".

I had the lag bolts kicking around so figured i would use them. Also have some washers to ensure the head doesn't go through the 2x10. I like your idea on the "clearance" hole in the 2x10 and will maybe go once size down so there isn't a lot of resistance but the threads might bite a bit and then sort out the pilot hole in the studs.

I'm still not sure how I'm going to line all this up and will probably mess it up and miss the stud

[AndyL]

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Lag bolts sound excessive if you're tying into 4 studs, but it's not going to hurt. I bet 8 deck screws would have sufficed. Not engineering advise.
Anyway, the idea of larger pilots through the 2x10 is great, as long as the heads are big enough to still bite into the 2x10.
Any pilot hole is better than no pilot hole, so I wouldn't overthink it too much. Maybe try either 5/16" or 9/32" through the 2x10. But I'd err on the smaller side for the studs. Less than 3/16".

Deck screws will be much less likely to split the stud. I mean those screw in metal drywall anchors with a #8 screw are rated to 60-100lbs each. But in a application like this - the splitting the 2x10 you're applying is the bigger issue, there's some carpentry rule about hole diameter vs distance to the edge to avoid splitting - that's probably the more appropriate concern.

I'd skip the wood and just look for appropriate drywall anchors to keep the ugly down.

[Pacman]

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Deck screws will be much less likely to split the stud. I mean those screw in metal drywall anchors with a #8 screw are rated to 60-100lbs each. But in a application like this - the splitting the 2x10 you're applying is the bigger issue, there's some carpentry rule about hole diameter vs distance to the edge to avoid splitting - that's probably the more appropriate concern.

I'd skip the wood and just look for appropriate drywall anchors to keep the ugly down.

The guy at HD was suggesting these. Maybe this is a good way to go. The negates the pilot hole requirement. Guess it's kinda like a higher end wood screw. Might do the trick.

https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/GRK-Fas...RD773FKJUZIZ9G

[firebane]

Using lag bolts you should be doubling studs not to crack or break them. GRK fasteners will be plenty to hold a 2x10 with hooks and a few bikes. If you were hanging bricks.. might be different.

[msommers]

I kinda ballpark it when it comes to pilot holes. I overlay the drill bit onto the screw and see if it's big enough to take out most of the "core" of the screw, but not so big as to be wider than the threads. I'm probably not explaining it very well, I can draw something if it's easier.

[ExtraSlow]

In softwood lumber, if I want a pilot hole, I would use something several sizes smaller than the above description.

[importracer]

What do y’all use to keep your hardwood floors clean? Vacuum and then wet swiffer? Steam mop? Other type of mop? Open to suggestions and buying something during Black Friday. Thanks I’m advance!

[killramos]

Staff

[jwslam]

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What do y’all use to keep your hardwood floors clean? Vacuum and then wet swiffer? Steam mop? Other type of mop? Open to suggestions and buying something during Black Friday. Thanks I’m advance!

We have the tineco S3 but have FOMO when we see friends with their S5 or S7

[AndyL]

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What do y’all use to keep your hardwood floors clean? Vacuum and then wet swiffer? Steam mop? Other type of mop? Open to suggestions and buying something during Black Friday. Thanks I’m advance!

Shark IQ, and a ilife w400. My robot army is near complete! The w400 is kinda meh - but it does way better than any of the combined mop robots, actually scrubs fairly well; I want the w450, but it hasn't been on a good enough sale yet. Only issue with the mopping robot is it struggles with those transition strips and big grout lines in the kitchen, seems to struggle to get past them.

[nismodrifter]

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Staff

Correct answer. Never be poor etc.

I do however purchase the supplies for the staff, so the answer you are looking for is vacuum first then bona spray mop. Mop and large gallon refills are available at Home Depot.

[pheoxs]

So I had an old humidifier in my house that never worked, the line going to it was caked full of shit and disconnected when I moved in so I always just assumed it was the humidifier itself having issues. Swapped it for a new unit and still couldn't get it to work. Now I've realized the shitty saddle valve in the waterline won't open. I've tried tightening the little nut on it but it doesn't ever seem to flow water. There's also a second capped off saddle valve above it that looks even older.

Any recommendations on a cheaper plumber that can come in and chop 1 foot of pipe out and put a real valve in and just be done with it properly? It's on the inlet to the water heater so there's a union right there to take it off.

[ExtraSlow]

#subscribed. I need something similar.

[Pacman]

Looking for garage floor containment mats. Last thread on this was from 2015. Any updates on where to buy from. Berm style or the ones that soak up everything? Thanks