Do you know what they do to have superior rodent control?
Do you know what they do to have superior rodent control?
Well, 1, they have professional rodent control services with bait and poison boxes throughout. 2) they are a huge square lot with zero vegetation, so my spot is over 100 yards from grass.
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i was also a fan of them when i was stored there. infinitely better then the shitty place i was in up in airdrie that was just mouse heaven.
We now have a portable Traeger for the ultimate in glamping bbq … before that I had a travel q by napoleon that did the job for many years.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Do you guys know if I can have the hot water tank in my trailer replaced only vs an entirely new tank and furnace assembly? The guy we bought our trailer from wasn't forthcoming about the hot water tank, and obviously I couldn't test it at time of purchase but what's happening is the tank, once it fills with water, it spews out rust coloured water from the hot taps. I've taken the anode rod out and use this nozzle thing to spray inside and try to clean it that way. And after cleaning it's fine for a bit but if water sits in that tank for say a day, instant rust water.
I'm hoping I can just replace the tank vs an entire furnace and tank assembly. And if so, suggest where to go or even suggestions how to clean that tank.
Thanks!!!
Last edited by BokCh0y; 07-03-2023 at 01:25 AM.
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From what I've seen, you can't often replace just the tank. Or not simply anyway.
I think your tank is supposed to have a liner, and that liner is damaged. Replacement is the correct fix.
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Damn. Thought so......This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Well thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.
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Might be cheap enough to get the whole thing. Look at "young farts rv parts" for used. Or phone Hobo Camper Country for new. I've never done it but heard it's not bad.
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I've never had a trailer where the hot water tank and the furnace were once piece, replacing the hot water tank seems fairly straightforward. You can even get on demand ones now.
I think (or assumed) he mean the tank itself, and the hot water tank equipment that produces flame to heat the water inside the tank. @BokCh0y is that what you mean, or the furnace that warms the air inside the trailer living space?
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You are spot on @ExtraSlow - the water tank and the attached heater to be clear. Sorry for the poor choice of words.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
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Yeah that is one piece. But they're fairly easy to swap out. You can get on-demand or at the very least get one that doesn't require an anode.
Put on the 6V GC2 betteries and new battery cables.
Cutoff switch.
Didn't realize that the propane hose went beside the previous single battery and there wasn't enough slack to go around or under the double setup. Had to move the regulator down a few inches, lol. This looks redneck as hell but should work good. Probably leave it.
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Crimping battery cables is kinda fun. Although I have repeatedly run out of various supplies. Multiple visits to princess auto for this project.
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It's not perfect by any means. Who knows maybe I'll adjust or tweak it later in the year. This will get me where I need to be though.
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I had to get my hot water tank welded after it cracked over winter. It was a separate piece from the flame part.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
https://youngfartsrvparts.ca/collect...t-water-heater
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Cool cool, thanks for this info as well.
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One of those wires is NOT like the others. Why?This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
A keen eye. It's not strictly required to have a fuse right there as the main power panel has a 40 amp fuse at it. However, since that is located at the other end of the trailer, I wanted a fuse right at the battery. I happened to have some premade 30-amp fuse-holders, so I'm running two of them in parallel on the trailer side of the positive wire off the Cutoff switch.
Its not elegantly done, but it'll work as a last line of defense in case the wiring between the main fuse panel and the batteries gets compromised.
Maybe will find a single 40 amp fuse on thicker wire sometime.
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Great reminder to put a cut off switch on my trailer. Will likely do one on the truck too as it sits as much as the trailer.
The trailer is pretty crucial, as the propane detector alone can drain the batteries in a couple weeks of sitting.
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Yea, i would definitely not do that. That is not how fuses work. It would blow somewhere unpredictably between 30-60a. Also the two what look to be 12ga wires over the half meter are likely undersized for 40a and certainly for 60a. Its janky and you are better off removing it for now until you can get a suitable fuse holder and appropriate wire size.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote