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Thread: RV Camping; Tips, tricks & repairs

  1. #2041
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    Quote Originally Posted by ExtraSlow View Post
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    I've run a pretty big variety of trucks for my "hauling" needs, but never the F150 HDPP. I agree it seems like it would be a great compromise, but it's still a compromise.
    Pros for F150 HDPP over 3/4 and 1-ton trucks: Better unloaded fuel economy, availability of the EcoBoost Engine if you like turbos, a few inches shorter (but only like 4 inches, I think)
    Cons: Smaller brakes, still softer suspension. Will be special order, must get low option package.

    Pricing for the F150 vs F250 varies a lot based on current incentives. Right now, F150 incentives are much higher than F250, so it seems like a huge price jump. That's not always true.

    .
    Whats with the apparent lack of F250s are dealerships? Do most guys just go straight to the 1-ton?
    Last edited by Brent.ff; 02-22-2021 at 11:27 AM.

  2. #2042
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    There's no advantage to the F250. Zero. Unless you live somewhere that does licensing differently based on GVWR, which Alberta does not. We can take this talk to the Ford trucks thread if you want.
    Last edited by ExtraSlow; 02-22-2021 at 11:42 AM.
    Silly people focus on the math.

  3. #2043
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    Quote Originally Posted by ExtraSlow View Post
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    There's no advantage to the F250. Zero. Unless you live somewhere that does licensing differently based on GVWR, which Alberta does not. We can take this talk to the Ford trucks thread if you want.
    But the number is 100 bigger. Surely that counts for something.

  4. #2044
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    To keep it in the RV thread.. am i being dumb and should just keep running my trailer? Main aspect i want for the truck camper is to be able to tow my boat, plus boondock a bit while traveling. Do a lot of fishing up in the Smithers/Terrace region and sleeping in a shitty hotel vs a camper is getting old

    Edit - boat is a tiny zodiac jet, tongue weight cant be more then 50-100 lbs
    Last edited by Brent.ff; 02-22-2021 at 12:16 PM.

  5. #2045
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    I've driven a '97 3/4t with a bed campers and ATV trailer. Not much higher rating than a new F150 hdpp, but it felt sketchy at times. I would definitely go bigger.

  6. #2046
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    I see packages (truck/camper) come up pretty often on Kijiji or outdoor forums. Would it make sense to buy that way and save a ton of cash?

  7. #2047
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    For sure buying used as a package is a good way to test out the concept. Brand new truck plus brand new camper is a really high cost idea.
    Silly people focus on the math.

  8. #2048
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tik-Tok View Post
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    What's the point of having a camper, if you don't use the toilet?

    I haven't had any issues at all with ours. My only "trick" is that last camping trip of the season, I dump the tanks at the campground, then fill both tanks with water and bleach, then drive home so the bleach water can slosh around loosening any solids and sanitize a bit. Then dump all that in (or close to) Calgary.
    Amen to that.

    I bought my motorhome for two reasons:

    1.) To shit in peace, and no longer have to ride my cheeks over a log and fall backwards into 15 lbs of evacuated hotdogs and burgers
    2.) To be able to shower
    2a.) Dude put headers and an intake on it.

    I feel like the people with "no poop" rules also think it's illegal to smoke pot in your own garage.

    Originally posted by teamPRO


    howbout suck my black kettle...

  9. #2049
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    Quote Originally Posted by redline View Post
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    Donít feel bad ... my trailer manual told me to put anti-freeze in the fresh water tank. I rig up an alternative not to do that.
    I was getting frustrated and ran out of time. I could still hear freshwater in the hot water tank with the compressor hooked up and ended up leaving some AF in there; oops.

    Originally posted by teamPRO


    howbout suck my black kettle...

  10. #2050
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brent.ff View Post
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    Whats with the apparent lack of F250s are dealerships? Do most guys just go straight to the 1-ton?
    3/4 toms are useless, they donít have much better payload the 1/2 tons.

    Much better off with a 1 ton if you need more then a 1/2 ton

  11. #2051
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    It's time I finally ditch the tent and get into a trailer and need advice/tips from you guys as I start the hunt.
    I'm looking for a used trailer with a budget of up to $7k.
    It is to be towed by an F150 3.5 EB II with about about 900 to 1000 lbs payload capacity left once my family is factored in.

    1. What's a good rule of thumb for getting the trailer tongue weight from the trailer weight? 10 to 15%?
    2. Should I grab a storage place before I commit to a trailer or will I be able to easily find one the same day I buy a trailer?
    3. For trailers under 30 ft. trailer, does it make a big difference whether it's a single or dual axle?
    4. Do I need a WD hitch? Would it be overkill?
    5. What size of ball hitch should I get? 2"?
    6. Things to look out for when I view them in person? I've noticed some needs the awnings fixed, are they easy to DIY or cheap to get fixed?
    7. What's the approx. cost you guys are paying for insurance?

    Thanks in advance.

  12. #2052
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    1. Estimate 15% of GVWR not dry weight. it will be closer to 13% in the end I'm sure. Factor in gear/beer/firewood in the bed of the truck too.
    2. You can get storage if you aren't picky abotu location. Join me at Stow-a-way!
    3. Don't stress axle numbers, Most are dual except the lightest.
    4. You WILL need a WDH for any trailer over 5000 lbs. it's not optional.
    5. Get the size that your trailer needs. It'll probably be 2 5/16".
    6. buying used, ask about maintenance records and age of tires. If the person doesn't know when the last time the bearings or brakes were serviced, plan on doing those. Tires "age-out" before they run out of tread. date code is stamped in the sidewall.
    7. My trailer is through my house insurance and is an extra $470/year. But it depends on the value of the trailer more than anything else.
    Silly people focus on the math.

  13. #2053
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    Quote Originally Posted by ExtraSlow View Post
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    1. Estimate 15% of GVWR not dry weight. it will be closer to 13% in the end I'm sure. Factor in gear/beer/firewood in the bed of the truck too.
    2. You can get storage if you aren't picky abotu location. Join me at Stow-a-way!
    3. Don't stress axle numbers, Most are dual except the lightest.
    4. You WILL need a WDH for any trailer over 5000 lbs. it's not optional.
    5. Get the size that your trailer needs. It'll probably be 2 5/16".
    6. buying used, ask about maintenance records and age of tires. If the person doesn't know when the last time the bearings or brakes were serviced, plan on doing those. Tires "age-out" before they run out of tread. date code is stamped in the sidewall.
    7. My trailer is through my house insurance and is an extra $470/year. But it depends on the value of the trailer more than anything else.
    Good advice but i will add a bit.

    1. Keep an eye on the available cargo capacity, with a 1000lbs left on the truck, plan for a RV of under 7000lbs
    6.- Signs of water damage, look in all the storage areas. If its has water damage, hard pass.
    - Make sure everything works. All of the appliances, furnace, water pump, latches, door knobs, everything. Test them all!
    - Check the battery age. Probably not a deal killer but it may be worth negotiating a discount if its old. Most people don't take very good care of them.
    - Look at the exterior seals, roof especially. Owners should inspect and repair all the seals/calking yearly.
    7. I also am through my house because it saves me a few hundred a month but definitely look at both options. I pay $1200 for mine but its a palace.

  14. #2054
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    There are certain advantages that can crop up if your trailer is insured as property not a vehicle. Look back in this thread for an oddball situation where it paid off for a beyond member: https://forums.beyond.ca/threads/405...ompany-s-money

    As always, ask your broker.
    Silly people focus on the math.

  15. #2055
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    Anyone have any suggestions for baby gates for bunks? I need to install something to keep the toddler from crawling out. I don't think any of the home baby gates are narrow/short enough to fit the opening.


  16. #2056
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    Really hard to make a good baby jail in a trailer unless you are willing to screw into the walls.
    But a bed rail like this can help accidental roll-outs:
    https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/vikare-...BoCAesQAvD_BwE

    - - - Updated - - -

    I did make a real baby jail in my first trailer, but I screwed into the studs and used Velcro strapping at the other end. Left permanent holes in the trailer, but that one was a "beater" anyway. I had also screwed a block of wood to the wall to be a stepladder for the upper bunk.
    Used this style gate and just let it hang down too low:
    Screenshot_20210226-074935.jpg
    Silly people focus on the math.

  17. #2057
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    Quote Originally Posted by ExtraSlow View Post
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    Really hard to make a good baby jail in a trailer unless you are willing to screw into the walls.
    But a bed rail like this can help accidental roll-outs:
    https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/vikare-...BoCAesQAvD_BwE

    - - - Updated - - -

    I did make a real baby jail in my first trailer, but I screwed into the studs and used Velcro strapping at the other end. Left permanent holes in the trailer, but that one was a "beater" anyway. I had also screwed a block of wood to the wall to be a stepladder for the upper bunk.
    Used this style gate and just let it hang down too low:
    Screenshot_20210226-074935.jpg
    Yah, needs to be a full on gate, he'd be up and over a bed rail in seconds. I don't mind putting in a few small holes, can always put some wood putty on them when the gate needs to come off.

  18. #2058
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    Yeah, preventing a determined toddler takes higher security measures for sure.
    Silly people focus on the math.

  19. #2059
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    Quote Originally Posted by 94boosted View Post
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    Anyone have any suggestions for baby gates for bunks? I need to install something to keep the toddler from crawling out. I don't think any of the home baby gates are narrow/short enough to fit the opening.

    The wife and I have settled on something like this for our toddler.
    https://www.amazon.ca/Munchkin-47046...353147&sr=8-12

    Looking at your photo 36" wide could be too big for your opening.

  20. #2060
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    Quote Originally Posted by 94boosted View Post
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    Anyone have any suggestions for baby gates for bunks? I need to install something to keep the toddler from crawling out. I don't think any of the home baby gates are narrow/short enough to fit the opening.

    Baby gate but the roll style ones. Doesn't need parallel surfaces to mount and nothing to climb on to. Width is also not an issue as long as its within the max.

    Like this: https://www.amazon.ca/EasyBaby-Produ...355322&sr=8-10
    Last edited by spike98; 02-26-2021 at 11:43 AM.

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