Ford Trucks Thread WAS:EcoBoost Thread

[ExtraSlow]

They are heavy load rated P metric. Rated about same as most LT-C tires. Half ton tires are weird.

[zechs]

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They are heavy load rated P metric. Rated about same as most LT-C tires. Half ton tires are weird.

Has to do with tire design in general it seems. I don't know much about engineering a tire, but across the board, it seems p-tires get substantially stronger as the rim size and width go up.

A 245/70R17 p-tire has nowhere near the load rating a 275/60R18 does, even with a XL rating.

You mentioned wanting better ride. I've been doing some research, and apparently awful riding F150's are an issue due to the rear shocks. And damn, does my truck ride pretty bad. Handles big stuff well, but anything small is quite rough.

Lots of forum talk about it. Short answer is to get Bilsteins 5100's or Fox 2.0's according to the internets.

Another consideration for winter specific tires LT vs P is that LT typically have an extra 4/32 tread depth. Funny enough, the price difference between General Arctic Grabbers and Arctic Grabber LT's is the same as the $$$/tread depth. I'm wondering if the softer winter will negate any rougher ride from a LT.

So my question is do P metric ride that much better? I've had 3/4 tons in the past that rode fairly well on LT's of all sorts.

[Kavy]

^ yes P series ride much better when not under load, much better

I have 275/55/20LT BFG KO2’s because they perform decently in the winter compared to a few other AT tires I have tried. I had the Kevlar 20’s before and the BFGs ride harder but feel much better when towing. I was in the same boat, the 20’s gave me a better tow package and load out for the truck so it was the choice. I had grabber AT2’s which also did really well in the winter.

[OTown]

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Can someone ford scan the double honk out of my ford... all I want is to get the mail in peace

I had it done to mine. Also have the mirrors flipping inwards now when i park/lock.

Theres a bunch of cool shit you can do with FORSCAN

[mzdspd]

Are you going stock size for the 20”? Maybe just check the weight ratings, go to a 275/65/20 size and then you get a higher weight rating of 3750 lbs (not sure if you need that much).

I would definitely go 17” for winters though.. so many more options for tires.

[Darell_n]

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Yes. The truck V8 from factory is hilariously neutered to protect eco boost sales.

Its just set up for great torque between 3-4000 revs. I like the 5.0 for truck duty more than the Hemi in my Dodge, which prefers to scream like a sports car engine.

[ExtraSlow]

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Are you going stock size for the 20”? Maybe just check the weight ratings, go to a 275/65/20 size and then you get a higher weight rating of 3750 lbs (not sure if you need that much).

I would definitely go 17” for winters though.. so many more options for tires.

Good ideas here. Much to consider. My actual loaded rear axle weight is not ever going to be more than 5000 lbs. More than some "load rating" I'm more looking for stability under load, which probably comes from a higher inflation pressure like you get from LT tires, not the P-metric, ya know? Although, maybe that's no biggie? should probably tow for a summer and see what it's like before buying heavy duty tires I don't really need.

[mzdspd]

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Good ideas here. Much to consider. My actual loaded rear axle weight is not ever going to be more than 5000 lbs. More than some "load rating" I'm more looking for stability under load, which probably comes from a higher inflation pressure like you get from LT tires, not the P-metric, ya know? Although, maybe that's no biggie? should probably tow for a summer and see what it's like before buying heavy duty tires I don't really need.

My half ton from work had p rated tires and they always had horrible flex when I had anything over 500 lbs in the box.. when I would haul my quad, it looked like they were going to blow out lol. Eventually I got a flat from a tiny screw and just replaced them with e rated ko2s.

If you are towing, I think it sounds like it is worth to replace them with a e rated tire. There is nothing worse then dealing with flats or blow outs When towing from the shitty stock p rated tires. And a good set of e rated tires is really not that expensive..

I’ve been pricing out cooper at3 XLT in 33” size for my 2500 and they are under 900$ (+16% back in ctire money) from Canadian tire.. pretty tough to beat that pricing for a quality AT tire.

[Darell_n]

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My half ton from work had p rated tires and they always had horrible flex when I had anything over 500 lbs in the box.. when I would haul my quad, it looked like they were going to blow out lol. Eventually I got a flat from a tiny screw and just replaced them with e rated ko2s.

If you are towing, I think it sounds like it is worth to replace them with a e rated tire. There is nothing worse then dealing with flats or blow outs When towing from the shitty stock p rated tires. And a good set of e rated tires is really not that expensive..

I’ve been pricing out cooper at3 XLT in 33” size for my 2500 and they are under 900$ (+16% back in ctire money) from Canadian tire.. pretty tough to beat that pricing for a quality AT tire.

Absolutely this. In my ford with weight, you could gently nudge the steering wheel while cruising down the highway and the truck would damn near change lanes on its own. Not a very comforting feeling. E-load tires cured that problem instantly and the truck is now solid and steady as it should be.

[speedog]

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I gotta figure out my tire strategy. I want to end up, maybe in a year or so, with a set of tires that are "mostly" for summer towing, and another set that is for around town in the winter.
So if the truck comes with 275/55R20 "all-season" P-metric tires from factory, and I can buy either 20" or 18" factory take-offs from the kijiji machine, what 2nd set of tires am I buying first?

I mean, I like sidewall, so maybe I want the 18" tires, and maybe, for summer, I want the extra sidewall for driving on rougher gravel roads. And maybe I want E-range load index because I'll be mostly towing, and the E-range tires handle the gravel better anyway. That make some sense to you guys? I know UrbanX can get me whatever I want.

ExteaSlow, you're a smart guy but you done fucked up here.

What you should've done is a Ford F-150 BOGO deal, one kitted out for family usage and one for towing/more manly usage. Best of both worlds and much less hand wringing about which way you could've/should've gone.

[ExtraSlow]

Probably right Mr Dog. 2 trucks > 1.

[speedog]

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Probably right Mr Dog. 2 trucks > 1.

And the less manly one should be a Raptor because they appear to be mostly mall parking lot cruisers anyways.

Hurry, you may have time yet to change up the deal.

[killramos]

Plus don’t forget to V8 swap at least one.

[killramos]

Can anyone walk me through the Ford variable cam timing issue on the 3.5 EB’s?

Buddy of mine has had it come up, months wait to get parts for the fix, and everyone he is talking to says it will just come back again out of warranty next time and best thing you can do is dump the truck once the repair is done?

[Rocket1k78]

^^Its a very distinct rattle on cold start and sometimes its louder on some trucks than others and doesnt last long(a couple seconds or more). Did mine around 40k km and its rattling again now at 68k km...... Havent taken it in yet but it looks like i should since the parts are on back order. I love the EB but this is a major thing for me and im not sure what to think, its a $5k ish repair out of warranty

[killramos]

Yea my buddies dad has a shop and said it can easily be an 8k out of warranty fix.

Total design flaw rather than something that can be fixed.

[benyl]

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Yea my buddies dad has a shop and said it can easily be an 8k out of warranty fix.

Total design flaw rather than something that can be fixed.

I don't know why Ford can't sort this shit out. 5.4L V8s in the older trucks had the cam phaser issue. Guess I'll have to buy a GM V8 next.

[dirtsniffer]

I swear this has been an issue for at least 127 pages. There is probably a reason why the gm thread is so much quieter.

[killramos]

Yea 127 pages was way too much of a TL:dr to me

[Rocket1k78]

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I don't know why Ford can't sort this shit out. 5.4L V8s in the older trucks had the cam phaser issue. Guess I'll have to buy a GM V8 next.

Yeah you'd think they could get it sorted out after this many years. Ive got a little over 30k kms to figure out what i want to do with mine....... Ive already got 1 CP repair done and will be going in soon for another, im at 68k kms now and the plan was long term but i dont want to be paying out of pocket on that repair especially knowing the repair could only last as long as 20k kms.

I was at a party and an old friend and i got to talking and he traded his 16 f150 in because of the cam issue. Ended up with a 2020 AT4 6.2