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Thread: Fork seals

  1. #1
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    Default Fork seals

    Anyone familiar with changing fork seals? Mine are leaking and I'll need to replace them soon! Called around some shops and they are either booked for a while or too expensive . I got a 05 zx6r

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    I will not say it is a "hard" job but it is definantly not easy and you do need some special tools (or the know how to make things work) for driving the fork seals and bushings if needed, have to be very meticulous with the job.

    You best bet is to call around and ask when they could do them if you remove the forks and also pricing, I would suspect most places would still want $125-150 per fork plus materials.

    What kind of prices were you quoted?
    Originally posted by rage2
    Ya, I built some crazy ass shit with Lego as a kid. I had a thing for AMC Eagle AWD's as a kid for some bizarre reason, so I spent a lot of time going to the library and reading up on how AWD works in that car. I even hitchhiked to the library once cuz my parents were too lazy to drive me haha. Ya, I'm a nerd.

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    Yeah, wouldn't do myself.

    If you can take your fork off, and bring it to the shop like that, youd save yourself quite a bit.

    Lots of movements which if your inexperienced may feel like you're breaking your fork/parts.

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    Ah thanks for the responses, im gonna take it to someone who's reputable, anyway I called around got quoted around $300-450, the cheapest place is booked for a while

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    500$ isnt crazy after you add up all the associated costs.

    I had to buy a front stand (80$) plus make/buy my own special fork tools from scratch (prob 80$). Then I proceeded to rebuild the forks in my condo kitchen tabke

    If you plan on keeping the bike for a while, think about changing the internals if they arent up to the task (depends on the bike).

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    As long as everything is well maintained, you should never have to really replace the internals.

    Unless you bought a cheapo bike (with a matching shitty suspension).

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    Certain bikes come with fairly soft springs, it really depends on the model and the rider.

    My SV1000 and VTR's had horrible OEM internals (as most other owners knew) and replacing them was standard at rebuild time. Plus I weigh in around 250lbs with gear and equipment so the stock spring rates were a poor match.

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    Originally posted by revelations
    Certain bikes come with fairly soft springs, it really depends on the model and the rider.

    My SV1000 and VTR's had horrible OEM internals (as most other owners knew) and replacing them was standard at rebuild time. Plus I weigh in around 250lbs with gear and equipment so the stock spring rates were a poor match.

    ahhh that makes sense then.

    If you still have this bike, aren't stiffer springs available?

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    Originally posted by swak



    ahhh that makes sense then.

    If you still have this bike, aren't stiffer springs available?
    Yep, there is a place in the states that makes then custom to your weight and riding style. Was about 100$ shipped.

    Throw some new fluid filled to the PROPER level (as opposed to the hap hazard OEM level that was rampant as discussed in SV forums) and the bike suddenly rode with 10x more confidence.

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    Changing the valving can also make a huge improvement even if you buy an off the shelf (racetech gold valves) solution.
    Originally posted by rage2
    Ya, I built some crazy ass shit with Lego as a kid. I had a thing for AMC Eagle AWD's as a kid for some bizarre reason, so I spent a lot of time going to the library and reading up on how AWD works in that car. I even hitchhiked to the library once cuz my parents were too lazy to drive me haha. Ya, I'm a nerd.

  11. #11
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    Generally forks in the bike will take +/- 3 hours. Out of the bike it's +/- 2 hours. (1 hour each) Some shops use OEM seals, some use aftermarket seals. Usually OEM seals cost a little more. We use both depending on the make - Honda's are always OEM, for the rest we mix it up but usually it's All Balls or OEM whichever the customer asks for. We like All Balls, they are tough seals but still don't use them for the Honda's because the Honda's are so finicky. After the forks are apart, the costs can go up a little ($20-$40 each) if the bushings are worn. Worn bushings allow the tubes to move sideways a little during the up and down stroke and that will give you leaky seals, even if the seals are fresh. So... if the bushings are worn they must be swapped out or you will be doing the job over again within a week or two. While the forks are apart, if the bike has lots of km's on it (50k+) or it's getting a little older (7 years+) it might be a good idea to replace the springs. Over time they sag and the front rides lower than it was designed to. The other reason to put new springs in is if you are a little heavier rider. If you are 220 lbs + then new springs will make things work better for you. We usually use a brand called Race Tech, they come in at around $120 - $150 for a set and you can buy the right spring set for your weight. If a shop is familiar with different spring/oil set ups, then go ahead and change the stock setup but if not, don't go messing around with different stuff. Unless you are going to race your bike and really push the suspension to the limit, I wouldn't worry about re-valving it as you won't really notice any difference on the street. There you have it. Fork repair at a shop 101.
    Last edited by RedlineMS; 04-22-2013 at 07:44 AM.
    "Live on the Redline" www.redlinecalgary.com

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