Hahaha yes you can and have. I've lifted your carbon doors, seen your dogbox and stepped over your dyno. Some day I hopeOriginally posted by Maxt
I can ...
Hahaha yes you can and have. I've lifted your carbon doors, seen your dogbox and stepped over your dyno. Some day I hopeOriginally posted by Maxt
I can ...
Careful, Max has spent a lot of time fostering his image as a lonely hermit without a pot to piss in, he'd hate the truth to get outOriginally posted by Noremac
Hahaha yes you can and have. I've lifted your carbon doors, seen your dogbox and stepped over your dyno. Some day I hope
Cool build thread!
Proper FC, even with the lack of rotary.
Good job!
Jeff
2011 Lexus IS350 6MT F-Sport with LSD
1986 Toyota Corolla GT-S Supercharged with TRD Stuff
1993 Toyota Previa 5MT Studded Ice Race Van
I still think a proper FC needs a rotary but thanks.Originally posted by Jeff Lange
Proper FC, even with the lack of rotary.
Good job!
Jeff
Those transmission to engine bolts were put to use this evening by the way. I feel much better now that I have a full set.
Put the intake manifold and exhaust manifold + turbo on.
The exhaust manifold needs to be modified some more so the turbine housing will clear the strut tower and I need to decide on the final position of the wastegate.
As for the intake manifold, the mounting tabs that secure the fuel rail were interfering with the cps sensors (not required with my ems so I'll make blanks at some point). A little cutting and welding solved that problem though. I even got a free TIG lesson out of it (Thanks Mike!)
looking good as ever, can't wait to see the charge piping and IC all done up
HKS T04Z Bridgeport FD3S
Hopefully that can happen soon. Still deciding on what the plan is for my diff. Once that is figured out I can work towards getting this thing off the rotisserie. Hard to know when that will happen as work keeps on getting in the way.
Sweet build dude!
One day i will own a swapped rx7. When i get bored of the current project, that will be my next.
I've been a rotary RX-7 guy for over a decade, but I still think this is cool. You're kinda SOL for rotaries unless you do your own work anyway so I can see what you mean for reliable high horsepower.
I've kinda been on the fence on the 2jz... I thought the V160 was like unobtanium? Prices I've seen are more than a 13B-T or even some whole FCs. Is there really much cost savings over a 20b setup?
The v160 is less common than the r154 for sure but you can still get ahold of one if your willing to pay. Prices range from 3-5k typically.
As for the price comparison, consider what it would cost for a 700hp ready 20b with a transmission that can handle 700+ ft.lbs tq attached to it... Or just ask Max
That's not as bad as I thought for a strong 6 speed.
I see you've done a 1jz before in an FC, any comments on the weight distribution? I see a lot of comments in regards to engine swaps in FCs/FDs saying the balance will be all off, etc, etc, but I've never driven one. How's it in the real world?
Either way I'm looking forward to this and would love to check it out in person when it's done.
I've done a 1jz, 1.5jz and am currently doing a 2jz swap into an fc.
As far as rotary fc vs jz fc, the jz makes it about 90kg heavier overall. I would estimate that about half of this is further forward than with the rotary. While this is a significant increase and a difference you can feel, it doesn't in any way make the car unpleasant to drive. At the limit I would suspect that a jz swap may make the car more prone to understeer but its been so long since I've driven a rotary powered TII its hard to say.
Some other things to consider in this particular swap that help to offset the weight difference are:
- Pop up headlight delete
- relocated battery
- simplified wiring
- fiberglass fenders and bumper
- no a/c
- no ps
- revised hood latch
- lightened Al hood
I'll be interested to see the corner weights when its all done. I suspect it will be less of an imbalance than one would think.
Any updates?!Originally posted by Noremac
I've done a 1jz, 1.5jz and am currently doing a 2jz swap into an fc.
As far as rotary fc vs jz fc, the jz makes it about 90kg heavier overall. I would estimate that about half of this is further forward than with the rotary. While this is a significant increase and a difference you can feel, it doesn't in any way make the car unpleasant to drive. At the limit I would suspect that a jz swap may make the car more prone to understeer but its been so long since I've driven a rotary powered TII its hard to say.
Some other things to consider in this particular swap that help to offset the weight difference are:
- Pop up headlight delete
- relocated battery
- simplified wiring
- fiberglass fenders and bumper
- no a/c
- no ps
- revised hood latch
- lightened Al hood
I'll be interested to see the corner weights when its all done. I suspect it will be less of an imbalance than one would think.
How you're describing it is interesting me more. Funny thing is I've done everything on that list except I still have power steering and hood latch is stock naturally. Don't know the f/r weight as I'm changing my coilover setup, but it would be interesting to see my current balance #s with the 13B-T.
I see the 1jz clears the FC hood. Does the FC turbo hood clear the 2jz?
Also, I may have missed it but how are you mounting the engine? Tech 2 swap kit or did you do something on your own?
No real updates due to 84hour weeks at work and other projects. It would be interesting to see your f/r weight distribution so I have some data to compare. The 2j clears the hood with some bracing removed and a modification to the scoop. The engine mounts are of my own design which bolt onto the factory subframe and use the metal portion of the jz mount.
Bought some Rotora 4 pot calipers and 2 piece 330mm rotors. Should be an improvement with decent pads.
As a result my nearly new TII calipers, rotors, lines and Porterfield pads are now available. PM if interested.
Fits with a 5mm spacer.
Last edited by Noremac; 11-21-2013 at 07:00 PM.
I played around a bit today with the idea of a v mount setup for the intercooler and radiator. Currently the tb side of the intercooler piping when mounted traditionally is already about 90% finished but I'm still not decided either way.
Any thoughts from those that have ran v-mount and traditional setups?
And here are a few pictures with the front fenders, bumper and hood (with a close up of clearance for those that were asking)
Looking cool so far man! Will just have to make a few custom end tanks for the intercooler eh?
I have a question more than anything. Why are you using that particular trigger wheel setup. As far as i know the ms3x has no issues reading the stock VR sensors?
That is what will have to be done if I go with a v mount setup. Ms3x is capable of doing it that way as well. I purchased the entire harness, ecu, coil kit, injectors, rail and map sensor from a guy who used it with great success in both his 2jz powered fc and fox body:
http://www.youtube.com/user/2JZFC/videos
Its the way he liked to run it most. I'll give it a try and see.