Garage planning and building

[schurchill39]

I am going to be building a garage in the spring so I figured I would start a thread to keep track of progress as I go through the planning and building phase. I'm a first time home owner so I am new to this whole "lot development" thing. Hopefully with the questions and answers found here it will help other beyonders in the same boat as me.

Right now I am just busy planning and budgeting. I live in a narrow lot development area in the south so I do not have much room to work with. My lot is 25.3ft x 111.5ft and according to the Calgary city bylaws I can have up to a maximum of 60% of my lot covered based on the zoning (R-1N).

Basically, less my house, I am working with 57x25.3ft to put as big of a garage on it as possible while not completely getting rid of my yard. I have a 8foot wide deck off the back of my house so really that 57 feet is more like 42.5 ft once you account for the back apron I have to have (6.5 ft I believe)

My question for you guys right now is how big would you go? I am limited to 21 ft wide but I am considering anywhere from 26-30ft deep. Also I've heard at least 10 ft ceilings are the way to go as I'd like the option to put a lift in it later. I have two green spaces in my community so having a "big" back yard isn't much of a concern for me but I don't want to diminish my resale value by getting rid of all of it.

What are beyond's recommendations for size? What are some of the things you wish your garage had, or some things you like about your current set up that you'd like to share?

[AndyL]

I don't think it's possible for someone on a modern city of calgary lot - to say they built their garage too big... As deep as the city will let you go (don't forget they deduct decks from that coverage %)

Wall to wall - you'll barely squeeze 2 cars in there with room between... So depth will be everything to you.

If you're planning a hoist - it REALLY wouldn't hurt to beef the slab up a bit (ie 5-6" instead of 4") See the recent drywall thread - even 4-6" of pony wall - never hurts.

Did some work in one beyonders garage this year - who used a pair of french doors as entrance doors - that was pretty sweet Windows are awesome.

Depending on which community - 10' walls can be problematic, if you find your in an area where the eave height issue comes up - scissor trusses can allow the same (or better) open space above.

[schurchill39]

Good points Andy. My deck is less than 2 feet high so no permit was required to build it and as such I didn't include it in the square footage. However that being said even if it was included I would still have tonnes of (allowable) room to build. As far as the eave height goes according to the by law I can have a detached garage up to 10m high, so lots of room to work with.

I like the windows suggestion and the french doors. My uncle has wall to ceiling windows facing the house and the light it lets in is awesome! (mind you he has a pool for a back yard). I'll definitely be contacting you come build time for garage door suggestions!

What about the reduced back yard size? Do you guys see that being an issue negatively affecting the value of a home?

[SKR]

I see reduced back yard size being just as negative as a garage that's too small. I think it depends on your neighborhood. If it's more of a place for starting out, I'd say the backyard isn't as important because you probably wouldn't be drawing many families. If the next owners might have kids, then you would want a bigger backyard. I have a small backyard and the only time I go in it is to cut the grass.

I would at least build the garage big enough to park one full size truck, which any prospective buyer will probably have at least one, and keep enough useful space. Mine is 21x24. It's okay but it's a little snug. I have to open the door if I need to open the tailgate to load or unload anything. I'd like at least 26'. Probably no more than 28' because then I would just have a bunch of floor space to do nothing with.

[blairtruck]

will have to keep it .60m from property line so that takes 4 feet off your maximum width. not sure on the exact number.
but when i staked garage we would put it .75 instead of 0.60m from the closest Property line. just to make sure not to be the exact minimum.

soffet is 0.45m gutter 0.10 that puts you at .55m or 5cm from property line if you only go the .60m from P/L

[benyl]

30ft deep and 12 ft ceilings. With such narrow width, I would want more head room for storage of winter tires, etc. 10ft is pretty minimal with a lift. You will be hitting your head all the time if you park a project car on the lift and your daily underneath.

Also, make sure you go with an 18x8 door. Bigger the better for easy clearance.

[Rarasaurus]

If you build with a fireproof side you can go right to the property line, just no overhang or eaves on this side. You just have to order your trusses so they drain towards the house and alley. This isn't so bad and mostly just adds the extra cost of the fireproof drywall.

With your width I would look at that so you can still have room on the other side for a bit of a path. It would also allow you to go wider than 21 potentially.

[CanmoreOrLess]

As mentioned, large enough for a full sized truck, this is Alberta. It needs to be large enough to open a hatch or truck tailgate. Think about what you are going to do with the floor, mine is polished (big mistake) and slippery as hell in the winter. You can't get enough windows really, it is your man cave; make it livable. It would be solid to have an loft/office/suite above the garage, there are a few on one street in my area, someone had the right idea when building. There I blew the budget.

[88CRX]

Don't do windows if your not gonna heat or ventilate the garage. You'll have moisture problems all winter. Also windows take away from wall storage space, just do lots of lights and your set.

We built a garage with the builder (just around corner from you) and its 20' wide by 22' deep. It's not huge by any stretch but it's not small. Have a civic and element parked in there and there's enough room for a work bench and storage cabinets and you can walk around all side of both cars. 20'x24 would be ideal.

[88CRX]

Also for height we're 8' plus a 1' concrete frost wall and there's not even enough height to hang tire racks above the cars or storage cabinets. Another 2' height would be so much better, could have meaningful shelves running down the side walls then.

[OU812]

run PVC from house into slab and 90 up so you can run power/cat6/cable etc easily

[benyl]

Originally posted by 88CRX
Don't do windows if your not gonna heat or ventilate the garage. You'll have moisture problems all winter.

Moisture problems are from a lack of draining. Even with heat, you will have condensation on the windows. Put in a floor drain.


Your garage is getting more and more expensive.

[schurchill39]

Originally posted by benyl
30ft deep and 12 ft ceilings. With such narrow width, I would want more head room for storage of winter tires, etc. 10ft is pretty minimal with a lift. You will be hitting your head all the time if you park a project car on the lift and your daily underneath.

Also, make sure you go with an 18x8 door. Bigger the better for easy clearance.

Theres a guy right down the alley from he with a huge garage and I've been meaning to go pick his brain about it (or head down there in the dark with a tape measure lol). Definitely going with high ceilings, but I don't want it to take away too much from everyone else's lot.

Originally posted by Rarasaurus
If you build with a fireproof side you can go right to the property line, just no overhang or eaves on this side. You just have to order your trusses so they drain towards the house and alley. This isn't so bad and mostly just adds the extra cost of the fireproof drywall.

With your width I would look at that so you can still have room on the other side for a bit of a path. It would also allow you to go wider than 21 potentially.

I read about this after I posted and thought it was a great idea. I saw a few houses in the neighborhood tonight that have done this on my walk tonight. The only problem I see coming out of this is that if I build before my neighbors its going to be tight for them to put on siding and eliminates the chance for them to go as big (mind you I would rather I went bigger as opposed to them).

Originally posted by OU812
run PVC from house into slab and 90 up so you can run power/cat6/cable etc easily

Did that this summer before I laid sod. 28 inches deep and I ran 4 or 5 fishing lines though it to make things easier. Just need to figure out if I can run my nat gas through there as well or if I need to trench that in separately.

Originally posted by benyl

Your garage is getting more and more expensive.

I have a dollar figure in mind and I plan to do most of the work myself minus the concrete pad so I think even going oversized I should be able to stay within that range.


Any other opinions on the smaller back yard?

[gyromonkey]

I had almost the same situation, mine is 20x24, I wanted 24x24 but due to a utility right of way on my corner lot they would not allow me to go wider. I have a couple questions and suggestions, I have built dozens and dozens of garages and lucky the last one i did was mine.

Are you planning on doing a Slab on grade pad? with the typical 3-4" slope? or are you going to be doing 4' frost walls? If you opt for slab on grade make sure you budget for a 8" curb wall around the perimeter, that way you don't have to worry about water leaking through gap below the exterior walls and concrete, I believe theirs even a Tread about a guy have moisture issues and more then likely the builder did not do curb walls due to cost,

What are you planning to run out in the garage? what ever it is double it, and make sure you run a Sub panel out to it, don't just run a 15amp out to the garage and hope it will be enough. all and all if your building a garage do what makes you happy but keep in mind the next buyer is more then likely upgrading and a sweet garage always helps.

Here are a couple things i did to my garage 4 foot frost walls, Vaulted ceilings 16' in the center, two 4x4 skylights for natural light, 8 ceiling lights and 6 wall mount light rough in's , 40 amp sub panel, 3 2" underground conduits, 220 for welder, 16 plugs, 5.1 stereo, 2 wall mount TV locations along with phone and internet, security camera's, Gas ceiling heater, Wifi thermostat so i can adjust my garage temp from anywhere, Roxul insulation, taped and painted, Side mount garage opener with a 8 foot by 18 food door. and a bunch more, it sounds crazy but I worked for the builder at the time and they allowed me to build my own dream garage the only thing I have not completed is the VCT tile flooring but to replicate this set up your looking at around 35-40g's This is my man cave i guess even though my house is just as extreme and I live alone lol

[HomespunLobster]

Can't you get a petition signed by your block allowing you to do more than the 60% land usage for a larger garage on your property?

[schurchill39]

gyromonkey I like where your head is at. I'm hoping to keep it around the 20k give or take a buck so maybe not quite as extreme as that.

I haven't figured out what I'm going to do with the concrete yet as I still have a lot to learn about it and how it SHOULD be done but I definitely want to do curb walls. I used to live in a house where the garage did not have them and it had some major water leakage issues.

I will want one if not two 220v for a welder and/or a larger air compressor for sure and it will be heated via natural gas. Lots of lights and tons of plug ins all the way around. I have 4 inch conduit in the ground so that should be more than good to bring across any wiring I'll need.

I was talking to my neighbor last night and he wants to build up to his property line as well. That's where we got stumped because then how do we side both garages? My guess is that because mine will be build first it will get siding as per normal, then when we build his we side that wall before moving it into place? Seems a little jerry rigged but then again I am new at this so any experienced builders suggestions are more than welcome!

[ExtraSlow]

If you both want to build to the property line, why not do a party wall like they do in those duplex infills (sorry, semi-detached). Seems like a good option.

[ercchry]

Originally posted by HomespunLobster
Can't you get a petition signed by your block allowing you to do more than the 60% land usage for a larger garage on your property?

i believe the bigger issue even if you had the land is that you can only do a max of 75 square meters

[frozenrice]

Just my .02.... Is there any thought about a walkway from the yard to the alley? Might want to rethink building up to the property line if you that is something you want/need. You can see what your other neighbourmis planning. Maybe build up to the property line on that side and leave 3-4ft on the other side for your neighbour to build his up against your property line. You get a walkway and he has room to do his siding.

[blairtruck]

ive surveyed alot of garages in the 12 years as a land surveyor. there is also a building pocket which you are allowed to build within. usually has the .60m all around the property.
also if you really want to build right to the property line the size of your lot can change over years slightly. your property report might say your lot is 15m even for example. then landscaper knocks out your property pin and your neighbors. Now in order to define your property line when you sell a new RPR is needed. you would have to go to the next closest property pin. could be a few lots could be a block before you find one. then you take the distance between the 2 property pins and bigger or smaller. never the exact number cause we work in Millimeters in canada. you have to proportion the distance for all lots. your lot could shrink/grow 5cm. even more in Old neighborhoods. The Property pins in the ground govern your lot size not what is says on paper. we put property pins in with GPS +/- 2cm error right off the bat.

i would always leave 10cm buffer room to property line just incase. might not matter now. but say you build on P/L and 10 years from now a new neighbor does an rpr and finds out your garage sits 3cm into his lot. might mean nothing. could cause some problems. seen it happen. not so much with garages. but People always build their fences without surveyors. then neighbor complains its in the wrong spot. gotta get a surveyor to verify. might as well get them the first time.