Anyone think they could get this out? I'll pay $100.
Bottom left.
Anyone think they could get this out? I'll pay $100.
Bottom left.
Z32 TT
1996 Integra - winter beater with studs - RIP (deer)
2002 WRX - to be sold
2010 sti - winter
Mind sharing where? I know you said bottom left but I can't see it.
Looks like the header bolt. No penetrant?
ej25 DOHC circa 1998-2002
bottom left cam cover bolt...
I can do it, but it would have to be in a shop type environment, and on that car and in that location its probably best to pull the engine out, in order to prevent any type of damage.
Yea EJ20. Its right to the right of the bottom most half moon plug. It's sheared off inside so its recessed. Yea I'm planning to pull the engine this weekend if nobody has any better ideas than me heh.
The little light is shining right on it. Bottom left cam cover bolt, sorry.
Last edited by g-m; 04-22-2015 at 10:34 PM.
Z32 TT
1996 Integra - winter beater with studs - RIP (deer)
2002 WRX - to be sold
2010 sti - winter
if I'm looking at right spot, soak it with penetrant, then heat the shit out of it, then use vice gripes. Again if I'm looking at right boltOriginally posted by g-m
Anyone think they could get this out? I'll pay $100.
Bottom left.
Think I c one now, u may be forced to drill it out which I think u may want to pull it as mentioned. There is the speciality bits that u drill pilot hole for them then they screw in to back out
The biggest issue is the soft aluminum around it. You could always try and drill into the bolt and then easy out it but I hate trying to get any bolts out of aluminum.
100% agree. Even pulled I'll have a hard time drilling into the bolt I think. I'm thinking of going to get some bits for drilling steel and I'll have to figure out how to keep it centered more or less. I think easy out is the only way but even with my right angle attachment there isn't room to go perfectly perpendicular.
Z32 TT
1996 Integra - winter beater with studs - RIP (deer)
2002 WRX - to be sold
2010 sti - winter
You may end up having to screw up the hole then putting a heli-coil in.
I have reverse cobalt bits from snap-on that make this job easy, so long as you can get a good center punch. but again the engine needs to be out.... the frame makes it next to impossible to get a bit in there, even with a right angle drill.
hold a slightly larger nut over the hole, aim your trusty mig welder at the bolt, build up weld until u can fuse to the nut. allow to cool, hit with penetrant, slowly turn it out.. repeat as needed. the heat from welding will cause the bolt to shrink slightly as it cools, freeing it up
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Last edited by Rat Fink; 12-04-2020 at 10:03 PM.
Thanks for the 14 years of LOLs. Govern yourselves accordingly and avoid uppercut reactions!
Ok so I've tried and broken off an extractor and tried again and I'm done on it now.
Access is much improved
And now I'm giving up. If anyone thinks they can get it out I'll pay you, otherwise the engine is going to a mechanic to try to get it out. If they can't do it I'll take the head off and bring it to a machine shop but I REALLY don't want to do that.
Z32 TT
1996 Integra - winter beater with studs - RIP (deer)
2002 WRX - to be sold
2010 sti - winter
Just a simple valve cover bolt?
Damn I would have just added extra sealant around that area and left it alone. Looks like there are enough bolts around the area to hold a good seal.
But if you still have to proceed for other reasons - now that the extractor is in there you going to need to strip the head and take it to a machine shop where they would use something really exotic to deal with it (perhaps resulting in metallizing) - which might be cutting it close for a used/reworked head on the market.
Last edited by revelations; 08-29-2015 at 05:05 PM.
do you have a corded drill, ill be more than happy to get that sucker out of there for you.