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Thread: Protege Build thread 2015 (Tons of pics!)

  1. #61
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    626 Master cylinder upgrade. The stock protégé MC is 15/16" diameter. With the BBK, an upgrade is in order. The master cylinder found on the Mazda 626 and 929 (V6 models with ABS) is a 1" unit. 1/16" doesn't sound like much, but remember surface area increases exponentially in a circle. Given the math, the stock MC has a surface area of 0.69 square inches. The 1" unit has a surface area of 0.79 square inches. A 15% increase. The master cylinder is a direct bolt in, however new lines will have to be made as they now exit on the drivers side of the MC. This has the added benefit of a more stealth look as well. Stock shown on right, 626 on left. One from an automatic will also work, but will not have the nipple on the reservoir for the clutch master cylinder, so you will need to swap the Protégé one over.







    Bending and flaring the lines was a challenge. They must make an immediate turn to avoid the space where the battery resides.



    With the intake side catch can mounted, I could plumb up new lines. A 120* off the can into a 90* at the valve cover worked great and gave lots of clearance for the intake pipe. Clamped it to the fuel line using a -8 and -6 separator.



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  2. #62
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    Gosh I wish I had your patience....haha...
    ...@therealarifjina...

  3. #63
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    Damn

    1994 Mustang - SBF swap in progress

  4. #64
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    Looks great, super clean engine bay!
    _____ASP______

    current ski quiver:
    park, all mtn 181 ON3P Kartel 98
    park,all mtn: 181 Armada AR7
    big mtn, pow: 185 Armada JJ

  5. #65
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    Thanks guys!
    ...

  6. #66
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    That harness is sick, such a clean build!

  7. #67
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    Sorry it's been awhile since the last update.

    Had to re-fab up some intercooler pipes. Didn't like the way they were before. Added in and repositioned some stuff, tacked them all up and they went off to legendboy for finish welding.





    With the pipes back and given a fresh coat of gloss black, they were installed.









    Cut down the washer neck, labeled it for meth, and ran the methanol line through the frame where I could and then used P clamps to secure it on the underside of the frame rail for a stealth look.



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  8. #68
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    Picked up the last remaining new Corksport 80mm Protégé exhaust. I already had the 2.5" P5 one, but wanted to upsize for more boost, so 3.1" will help in that regard. Unfortunately, they never made the 80mm for the P5, so the muffler section will need to be shortened by 4".









    Notice the bullshit restriction where it's choked down to 2.5" at the front of the pipe. I understand WHY they did this (to mate with the stock tiny downpipe) but this just won't do for me... I will be using a stainless V-Band. Bullshit restriction removed:





    With the exhaust temporarily hung, I could get to work on a new downpipe. Picked up some mild (alum) steel bends to work with, as the pipe will be ceramic coated when complete. Started by welding a 90 to the flange. I can get all 4 allen head bolts on there, but will likely still dimple the pipe slightly.



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  9. #69
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    Now, I want to start by saying that I am a shitty welder. I have an el-cheapo Mig, but it's good enough to tack shit together and I'll have legendboy TIG it once complete. After dicking around with different bends, I decided I didn't like the 45 on there anymore after the 90. Decided to use the other half of the 180, offset about 30* rearward. Will allow lots of clearance for the turbo oil return as well. Welded in a flex pipe, which clears the windage tray bolts by about 1/2" (its TIGHT under there!) and called it a night.







    Now I had to decide what to do next to mate up with the CS exhaust... It's not a "straight shot" since I cut off the smaller piece, you can't come straight out of the downpipe and into the space where the midpipe goes without hitting the windage tray or frame crossmember. I fucked around with this for an hour or so, and finally decided on two 30* bends that I cut. It allowed me to move the exit both vertically up, as well as laterally to correct for any side to side position error in the midpipe. I am pleased with how it turned out.









    Last edited by Maxx Mazda; 04-29-2016 at 09:47 PM.
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  10. #70
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    With the main downpipe finished, it was time to turn my attention to the wastegate dump tube. No, I am not going to run a screamer pipe. A properly sized exhaust will not gain anything with a screamer pipe, and I hate the noise they make. I'm sorry I didn't take many pictures as I was cutting and welding, but the part where it joins back into the main pipe was a COCK to try and cut properly... I was dealing with about 16 different angles, the rounded edge of the planer came in handy!

    Couple shots of the finished piece:











    And installed in the car. The turbo setup will need to go in first, THEN the radiator, and finally the downpipe. With the fan shroud now affixed to the rad permanently, it no longer slides straight up.





    All told, I have about 20-25 hours into that downpipe. It's the first "major" fabrication project I have taken on by myself, I'm pleased with how it turned out. Off to legendboy for finish welding tomorrow, and then I can have it ceramic coated when it's back. That's all for now!
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  11. #71
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    Just went through this whole build just now. Fantastic job! Can't wat to it completed
    Honda/Acura guy

  12. #72
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    Thanks! Moving this weekend but should have it up and running by the end of May!
    ...

  13. #73
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    That downpipe picture sequence is better than anything that Kanye ever put out. I went through it twice already, and I might go though again more slowly once the wife is asleep and I can have some privacy. Very erotic.
    Quote Originally Posted by killramos View Post
    This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
    You realize you are talking to the guy who made his own furniture out of salad bowls right?

  14. #74
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    Well, after a long ass winter with the car in hibernation, it's time for a long overdue update!

    If you remember, the Corksport 80mm exhaust for the Mazdaspeed sedan needed the final muffler section to be modified. Here we can see it compared to the P5 specific unit for comparison:



    With 4" removed from just in front of the can, here is the alignment with it just resting in place. As you can see, we need to modify the angle at which it meets the pipe. Also notice how the can must be rotated counterclockwise to keep the mount parallel while still keeping the logo perpendicular to the ground.





    With the measurements taken, and everything "dry fit" I dropped the system off with legendboy for finish welding. His TIG skills are out of this world! Especially on stainless, looks like it came that way from the factory.









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  15. #75
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    Rather than ruin the muffler by moving the hangar mount, I elected to move the mount on the chassis of the car itself. After taking measurements, the stock mount was removed, the frame ground flush, and re-welded on in the correct place. Some "rocker guard" was applied to ensure that it would never rust, and we have a factory looking mount.



    The finished exhaust installed and tightened down using all new Corksport hardware. I decided to keep a little more space between the muffler tip and the bumper this time, as the original system caused the bumper to melt whenever the anti-lag was used.



    A few shots of the finished system, bolted up from front to back. The V-Band flange is amazing. Takes a bit of work to make sure its lined up perfectly, but it will provide an excellent restriction-free path for the exhaust and it looks clean as hell too. Next step is to remove the downpipe and send it and the hotside turbo parts out to be ceramic coated .











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  16. #76
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    This is an extremely hardcore, very details-intensive build. I love it.

    Anti-lag

    I'm really surprised to see that 323 GTX transmission parts are stronger than anything since those cars are sort of infamous nowadays for eating unobtanium transmission parts.

    How deep is your radiator shroud?

    I had a buddy build a custom radiator shroud that was right up against the radiator (no dead zone between the rad core and the fans) and it ran extremely hot because it didn't have enough room for the fans to 'reach' all of the core, just in a close radius of the fans themselves.

    From the pictures it looks like you should be okay, especially with a pusher fan setup like that.
    Last edited by toastgremlin; 03-23-2017 at 06:38 AM.

  17. #77
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    Deep as in how far do the fans sit off of the actual rad? Off the top of my head, they're about 1-1.5" off the rad. There's plenty of room behind the shroud for air to circulate before being pushed through, if that's what you mean.
    ...

  18. #78
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    With the exhaust system finished, I could focus my attention on finishing the cooling system. I played around with a number of ideas for weeks before finally deciding on what's pictured. Because I had to flip the thermostat housing upside down to make room for the downpipe, and could no longer use the straight neck thermostat housing that I was running before, my options were limited. Either go up and around by where I have the oil filter mounted, and in front of the downpipe into the radiator, or go THROUGH the downpipe and have a straight shot into the rad. I went with option 2 because after mocking up both, it looks way more sano and inconspicuous, and the hose stays a lot further from the downpipe than it would have in front. At its closest point, there is still 2.5" between the downpipe and the hose, which itself is good for a few hundred degrees. Once the downpipe is ceramic coated, it won't be a problem.

    In order to keep the requisite flow for how hot this thing is gonna be running, I had to go with -16AN fittings. Jesus those shits are NOT cheap! After cutting and planning a spare stock water neck, I had Legendboy use his impeccable skills to weld on a fitting, as well as onto my no longer available PWR radiator. Didn't think twice about trusting him with it, he does amazing work. He even turned down the hex-head on the fitting to a round one for a nicer look!









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  19. #79
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    With the fittings welded up, I could focus on building the line. Since it's so damned expensive, I made sure to measure twice and cut once. Pleased with the results. While it doesn't stand out, that's exactly the point. Looks like it's supposed to be there. As you can see, plenty of clearance at it's closest point. Hand is for scale (banana not available.)















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  20. #80
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    As part of the MP3 parts car I snagged, I had a pewter/black Nardi wheel that looked like shit. I cleaned it up, and decided I'd try my hand at dying the leather back to the stock color. Prep is EVERYTHING. I was able to find leather dye at a local craft shop, and the "pewter" color was a perfect match! The only downside, is that wherever you dye the leather, there's no way to keep the stock pewter color on the stitching on the black leather. While it's not 100%, I figured I had nothing to lose and worst case I'd chuck the wheel out, or give it away. I'll keep it for now until I throw a JDM Nardi on it this winter. I just want to drive this thing before the snow flies.

    Start by cleaning the wheel, stripping all the oils and sanding down the rough leather:





    Once the wheel is dyed and properly cured, the leather once again looks rich and soft:



    Mounted back in the car to showcase the excellent color match. Those are stock colored radio bezels and center cupholders.



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