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Thread: The Bicycling Thread

  1. #1221
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    Every time I google map a ride home it tells me to turn onto bow trail from 45th street. Because I live around here and have ridden that route I know to go 1 more block down onto spruce drive with a dedicated bike lane. These are the flaws I think google maps has. A bike would get killed on bow trail yet google maps tells me to take it. Which I why I have trouble trusting it

    I’ll be following google maps and end up on a “bow trail” bc I don’t know any better. Haha
    Last edited by 997TT; 07-10-2018 at 08:07 PM.

  2. #1222
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    So what is the best way of upgrading to faster gearing? Change cassette? Change front ring? I have to double check but I think on my norco search the fastest combination is 50/11, it’s not quite enough I’m finding, did a ride recently and I was maxing it out constantly on the flat.

  3. #1223
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    Quote Originally Posted by J-hop View Post
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    So what is the best way of upgrading to faster gearing? Change cassette? Change front ring? I have to double check but I think on my norco search the fastest combination is 50/11, it’s not quite enough I’m finding, did a ride recently and I was maxing it out constantly on the flat.
    change 50/34 chainring to 52/36 or 53/39, you should be able to re-use your existing crank and just swap the chainring.

    if you can max-out 50/11 on flat you must have some athletic legs, I only use this gear combination on descent.
    Most of my flat ride is on 50/15-19

  4. #1224
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    Quote Originally Posted by J-hop View Post
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    So what is the best way of upgrading to faster gearing? Change cassette? Change front ring? I have to double check but I think on my norco search the fastest combination is 50/11, it’s not quite enough I’m finding, did a ride recently and I was maxing it out constantly on the flat.
    The circumference of 700c tire is about 2100mm. With 50/11 gear, each revolution of your crank travels 9.5m. Even with a cadence of 80rev/min, your speed is 45.6km/h. With a cadence of 100rev/min, you'll be at 57km/h. That's not really slow for cruising speed. Sure you can spin out on descent, don't forget that you'll need your granny gear to go back up.

  5. #1225
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    That’s some serious speed/power if you spinning out on 50-11 on flats. Kudos to you.

  6. #1226
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    Turn on the Bicycling layer on Google maps if you haven't already... It's not as complete as the City of Calgary pathways and bikeways map, but it's a good start (and much more user friendly).

    Example:
    Name:  Untitled.jpg
Views: 112
Size:  84.4 KB
    Originally posted by max_boost
    Hey baller, any problem money can solve is no problem at all. Don't sweat it.

  7. #1227
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    Quote Originally Posted by taemo View Post
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    change 50/34 chainring to 52/36 or 53/39, you should be able to re-use your existing crank and just swap the chainring.

    if you can max-out 50/11 on flat you must have some athletic legs, I only use this gear combination on descent.
    Most of my flat ride is on 50/15-19


    You will also likely need a longer chain if you go from 50 to a 53.

  8. #1228
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    Quote Originally Posted by J-hop View Post
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    So what is the best way of upgrading to faster gearing? Change cassette? Change front ring? I have to double check but I think on my norco search the fastest combination is 50/11, it’s not quite enough I’m finding, did a ride recently and I was maxing it out constantly on the flat.
    I have a Sram Red 53/39 crankset if you're interested! Haven't got around to selling it yet.

  9. #1229
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    Math doesn't add up - 100 RPM is 57km/hr with a 23c tire as Charles mentioned. Looks like the Search (now) comes with a 48-11 and 32c tire resulting in 56km/hr at 100rpm.
    When you say you're maxing it out what is your actual cadence? 56km/hr on flats is hella fast even with a serious tail wind. I'm guessing either you're on a slight downhill (think Bragg Creek to the traffic circle with a tail wind for example) or you might be having issues hitting a high cadence. For reference - my average cadence during an FTP test is 107RPM. I can comfortably sit at 105-110RPM for longer periods of time (62km/hr on your bike).

    Echoing what others have said - upgrade the big chainring if you need to. You'll likely have to adjust front derailleur also. Cassette upgrade won't help your top speed as the smallest cog on standard road cassettes is 11T.

  10. #1230
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    Thx. Didn’t even notice that layer. I’ve added it and will use google when appropriate and deviate if I feel a longer route is a bit safer

  11. #1231
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    Great points I think it definitely could be a cadence ‘issue’ (I look at it as more of a difference). I was doing some MAF testing yesterday with a trainer and my heartrate was always way lower with a harder resistance and lower cadence than a much easier resistance and a higher cadence. I’ve always tended to be a bit of a grinder, my main focus in training until now has been powerlifting so maybe it’s a carry over?

    This is the second ride where I’ve felt I could go way faster but the cadence increase pushes me out of my optimal MAF zone. It’s the same way with hill climbs, if I go to an easier gear and bump up the cadence I burn out way faster than low cadence and a tougher gear

    When you say 23c/32c isn’t that tire width? Or does it also relate to sidewall height?
    Last edited by J-hop; 07-11-2018 at 12:11 PM.

  12. #1232
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    I think high cadence is something that you have to train your body to do. Your heartrate will go up initially if your body is not tuned for such cardio exercise. Eventually it will adapt. My cadence was 60s once, nowadays me grinding up the hill will spin faster than that. My average cadence is probably high 80s-90. Our bodies are all different but I think your gearing is more than adequate, you just need to bring up your cadence a bit.

  13. #1233
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    Quote Originally Posted by 997TT View Post
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    Thx. Didn’t even notice that layer. I’ve added it and will use google when appropriate and deviate if I feel a longer route is a bit safer
    I usually find that using the default google directions and dragging the route to create waypoints on the green pathway lines gets you about 80-90% of the way there. Where google maps gets tripped up often is where paths cross streets or if there's a small break, the pathway gets treated as two completely separate segments and you can't put your route there. In those cases, I resort to satellite view to see if the paths are continuous.
    Originally posted by max_boost
    Hey baller, any problem money can solve is no problem at all. Don't sweat it.

  14. #1234
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    Quote Originally Posted by lilmira View Post
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    I think high cadence is something that you have to train your body to do. Your heartrate will go up initially if your body is not tuned for such cardio exercise. Eventually it will adapt. My cadence was 60s once, nowadays me grinding up the hill will spin faster than that. My average cadence is probably high 80s-90. Our bodies are all different but I think your gearing is more than adequate, you just need to bring up your cadence a bit.

    Yea I’ll try working on bringing my cadence up, I ride 40km/day 4 days a week and have put on 1000km since June 3, my cardio is light years ahead of where I was last year. Guess I have to change my training methods up a bit and focus more on cadence just feels way better at a low cadence high resistance though.

  15. #1235
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    Oh shit I think you put in more mileage than I did lol.

  16. #1236
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    Quote Originally Posted by lilmira View Post
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    Oh shit I think you put in more mileage than I did lol.
    This was a unique month, usually I’m around 700, but I did two 100+ rides this month

  17. #1237
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    Watch that you don’t blow your knees out with low cadence high resistance. You’re far more efficient and safer with high cadence

  18. #1238
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    Higher cadence will result in higher heart rate at the same wattage. My understanding is that high cadence (to a certain extent) will result in less muscle fatigue than low cadence. For me it's certainly true - easier to hold 300w at ~100rpm than at 80rpm.

  19. #1239
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brent.ff View Post
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    Watch that you don’t blow your knees out with low cadence high resistance. You’re far more efficient and safer with high cadence
    Blow those kneecaps straight off, no regrats

  20. #1240
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    Interesting, so what's the avergage cadence you should be shooting for on an average ride. High 80's? 90's? do you try maintain that uphill as well by gearing down? I rarely pedal over 80-85 but tend to max out around 35km/hr on flats. I spend about 90% of my rides in the top gear when biking around Calgary, basically only gear down at stop lights and to climb. Just looked- looks like I have a 50-34T up front.

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