Tools - Deals and Discounts Thread

[cyra1ax]

Originally posted by Supa Dexta
Anyone in the know, with these 75 and 80% sales they have.. Are they losing money, hoping to just get you in the store and buy more? Or are they making a killing at regular price and lower sales prices. ?

They still make money, usually around the 10% mark. There's some times where they will list a different cost price for sale items, and they STILL make money. I've never seen anything that was sold under cost, even at sale prices tbh.

Source: Was an ex CT auto employee.

[Swank]

Heads up, these are on sale now, just picked one up!
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/ma...l#.VhgTI99VhHw

[Tik-Tok]

Thank you sir. Been waiting for the Maximum it to come on sale, getting tired of borrowing from work.

[BerserkerCatSplat]

When you open the package, be sure to check that it's already been set to minimum torque. My father bought one a couple months back, and it had been sitting at like 200 lb-ft while in the packaging - the guy doing calibration at the factory probably forgot to set it back after testing. I tested it on my gauge and it was like 25% off, CanTire was good about exchanging it though.

[msommers]

Where can you go to get them tested/calibrated?

I have this same one and use it mainly for my wheel lugs. But the 4R lugs are reported online as giant pieces of crap and snapping isn't uncommon. Given that I torque them to 80ft-lbs, I'm wondering if this is close or if it's way more (or less).

[BerserkerCatSplat]

Originally posted by msommers
Where can you go to get them tested/calibrated?

I have this same one and use it mainly for my wheel lugs. But the 4R lugs are reported online as giant pieces of crap and snapping isn't uncommon. Given that I torque them to 80ft-lbs, I'm wondering if this is close or if it's way more (or less).

You're far more likely to be under-torquing them than over-torquing if your calibration is out. I don't know where in town does testing, sorry.

[Maxx Mazda]

They're on sale until the end of the year.

[Tik-Tok]

Originally posted by msommers
Where can you go to get them tested/calibrated?

At work, ours are tested annually at Avmax Avionics (formerly Western Avionics). No idea on the cost, but being aviation, probably more than you want to spend.

[msommers]

Originally posted by Tik-Tok


At work, ours are tested annually at Avmax Avionics (formerly Western Avionics). No idea on the cost, but being aviation, probably more than you want to spend.

Yeah for my just Toyota, I couldn't justify or need it lol. Appreciated all the same though!

[ipeefreely]

Originally posted by msommers
Where can you go to get them tested/calibrated?

I have this same one and use it mainly for my wheel lugs. But the 4R lugs are reported online as giant pieces of crap and snapping isn't uncommon. Given that I torque them to 80ft-lbs, I'm wondering if this is close or if it's way more (or less).

Most machine shops will calibrated them for a fee (probably less than it would cost to get it to aviation specs...).

80ft-lbs seems low... I usually torque my car's to at least 100ft-lbs...

[birdman86]

Originally posted by ipeefreely


Most machine shops will calibrated them for a fee (probably less than it would cost to get it to aviation specs...).

80ft-lbs seems low... I usually torque my car's to at least 100ft-lbs...

Google just told me my Xterra is 80 lbs

[relyt92]

Originally posted by ipeefreely


Most machine shops will calibrated them for a fee (probably less than it would cost to get it to aviation specs...).

80ft-lbs seems low... I usually torque my car's to at least 100ft-lbs...

75-80 is spec on the majority of cars. My G37 is 80 ft/lb.

[carson blocks]

I picked up the 3/8" and 1/2". There was a note on the till when the cashier rung them through that said lifetime warranty and lifetime free calibration, and to see customer service for calibration. Not sure if they do it in-store or send it away.

[firebane]

lug nuts are torqued to spec of studs. my truck uses 7/16 studs and only needs around 80ft/lb

[M.alex]

Originally posted by BerserkerCatSplat


You're far more likely to be under-torquing them than over-torquing if your calibration is out. I don't know where in town does testing, sorry.

ITM Instruments does testing/re-calibration

http://www.itm.com/content/quick-contact

Last time i was there it was $50/tq wrench

[Maxx Mazda]

Unless you're in aviation, I've never seen the need to have a torque wrench calibrated. On every vehicle I've ever worked on, the factory service manual has always listed a torque range for every fastener for this very reason, that the wrench itself may be inaccurate by a few inch/foot pounds. Since wrenches will generally under torque instead of over torque (if they are even off) I usually set it to 2/3 of whatever the max torque specified in the manual is. So if the value called for is 95-100 lbf for example, I'll set the wrench to 98 and that will allow room for error.

[ipeefreely]

Originally posted by birdman86
Google just told me my Xterra is 80 lbs

Originally posted by relyt92
75-80 is spec on the majority of cars. My G37 is 80 ft/lb.

Originally posted by firebane
lug nuts are torqued to spec of studs. my truck uses 7/16 studs and only needs around 80ft/lb

Well good thing I'm not a mechanic!!

Both my previous cars were 100ft/lb so I thought that would be the norm... anyway I thought a truck would require more since it has heavier wheels and tires (stronger studs...).

infoWheelTorque

Originally posted by carson blocks
I picked up the 3/8" and 1/2". There was a note on the till when the cashier rung them through that said lifetime warranty and lifetime free calibration, and to see customer service for calibration. Not sure if they do it in-store or send it away.

Cool! Good to know!

[Sophal]

This guy on YouTube shows how to calibrate at home.

https://youtu.be/wIkg94hDswY

[BerserkerCatSplat]

Originally posted by Maxx Mazda
Unless you're in aviation, I've never seen the need to have a torque wrench calibrated. On every vehicle I've ever worked on, the factory service manual has always listed a torque range for every fastener for this very reason, that the wrench itself may be inaccurate by a few inch/foot pounds. Since wrenches will generally under torque instead of over torque (if they are even off) I usually set it to 2/3 of whatever the max torque specified in the manual is. So if the value called for is 95-100 lbf for example, I'll set the wrench to 98 and that will allow room for error.

Mechanical wrenches will always drift over usage and should be checked periodically - every 5 or 10 years is probably enough for most folks doing non-critical stuff. If you're using a strain-type wrench, they don't really drift AFAIK.

The most recent older (but good quality) wrench I tested was 15-20 years old and was overreporting by over 20%. It was so bad that it ran out of calibration adjustment range and it had to be replaced.

If you're doing critical fasteners, you should routinely check your wrenches IMO.

[n1zm0]

From aviation I always was taught for mechanical torque wrenches to return to zero when putting it away for the spring version ones to preserve some accuracy, also something I still do today for whatever habitual reason.

iirc to get them recal'd, it was about $45 6-7 years ago when we sent ours out to Aerocorp. Alot of snap-on trucks would take them too if they were snap on brand but we needed an AMO cert to have it legit for TC.

All I know is, never ever buy a princess auto one, fml with the skipping teeth nonsense