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Thread: Garage Improvements

  1. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by JfuckinC View Post
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    I don’t think that’s legal actually? I thought it was discussed, all you can do is have a sump.

    Edit: https://forums.beyond.ca/threads/379...ge-Floor-Drain

    I guess it’s semi legal? Haha
    Its a grey area, some builders refuse to do them, others are #yolo! We have 2 floor drains in our recently built house/attached garage. They go back into the basement and tie in sanitary.

    If you have a detached you're not going to want to tie them back to the house so that video posted above it a good idea. Just make a trench and shop vac it out if it gets filled up.

  2. #182
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    i installed one of these.

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    Have the outlet reduced to a 2" pvc pipe that runs out underneath the apron. i think i paid 350 bucks for it, and then another 20 bucks for the pipe and reducer at lowes.

    We will see what the inspector says. lol

    My argument is either the water runs out the door, or out the pipe to the alley, does it really make a difference how it gets there?
    "Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary… That’s what gets you."

  3. #183
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    I think you're going to get a "we don't care about water, its the fluids that leak from your car we don't want in the system."

  4. #184
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    It looks like you're planning for a main service entry at the garage with a sub-panel to the house. That's definitely the move.

    Presumably you're running a second conduit for low-voltage telus/shaw service. Definitely pull a couple of runs of cat6 through that same conduit. You need good wifi in the garage if you're going to run cameras, a wifi-enabled garage door opener, or other IoT devices (deadbolt, door sensors, etc). My zwave network can just barely make it out to my detached garage.

    I'm almost certain this was mentioned earlier in the thread but figured I'd repeat it for good measure.

  5. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by prae View Post
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    It looks like you're planning for a main service entry at the garage with a sub-panel to the house. That's definitely the move.

    Presumably you're running a second conduit for low-voltage telus/shaw service. Definitely pull a couple of runs of cat6 through that same conduit. You need good wifi in the garage if you're going to run cameras, a wifi-enabled garage door opener, or other IoT devices (deadbolt, door sensors, etc). My zwave network can just barely make it out to my detached garage.

    I'm almost certain this was mentioned earlier in the thread but figured I'd repeat it for good measure.
    Pro move to run that extra conduit. A+ reccomendations here.
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    You realize you are talking to the guy who made his own furniture out of salad bowls right?

  6. #186
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    Yep. Main in the garage, sub in the house. I will add a few duct, since I will prob get it free.

  7. #187
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    The only other thing I would consider if for some reason you don't vault your ceiling is to run storage trusses. Its been the absolute best feature I added when I built the garage and frees up so much wall space for things like winter/summer tires and sports equipment.
    I agree with the idea of offsetting the door. Thats what I did and I've got about 6 feet as a pseudo workshop even though in reality its mostly tool storage for the cnc, table saw, and mitre saw. I can still go in and fiddle around on the work bench without having to pull vehicles out.
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    Meh, they all look like Jackie Chan to me
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  8. #188
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    I'm planning on the best of both worlds. Scissor truss front of the door and about 6' of storage trusses over the "work shop" area.

    What is the rule about overhang on the alley side? Same as any other property line? "Not within .45m" also, can I add a dormer over the man door and cantilever it towards the home entrance. Not sure if I would do it or not, due to blocking more sunshine. I'm worried about the sun not hitting the back yard anymore. Wife doesn't want it on the north side of the yard because we wouldn't be able to see the kiddos playing in the yard out of the kitchen window. Witch makes sense to me.
    Last edited by arcticcat522; 11-11-2020 at 08:33 AM.

  9. #189
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    Anyone have thoughts on the rustoleum epoxyshield vs rocksolid? Im going to be coating a 19x22' w/ 12" stub walls. Im leaning toward the rocksolid as the finish looks pretty glossy even without a clear coat. My slab has a few hairline cracks so im also looking for recomendation on a good crack repair kit. I will be sanding/grinding the floor to prep. Slab is a 2017 pour.
    Tap, Rack, BANG!

  10. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by littledan View Post
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    Anyone have thoughts on the rustoleum epoxyshield vs rocksolid? Im going to be coating a 19x22' w/ 12" stub walls. Im leaning toward the rocksolid as the finish looks pretty glossy even without a clear coat. My slab has a few hairline cracks so im also looking for recomendation on a good crack repair kit. I will be sanding/grinding the floor to prep. Slab is a 2017 pour.
    I got the epoxyshield just cause it was on sale. The rocksolid did seem like a better product though when I was looking at the difference between the two.
    Gotta look for somewhere that rents out the concrete grinder...apparently no HD's in Calgary rent it out?

    Epoxyshield is still on sale at HD, PM at Lowes for $134.
    https://www.homedepot.ca/product/epo...ft-/1000737492

  11. #191
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    Is it good to wait a freeze/thaw cycle before putting any coating down?

  12. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by arcticcat522 View Post
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    Is it good to wait a freeze/thaw cycle before putting any coating down?
    According to the instructions for Epoxyshield:
    Apply only when air, material, and surface temperatures are between 60-85°F (15-29°C) and the surface temperature is at least 5°F (3°C) above the dew point. The relative humidity should not be greater than 85%.

  13. #193
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    I believe the question is regarding newly poured pads waiting one winter before applying...
    Everyone I've heard from has said yes that is the better way, but then that also means a lot more prep work because you're probably not going to leave a garage unoccupied for a year

  14. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyra1ax View Post
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    I got the epoxyshield just cause it was on sale. The rocksolid did seem like a better product though when I was looking at the difference between the two.
    Gotta look for somewhere that rents out the concrete grinder...apparently no HD's in Calgary rent it out?

    Epoxyshield is still on sale at HD, PM at Lowes for $134.
    https://www.homedepot.ca/product/epo...ft-/1000737492
    Ya I was looking at that sale. Im thinking I would need 2 kits based on people saying the coverage is a bit less than advertised. Then I would need 2 kits of clear so it ended up being like 650 bucks in product. Unless I could use just the standard waterproofing type clear coats that are much cheaper. I saw a youtube vid where the guy did that but he didnt seem super competent so not sure if that works or not.
    Tap, Rack, BANG!

  15. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by jwslam View Post
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    I believe the question is regarding newly poured pads waiting one winter before applying...
    Everyone I've heard from has said yes that is the better way, but then that also means a lot more prep work because you're probably not going to leave a garage unoccupied for a year
    Ya, that's what I figured. Easier to deal with any cracks before it's coated. Thanks,

  16. #196
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    Fyi, these 8ft LED lights are available again, and on sale now. 8 of them for $209.
    https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    They are VERY bright, 12,500 lumens each. I highly recommend them.
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  17. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ekliptix View Post
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    Fyi, these 8ft LED lights are available again, and on sale now. 8 of them for $209.
    https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    They are VERY bright, 12,500 lumens each. I highly recommend them.
    My only issue with those is that they are not diffused and a lot of people say the clear lens makes the light super harsh.

    I am going to pick up a set of these and see how they work https://www.amazon.ca/Lightdot-Mount.../dp/B081MXB7WZ

  18. #198
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    I'm sure you'll be happy with those. I personally don't find the 8' tubes I bought to be harsh or provide uneven light.

    I'm moving within the next year and already planning my next garage setup. For lighting, I'm thinking to add some form to the function with a hex lighting setup.
    I could build my own, or there are some prebuild options like this one. 60,000 lumens in a 16'x8' section should be plenty bright. https://www.carguygarage.com/accesso...lighting-77793
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    1972 Chevy Super Cheyenne C10 Pickup 402 big block, 700R4
    2004 GMC 2500HD 8.1L

    Past Cars:
    1970 Chevy Blazer, 2wd
    2003 BMW X5 4.6IS Doushmobile, moneypit
    2015 Ford Fiesta ST | Cobb Stage 1, catless downpipe
    2008 Corvette Z06 - 11.39 at 123.8mph
    2002 Corvette Z06 - 12.10 at 116.5mph
    2005 Jeep Wrangler LJ
    1993 5L Mustang - 12.59 at 108mph
    1989 5L Mustang
    1990 Jeep Cherokee
    1991 Acura Integra RS 403Honda

  19. #199
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    Those lights are diffused

  20. #200
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    What's the new best amazon LED's someone has recently bought? new garage has three old halogen lights for lighting lol so bad. hoping for some i can plug into the light socket and then daisy chain for more lights?

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