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Thread: Foundation water leak - Grading issue

  1. #1
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    Default Foundation water leak - Grading issue

    I moved in to a new build a year ago and its still under warranty. Due to a crack on the basement wall, water started leaking.

    Builder sent out their trade to fix the wall and they fixed it, but they also suggested that i need to correct the grade.

    I advised the builder that the grading wasnt properly completed, but they advised me that this is completed and sent me a document with the approval from city, Not sure how true is that document.

    Now they are saying, as per the paper work all they can provide is a top soil( one time thing ) up to 3 cubic yard or so.

    they keep saying that its something to do with the ground settlement.

    since the crack has been sealed now and its not leaking, (it didnt on the weekend), is it good to regrade with the top soil ?

    Any thoughts ? please help.

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    You get a final grade certificate from the city after its inspected. Then and only then can you do landscaping.

    If the builder is willing to fix it, let them.

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    ...
    Last edited by Sugarphreak; 08-16-2019 at 02:04 PM.

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    Just fix the grade. The ground around your house should slope away from the foundation. Fix = add dirt. Welcome to home ownership. Weeping tile installed around your foundation should be enough to drain the water table. If not, the builder should install a sump pump.
    Last edited by JudasJimmy; 08-08-2016 at 04:27 PM.

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    +2 on fixing the grade as well. If this doesent affect the water leakage, then its time to go with a sump.

    I am doing the same thing myself (no leaks though) - lots of dirt to move by hand!!

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    Originally posted by revelations
    +2 on fixing the grade as well. If this doesent affect the water leakage, then its time to go with a sump.

    I am doing the same thing myself (no leaks though) - lots of dirt to move by hand!!

    I thinking of adding some dirt to the grade, do you know any best way to calculate how much dirt do i need ? I used some calculators online it says about 3.2 cubic yard.

    I have lawn in the front, so i have to buy some sheet/fabric to put it over the lawn. do you know where can i buy that sheet ?

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    Do you mean to protect the lawn, or cause you're putting this dirt on top of your lawn for the grade...If you're just protecting the lawn while you move dirt..use a tarp?

    I have been having water issues for the last while, and i fixed the grade along my back wall and it has made an immediate difference. Pretty positive i would have had water again last week with those storms and nothing came in.

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    .
    Last edited by codetrap; 12-31-2016 at 12:41 PM.

    "We need a vaccination for stupidity, with booster shots against an unwillingness to learn."

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    Originally posted by Brent.ff
    Do you mean to protect the lawn, or cause you're putting this dirt on top of your lawn for the grade...If you're just protecting the lawn while you move dirt..use a tarp?

    I have been having water issues for the last while, and i fixed the grade along my back wall and it has made an immediate difference. Pretty positive i would have had water again last week with those storms and nothing came in.
    Yes thats correct to protect the lawn, as i dont have much space to put the dirt .I will check those trap out.

    By the way , how did you measure how much top soil did you need, any good websites you recommend. i tried couple sites, the values are different. not sure which one is true.

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    I usually buy a 1 ton bag from a place that delivers dirt. I just ordered on line. They come out, and put the bag where you want it, then you email them when you want the bag picked up. Or throw it away.

    Then you don't have to worry about it washing away and you can move it at your leisure.

    Also, mix in a bag of grass seed when you add the dirt. new grass will go and be long enough to mow in a few weeks. (If you water it)

    The grade will settle a bit more, so don't be afraid to add more dirt than necessary.

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    HxWxL

    H = Height = Usually 1-2 inches or more depending on how thick you want the new soil.
    W= Width = How wide the area is.
    L = Length = How long the area is.

    That should give you the volume you need so you can order it to be delivered.

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    I just did a truck at a time of soil, as it was way cheaper then the 1 cube bags (I got ~2 cubes for around $40 or $50). The bags are damn convenient however. My suggestion would be to see if the topsoil that the builder is offering would just be the bags from Burnco and go that route..?

    Also, rent a lawn roller and tamper from Home Depot. You'll want to compress it good or it will wash away on your first big rain. Don't forget to incorporate that into your grade planning, as you'll likely compress it by 30-40% pretty easily. I wish I thought of Jimmys idea for grass seed being mixed as you put in on... I'm fighting seed now


    I'd also suggest running your hose until you have overland flow on the grassy area that leads to where you'll be adding the dirt before and after to check for potential issues and to ensure your grade is right. Do it a couple days before so you're not making a muddy mess when you go to grade it.
    Last edited by Brent.ff; 08-09-2016 at 09:27 PM.

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    My Mom's place had a problem with leakage for awhile. Guys came in and patched things up and installed a pretty hefty-sized sump pump. Haven't had a problem all summer as far as I know.
    Ultracrepidarian

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    How do we fix the crack ? Is the polyuerathane Fix is good ? Dont they have to do anything on the outside of the hosue ?

    Has anybody used this crack before? how good are those fixes ?

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    Originally posted by sansglee
    How do we fix the crack ? Is the polyuerathane Fix is good ? Dont they have to do anything on the outside of the hosue ?

    Has anybody used this crack before? how good are those fixes ?
    I had a leaking foundation wall crack fixed with polyurethane resin a few years ago and it's never leaked again. All work was completed from the inside of the home.

    From all the rainfall in July, I just found out I have another leaking foundation wall crack and will be getting a quote for that next week and will be getting it repaired. The companies that have been around for a while will offer a transferable lifetime warranty with their services on the crack should it ever leak again.

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    Originally posted by WWJAI


    I had a leaking foundation wall crack fixed with polyurethane resin a few years ago and it's never leaked again. All work was completed from the inside of the home.

    From all the rainfall in July, I just found out I have another leaking foundation wall crack and will be getting a quote for that next week and will be getting it repaired. The companies that have been around for a while will offer a transferable lifetime warranty with their services on the crack should it ever leak again.
    bumping this as I just discovered a crack from top to bottom on our basement foundation and it's leaking water.
    anyone recommend a company that they've used in the past?

    also our house is still under warranty by Alberta New Home but they cover only structural defect, leaking wall or crack may not necessarily be covered unless proven first by paying their inpsector to come on-site first. any have experience with this?

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    Originally posted by taemo


    bumping this as I just discovered a crack from top to bottom on our basement foundation and it's leaking water.
    anyone recommend a company that they've used in the past?

    also our house is still under warranty by Alberta New Home but they cover only structural defect, leaking wall or crack may not necessarily be covered unless proven first by paying their inpsector to come on-site first. any have experience with this?
    If your house is still under Warranty and if the crack is leaking water in, then it should be covered by your home builder.

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    Not sure about the warranty, but basement systems did the crack from the inside and did a good job, and hasn't re-leaked, even in that big rain we had last year.

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    Just make sure your landscaping slopes away from the house (3% slope) and that will keep the worst of the water away from the foundation. Basements are not water-proof ...

    It is a simple fix ... just add top soil until you have slope away from the basement. Amazing how many people do not know about this ... or overlook it ... including contractors/builders.

    Also on new houses the fill around the basement is not compacted so it will sink/settle over time ... and esp. the first year or two. So you should be adding topsoil as it sinks and then you will not have drainage and leak problems.

    Reijo
    "I don't look for something; I find something" - Picasso

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    Originally posted by taemo


    bumping this as I just discovered a crack from top to bottom on our basement foundation and it's leaking water.
    anyone recommend a company that they've used in the past?

    also our house is still under warranty by Alberta New Home but they cover only structural defect, leaking wall or crack may not necessarily be covered unless proven first by paying their inpsector to come on-site first. any have experience with this?
    Give Abalon a call

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