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Thread: Lean codes, bank1 and 2

  1. #1
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    Default Lean codes, bank1 and 2

    Issue on my 04 Ford Expedition 5.4L
    Can you guys help me narrow down my options. I pulled a code and it said too lean bank one. However I was suddenly getting better fuel economy, so I ignored it. Yesterday the check engine light started flashing, so I pulled the codes again, this time, one and two were lean. Now the exhaust sounds like I just added headers.

    I guess it could be weak fuel pump, dirty MAF sensor or injectors, vacuum leak.

    I was hoping with my symptoms you can tell me where to start looking.

    Thanks in advance for the time saved.

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    Firstly, the better fuel economy backs up that this is a truly a lean environment and not a sensor giving incorrect information. Good for economy, not so good for your engine.

    Sounds like you have a pretty good idea where to start looking. I'd add O2 sensors, PVC, or EGR to the mix.

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    I had a similar experience in my Jeep, none of the easy fixes did anything. It ended up being a broken valve spring. The only thing that doesn't line up is that you are getting codes for Bank 1 & 2. Seems unlikely that something would got wrong internally on both sides at the same time.

    Hopefully its just the fuel pump or even better, a fouled fuel filter.

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    A few places to start, thanks.

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    No misfire codes?

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    My 04 had the same issue ended up being a bad coil pack
    A Ferrari is a high maintenance chick, you spend money regardless of what you do with her. You can baby the C63, or slap on all seasons, and you won't be spending anything but yearly maintenance. Of course that's like dating a stripper and refusing to fuck her, which would make you gay.

    Originally posted by Rage2

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    Originally posted by bourge73
    My 04 had the same issue ended up being a bad coil pack
    That's why I ask. Famous Ford issue, but usually throws a misfire code.

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    Nope, just the two lean codes.

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    Plug in a scanner that can do live data and watch your fuel trims. Also, watch what the o2 sensors are doing, how many g/sec the maf is registering, etc.

    you could start with general maintenance. Clean the maf WITH MAF CLEANER NOT BRAKE CLEAN and change your air filter. If the o2 sensors are giving whack readings, you could replace them as well.

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    I bet there are other codes set and your code reader isn't picking them up. You have a flashing check engine light, that means you have a big enough misfire that there is a potential to damage the catalyst.
    Ford coils die all the time but don't always set codes, especially lean codes. You will have to have at least two misfiring cylinders per bank to push the trims to 30% when the lean codes will set. The engine would be running very poorly if that was the case.
    The fact that you have a exhaust note change is a very big clue. I think the timing chains have jumped a tooth at the crank. Pull off the brake booster vacuum line and check vacuum at idle. It should be no less that 18"hg.

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    Originally posted by RLK
    I bet there are other codes set and your code reader isn't picking them up. You have a flashing check engine light, that means you have a big enough misfire that there is a potential to damage the catalyst.
    Ford coils die all the time but don't always set codes, especially lean codes.
    +1
    I would start with some general maintenance. New air filter, plugs, fuel filter, and pull the O2 and MAF and clean them, and see where that takes you. If there is no change, swap the coil pack.
    Boosted life tip #329
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    Make the smart choice.

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    Always a fucking awful experience seeing spikers. Extra awful when he laps me.

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    Loud noise like headers Engine time. 3-6 g s to fix. Head rebuilt vs rebuilt engine. Good luck.
    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/3/34/The_Smoking_Man_(X-Files).jpg

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    Originally posted by cancer man
    Loud noise like headers Engine time. 3-6 g s to fix. Head rebuilt vs rebuilt engine. Good luck.
    Factory reman is the way to go. The most expensive but by far the best solution. When you get cam phaser rattle it's from low oil pressure usually from worn main bearings. The engine will have enough oil pressure to unlock the phasers but not control them. When this happens the engine will run like a bag of hammers until you rev it up a little. It will usually has cam/crank correlation codes, cam signal codes, and misfire codes for that whole bank. I have lost count of how many 5.4's I have condemned because of oil pressure/phaser problems.

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    So I cleaned the K&N last night, reinstalled it this morning. Got that $130 fuel system flush from Mr Lube. I was going to do plugs next, pulled the codes first and they were down graded to"pending" and o2 sensor signal biased/stuck rich, is also pending now.

    I've been reading about doing plugs on the 5.4 and they are known for snapping off.

    I'm wondering if the different exhaust sound is a separate issue and this really looks like a dirty fuel system???

    I'm going to run my tank empty and fill with premium.

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    Lean codes, and loud exhaust not. Point toward broken studs, and warped manifolds...
    I would check there first.

    The 5.4 isn't known for damaged heads, there are the occasional broken springs, but its usually the cam phasers that will go first before anything else.

    Fords ECUs are very good at MAF to MAP to Fueling correlations, if there is no code for lack of airflow, then there is no worry with the MAF sensor.

    Bad plugs on a 5.4 will show up as hesitation when accelerating, or partial throttle input, and will definitely throw a missfire CEL (flashing CEL) if they are carbon tracked or worn out.

    A bad coil will give you flashing CEL, and a rich condition code on the faulty bank. Ford uses a decent wideband primary sensor that will detect a over rich condition, unlike the older narrow band sensors that couldn't make heads or tails of a very rich or very lean burn.

    The pending code that you are getting is because the Car has not gone through the emissions check list (OBD readiness checks) which require you to derive the car about 30kms in varying conditions from speed to engine time, and atleast two full warm ups from cold.


    all in all, I would kneel down by your left and right wheel wells, and take a listen for puft, puft, puft sounds which would indicate a cracked, warped, or broken exhaust manifold.

    should be about $600 a side IIRC, or if you want to tackle it yourself, then about $300 for aftermarket manifolds, and new studs. Just be read to deal with multiple broken studs.


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    If you are doing the plugs be careful if they are the two piece ones they
    certainly can and will snap off, might want to enlist the helpof a pro if you aren't 100% (why spend $130 on a fuel system
    Flush from Mr Lube you ?)
    A Ferrari is a high maintenance chick, you spend money regardless of what you do with her. You can baby the C63, or slap on all seasons, and you won't be spending anything but yearly maintenance. Of course that's like dating a stripper and refusing to fuck her, which would make you gay.

    Originally posted by Rage2

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