Anyone here with 19.2" wall studs and mounted a TV?

[Inzane]

If I ever build a house again I'll make damn sure the builder uses 16" on centre stud spacing and not 19.2"!!

Anyway the latest example of the inconvenience this causes is I'm shopping for a wall mount for my new 60" Samsung LED. (Cheetah, etc. on Amazon). Most of these brackets make reference to 16" or 24" spacing, but no mention of 19.2". Lucky me.

I'm hoping it just means I can get away with the brackets made for 24" and re-drill the lag bolt holes at the appropriate spacing. Is that the solution or am I missing something else obvious?

Thanks.

[spikerS]

easiest way to do it, is to get a 3/4" piece of plywood, and then double it up so you get a 1.5" thick piece of plywood.

Cut it to size so it will overlap the studs in the area you want to mount the TV, and then screw that plywood into the studs.

Paint it to match the walls

Mount your TV mounting bracket to the plywood, and then attach the TV.

PROFIT!

[HomespunLobster]

look for ones with a bunch of holes on the mounting plate. You'll be fine. Even 16" and 24" studs need some wiggle room since nothing is perfect

[Thaco]

yeah just pit a piece of plywood to the studs and the bracket on the plywood, most tvs now are so light you can even use thin plywood and just use like 20 screws and it'll be fine

[revelations]

Definitely plywood, PL400 glue and then a 1/8" MDF finish on top. Did this this week actually.

[roopi]

The plywood method works however your TV will sit further from the wall. I have the same stud spacing as you and I wanted a very flush mount. I put one end in the stud and the other end I just used anchors that were rated for the correct weight. Tv's are not that heavy and I mounted 2 this way with no issues.

[spikerS]

Originally posted by roopi
The plywood method works however your TV will sit further from the wall. I have the same stud spacing as you and I wanted a very flush mount. I put one end in the stud and the other end I just used anchors that were rated for the correct weight. Tv's are not that heavy and I mounted 2 this way with no issues.

Which can be fine on a static mount with no kids in the house. But if the wall vibrates or if the mount has a tilt option, or swings out from the wall at all, those anchors will either very quickly pass their load bearing abilities due to rotational torque, manipulation of the TV, or will loosen their grip. I would not recommend that method.

As for what another poster said about it not being flush, unless you have a specific recess in the wall that the TV sits in, 1 or 1.5 inches isn't gonna make a lick of difference, nor will it be really noticeable. Just my $0.02 though.

Oh, and using PL400 on the plywood isn't gonna get you anywhere except a big headache when or if you need to take the mount down. You are gluing the plywood to drywall, which is covered with paper. It would tear the paper down before it really lent any meaningful change to the load bearing of the mount. If you use PL400 on it, when you have to move it you are taking a large chunk of the paper down too, causing a larger repair, versus 4-6 screw holes.

[roopi]

True enough regarding the swivel/tilt mounts. Mine are both static so it works for me.

[Thaco]

if i need to use one stud and dont want the plywood i just use a single stud mount, if you use some beefy screws its not going anywhere and newer tvs are so light, the mounts are made for old bricks, so the new tv's what weigh 30 lbs wont even phase the mount

[Inzane]

Originally posted by HomespunLobster

look for ones with a bunch of holes on the mounting plate. You'll be fine. Even 16" and 24" studs need some wiggle room since nothing is perfect

I think you're on to something. I found the installation manual online for one of the mounts I'm considering and the way it shows the lag bolts used it looks like it shouldn't matter what the stud spacing is. (For some reason I thought they had to go through specific holes at the end of the brackets, which is why I thought to ask).

Next thing is figuring how high up the wall to mount it...

[HomespunLobster]

Originally posted by Inzane


I think you're on to something. I found the installation manual online for one of the mounts I'm considering and the way it shows the lag bolts used it looks like it shouldn't matter what the stud spacing is. (For some reason I thought they had to go through specific holes at the end of the brackets, which is why I thought to ask).

Next thing is figuring how high up the wall to mount it...

I prefer the ones with a bunch of holes, you can slide the base left or right depending on where you want it in relation to a stud placement.

[speedog]

Originally posted by Inzane
...
Next thing is figuring how high up the wall to mount it...

That should produce quite a range of suggestions.

[Thaco]

Originally posted by speedog


That should produce quite a range of suggestions.

Yeah thats gonna be personal preference, i like to have mine about 5.5-6 ft up (center) and tilted down a bit just to keep little fingers off it

[Inzane]

Originally posted by Thaco
Yeah thats gonna be personal preference, i like to have mine about 5.5-6 ft up (center) and tilted down a bit just to keep little fingers off it

Do you mean the vertical centreline of the screen 5.5 to 6 ft from the floor?

[Thaco]

Originally posted by Inzane


Do you mean the vertical centreline of the screen 5.5 to 6 ft from the floor?

horizontal, yes

[Inzane]

Nomenclature owns us all. I said vertical because we're talking halfway up the vertical axis.

I forgot to order a power bridge kit when I ordered my wall mount. Thank goodness for free shipping on Amazon.

[C_Dave45]

No solution just a question: I've never seen wall studs at 19.2. It's either 16, or 24 for basements finishes. 19.2 is common for floor and ceiling joists . Never heard of walls. Dont even think they make 19.2 insulation Batts. Who built your house?

[Inzane]

Originally posted by C_Dave45
No solution just a question: I've never seen wall studs at 19.2. It's either 16, or 24 for basements finishes. 19.2 is common for floor and ceiling joists . Never heard of walls. Dont even think they make 19.2 insulation Batts. Who built your house?

The main and second floor and garage were all framed at 19.2". It's normal but less common obviously than 16". 19.2" is derived from an 8ft Sheetrock divided by 5 exactly.

When we built our house 9 years ago I didn't catch it in time. The architect's plans said 16" OC but the 19.2" spec was buried in the fine print of the build contract. I discovered it when my wife and I went to insulate the garage, which was obviously after we took possession and settled in.

It was probably mainly cost savings on the part of the builder, although one could maybe argue better insulating properties for a wall framed at 19.2 vs 16. However, knowing what I know now I'd never knowingly deviate from 16" again. When I developed my basement that was all 16".

[AE92_TreunoSC]

I opened my slots with a dremel at work haha. I have a beefy double bevel that I mounted in my basement that didn't work till some magic.

[C_Dave45]

Originally posted by Inzane

19.2" is derived from an 8ft Sheetrock divided by 5 exactly.

Yeah I know where they get 19.2 from. Framing went that spacing when engineered I-beams became the norm. Making for one less joist within the 8 feet and still fitting standard sized sheeting, it was a major cost savings, while keeping the strength.

But I've never seen it done on walls. Mainly because you're only saving about $1.50 every 8', and they don't normally make insulation in 19.2 dimensions.

I've worked on literally thousands of houses, both old and new, and I've never seen 19.2 on the walls.

Very strange.

Carry on.