Low Hot Water Pressure

[dj_rice]

Recently, been noticing the hot water pressure in the house getting lower and lower. Its still enough to take a shower and use but definately compared to the cold water pressure its way too low.

And this is throughout the entire house which leads me to believe its the hot water tank.

Upon visual inspection, everything looks fine, and working fine. Its a newer updated tank I think in 2005. So I'm guessing the problem is the water outlet is clogged with calcium and whatever else blocking it.

House has PEX pipe so I don't think I need to cut and solder pipes. Do I just un-screw the outlet pipe and clean or any tips? I'm gonna drain the hot water tank first and see if that helps (first time I've done this since moving in)

[Darell_n]

2005 is ancient.

[The_Penguin]

Originally posted by dj_rice
So I'm guessing the problem is the water outlet is clogged with calcium and whatever else blocking it.

Reasonable guess. Is PEX going directly in to the water heater, or is there some copper? Ours was poly-b to copper to the fitting on the tank.
After about 9 years of service, the oultlet connection was 95% clogged with crud.

[dj_rice]

Originally posted by The_Penguin


Reasonable guess. Is PEX going directly in to the water heater, or is there some copper? Ours was poly-b to copper to the fitting on the tank.
After about 9 years of service, the oultlet connection was 95% clogged with crud.

I'll double check when I get home, I believe its PEX going to copper, to a fitting on the tank.

If thats the case, just un-loosen fitting, clean and then re-install and we're back in business?

[revelations]

I would also strongly recommend a whole house sediment filter as well for appliance and piping longevity.

[The_Penguin]

Originally posted by dj_rice



I'll double check when I get home, I believe its PEX going to copper, to a fitting on the tank.

If thats the case, just un-loosen fitting, clean and then re-install and we're back in business?

Theoretically, yes. You may need to cut the copper pipe to remove the fitting depending on the type. Also, a lot of plumbers dismiss this, but some people say that the cause of this is the dissimilar metals (copper pipe, steel fitting) When 2 dissimilar metals are touching in the presence of an electrolyte, you get a small current flow, and transfer of one metal to another (Galvanic Corrosion). The cure is to use a dielectric union.

When I fixed mine, I did this, and checked it a few years later, no sign of trouble. 'course many years later the plumbers that replaced our heaters and installed a softener, scrapped the dielectric unions, and went back to the old way.

[The_Penguin]

Here's the union (about $5-7 if I remember correctly.
Bonus is that you can disassemble without cutting the pipe.

[dj_rice]

Here's pics of my setup. I think it does have those union connection installed from what ur pictures look like.


» Click image for larger version


» Click image for larger version


» Click image for larger version

[dj_rice]

Tried to shut off my main water shut off valve yesterday. Its stuck open and won't budge.

Tried shutting off the cold water flow into hot water tank valve as well. That's stuck open and won't budge. I'm hoping some Penetrating fluid will loosen it and its not ball valve inside isn't f'd and stuck.

Both valves are ball seat valves.

Tried showering yesterday and it was a bare drizzle so


If not, plumber we go. But if he can't shut off the water, I assume city will have to come and shut off from the street?

[revelations]

Originally posted by dj_rice
Tried to shut off my main water shut off valve yesterday. Its stuck open and won't budge.

Tried shutting off the cold water flow into hot water tank valve as well. That's stuck open and won't budge. I'm hoping some Penetrating fluid will loosen it and its not ball valve inside isn't f'd and stuck.

Both valves are ball seat valves.

Tried showering yesterday and it was a bare drizzle so


If not, plumber we go. But if he can't shut off the water, I assume city will have to come and shut off from the street?

You can shut it off at your WV location. Its just a big socket. We had ours shut off this summer temporarily and it was really easy.

[dj_rice]

Originally posted by revelations


You can shut it off at your WV location. Its just a big socket. We had ours shut off this summer temporarily and it was really easy.

Sorry Mar moment here but English please?

[J-D]

Originally posted by dj_rice



Sorry Mar moment here but English please?

I think he means Water Valve, although I know when the city started forcing water meters on older houses they had huge failure rates so they started putting the meters after the basement water shutoffs. Theoretically you could bypass the meter but I guess it's cheaper than digging up a bunch of old valves

[dj_rice]

Penetrating fluid and some WD40 and got the shut off valves to turn.


Drained the tank. Confirmed cold water feed side was getting water. Tried to remove the brass nut on the hot side but after 10 years of no maintenance from previous owner it wasn't budging. Brute stength got it turning but I ended up cracking the brass union nut on the copper flex pipe.

But the whole dip tube connector was plugged up with rust, debris and sentiment exactly like The Penguins picture. And I believe the dip tube was rusted off as well so will need to get a new dip tube as well as a new copper flex pipe and learn how to solder but once the fix is done, i'll be good for another 10-15 years


Home owner life.

[jeffh]

Cycling your valves every 6-12 months is a good idea.

[dj_rice]

Originally posted by jeffh
Cycling your valves every 6-12 months is a good idea.

Thanks for tip. Learning so much things I have to do maintenance wise as a homeowner now. I miss my condo life

[dj_rice]

Update.


After removing the hot side connection, I bought a new Sharkbite connection, installed it but looks like it won't create a good seal on the hot side nipple as after 16 years (tank was built in 2000), some of the top thread on the nipple rusted off with the copper connection I removed.

So here I am trying to figure out a fix. I've tried using a pipe wrench but the nipple won't budge. Youtube'd some videos and put a bushing nut over it, drilled a hole through both the nut and nipple and a bolt through both and tried to crank that for more leverage but still no dice.

Tanks still good and was working and don't wanna plop down money to buy a new one just for a damaged nipple.

Any ideas?

Heres the method I'm trying. I'm just using a pipe wrench currently, Canadian Tire didn't have a big enough socket to fit over it. I think its a 38-40mm socket.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DADf5XyD_Tc&t=45s

[The_Penguin]

Did you try any penetrating oil? That's hoping the bulk of the rust is at the top.

Do you have a large pipe? Or what really works well for me is the handle off of my floor jack.
Put it over the end of the wrench, mucho leverage.

[dj_rice]

Finally got it to budge. Installed new nipple and connection and we're all good there



But now I can't get the pilot light to stay lit. Followed instructions and pilot just shuts off. If it's not one thing it's another lol.

[The_Penguin]

If it's the turn to pilot, push in, click button type, how long are you holding it? sometimes it takes 20 seconds or so to really get the thermocouple working.

[dj_rice]

Originally posted by The_Penguin
If it's the turn to pilot, push in, click button type, how long are you holding it? sometimes it takes 20 seconds or so to really get the thermocouple working.

I don't have the electronic ignition. Old fashioned lighter method. But I turn to pilot push in and wait 60 seconds. The pilot button does push back up but pilot just dies.

Ill try holding it longer and see if that heats up the thermocouple. Unless I need a new one but pilot was still working when I shut off the gas. It has been sitting for a week un touched


If I'm understanding it correctly the thermocouple is what activates the gas valve? Cause if I push down and light and pilot lights that means I'm getting gas but releasing the button the thermocouple should kick in and keep gas flowing