I don't see any specific threads regarding IGL Coatings itself, just that Mr Frost detailing sucks and that you even recommended him as well LOL
I don't see any specific threads regarding IGL Coatings itself, just that Mr Frost detailing sucks and that you even recommended him as well LOL
Originally posted by GTS Jeff
You know those bored stay at home moms who's entire lives revolve around driving their kids to soccer, various cleaning accessories, and worrying about neighbourhood rapists? The kind of people that watch the View and go "uh huh..." Those unfulfilled people who try to fill the void in their empty lives by writing whiny letters to the editor complaining about shit that no one really cares about?
Well imagine if instead of writing that letter to the editor, she just posts on a car forum for car enthusiasts. That's Kritafo.
IGL which stands for iGreenLover is a SI02 based coating. Kenzo is their professional line coating which is comparable to CS-II Titanium, Gtechniq CS and cQuartz Finest Reserve (not the professional).This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
I don't want to slander any coatings manufacturer so I will stop here
This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Would love your thoughts. PM please?
Originally posted by GTS Jeff
You know those bored stay at home moms who's entire lives revolve around driving their kids to soccer, various cleaning accessories, and worrying about neighbourhood rapists? The kind of people that watch the View and go "uh huh..." Those unfulfilled people who try to fill the void in their empty lives by writing whiny letters to the editor complaining about shit that no one really cares about?
Well imagine if instead of writing that letter to the editor, she just posts on a car forum for car enthusiasts. That's Kritafo.
pm gpomp on hereThis quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
+1, does great workThis quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
i tried opticoat pro, it was sprayed on and IR cured
i find after 2 months its like regular paint again. the videos on youtube where after two years it behaves like day 1 i think are BS or i got scammed. i am told to maintain the beading you need to apply reload to it? big deal i rather just wax the car and never get it in the first place. so the only potential upside i see with ceramic coating is ability to remove scratches easier. am i wrong?
2002 VW Golf GT TDI
2016 VW Passat BiTDI
Hi Bart
Are you in Calgary or Edmonton? I have not seen anyone spray OCP. Not saying it’s impossible but it uses twice as much product although it’s a faster process.
OCP is not super hydrophobic, OCP+ is but you are right about water not beeding properly. This happens normally after winter, which is why a decontamination wash is required.
The advantage of OCP or any other nano coatings is Protection! Oxidization, high chemical resistance etc...
Hydrophobic will degrade in time but what doesn’t degrade is gloss and slickness.
This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
in europe they seem to do the spray places, ya they told me it would require more product, they gave me a sample of some spray on stuff to maintain, no idea what it is, but smells amazing like bubblegum lol, what should i use to maintain it? reload or something else?
next time i will get someone to do it in calgary by hand and something more hydrophobic then, give ceramic another chance, but for OCP kinda meh i say
2002 VW Golf GT TDI
2016 VW Passat BiTDI
That explains it. Spraying OCP is quite common in UK. If it smells like bubblegum then that’s reload.
Back in the coating early days, OCP does not produce a great gloss. We often had to use reload as a topper to make it glossy and slick.
This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Sorry for the late response. Yes OPC+. I had it for a year now but I don't drive the car too often to get it too dirty. I also have it on top of XPEL Ultimate so not entirely sure if it is the film or coating making it easier to wash.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
@bartThis quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
The ability of a coating to adhere depends on the preparation of the paintwork and the weather.
Clean the paintwork well with an IPA wipe down (70/30 water/isopropyl alcohol) with a good quality microfiber, or product like CarPro Eraser or Menzerna Top Inspection prior to application.
As for longevity of coatings, most of it are really marketing. Like Apple and their new iPhone X "most durable glass ever applied on a smartphone", most of these claims are too good to be true and with so many variables it is tough to measure each coating's performance quantitatively.
Buy the cheapest/easiest to apply on the market, apply it with good paintwork preparation, then top it off with a good, easy Last Step Product (LSP) like SONAX Polymer Net Shield to achieve beading and longevity.
Coatings do not remove scratches or protect your paintwork 100%, it's not like an added clear coat over your paintwork, it's far thinner than that.
Most people don't realize there are post-coating maintenance that needs to be done once a year. The maintenance is quite simple. Is just maintenance wash with coating specific shampoo without any gloss enhancer and finally finish off with SiO2 spray sealant. This will remove road film from the coating and 'reset' the hydrophobic property of the coating.
Don't you need to clay bar them to best restore the hydrophobic properties and remove contaminants? I can feel contaminants in my coating, and washing it does not seem to take them out, but it's still definitely doing it's job.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Sorry, I should've been my clear. My bad.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
When I mentioned 'annual maintenance', it includes the full decon process (wash, clay and de-iron/tar).
Clay will introduce marring or fine scratches.
It is recommended to perform medium to fine polish (something like a Menzerna 2500 or 4500 super finish) after clay work.
Hi jay,This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Clay bar on coatings will not induce marrings because we do not use a heavy grade when claying a coating. So why is claying important on coatings? Why and what would degrade hydrophobic? Hydrophobic is nothing but a top coat on a coating. It can be removed while the coating is still there.
SI02 coatings are not hydrophobic in nature, they were added in.
Our weather here is completely different from California.
Also coatings are meant to protect paintwork from environmental stuff. It does not protect against scratches due to neglect.
Coatings has a high chemical UV resistance. We can coat a bottle and put it in alkaline and it wouldn't dissolve.
When there is discussion about longivety, what exactly is covered under warranty?
We dont warranty hydrophobic nor does a few big coatings manufacturer. There are methods that experienced guys can do to perform to see if a coating is still on the paintwork.
I agree that prep work are involved when doing coating application because SI02 coatings are for protection, like wax and sealant. It is not restor-fx.
Cheers
Ok, so hopefully this will help give everyone an idea on what is coatings.
Coatings are made up of either SI02 or SiC by the major players in the market now. Why is there such a big price difference them? With the market being so saturated now, we have coatings that ranges from $40-400.
Silica with the chemical formula SI02 which is Quartz is a hard crystal. How can I apply Si02 coatings if its a hard substance?
Solvents are used to dissolved it and most of these solvents will evaporate..leaving the Si02 left to "cure" or harden.
This is why some coatings (IE, Ceramic PRO and newest CQuartz Reserved) requires a IR lamp to help cure/harden the coatings.
Protection, how does a 50% SI02 compared with a 85% SI02 coating? The more concentrated SI02 will offer a far more superior protection against chemicals, UV and other elemnets that a clear coat cannot.
Why coating and not wax or sealant? Its because coating bonds to paintwork on a molecular level. It cannot be removed by washing or using a wax/grease remover.
Now I'm not a chemist but from what I was told by chemist is that Hydrophobic in Silica is a form of hydrophobic groups bonded to the surface. This is why I always refer to hydrophobic properties as being the "top" coat or layer. Because its on the surface it can be easily compromised.
Most of the coatings I have seen that are hydrophobic, in time it slowlys becomes hydrophilic.