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Thread: Is this a good deal for a 2013 A5?

  1. #41
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    I wouldn't raise the offer either like you are thinking. If they won't give you a counter they will wait for your next offer and then counter. They will squeeze more money out of you.

    If you really want the car then decide on your absolute highest price you are willing to pay then either:

    1. Offer that price and tell them this is your best offer and there is no room for negotiation. If they don't accept it then just move on. Be prepared to walk using this method. If they come back a day later with a counter just tell them you are already looking at other vehicles and the only way you will consider theirs is if they meet your price. There are plenty of cars out there.

    2. Offer lower then your best offer and see if you get a counter and play the stupid negotiation game. Just be prepared to cut it off at some point. They will try and squeeze every cent out of you.

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    The dealership has a few plates in the air (CPO, two fees, summer rim/tires, building cost) in order to move them about as they see fit in order to get you to pay as much as possible. At this point, I'd move along knowing the car is not for me. For sure I'd be dropping the salesperson as he is a lying F right from the get-go. It is an Audi, there will another one for sale next week.

    You want an S4 anyways. Right?

    Watch the movie Fargo, this Audi salesperson is taking his techniques right from Fargo.


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    Okay, sounds good guys.

    A Beyond member who works at Glenmore Audi sent me a PM earlier today so I will definitely take some time to reconsider my options if I can't come to a deal with Royal Oak.

    I'm open to both an A5 and S4, and the S4 was preferable only if they wouldn't budge on the A5 price. I love the A5 coupe styling but I am not desperate to get into one. An S4 is just as good, if not better.

    That said, the 2012 S4 was obtained via ADESA auction and has a 6k claim on it, not to mention that it won't come CPO'd and would cost a small fortune to fix if something happened. Additionally, it's not often that you see a 2012 S4 with only 56,000 on the odometer for the $32k pricetag.

  4. #44
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    6k was probaby a fender bender. Car probably wasnt hit too hard -

    Reference - Iv been creamed twice in two years and am shocked at what it cost to fix the cars

  5. #45
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    I rear ended someone in my S4 at under 5km/h, minimal cosmetic damage, and it was over $10,000. Over $5000 of that was the headlights. Doesn't take much to get to $6000 but you need to find out exactly what was done. If it was body work, you want to inspect that area and make sure it was good work. You can probably also use that claim to your advantage when negotiating.

  6. #46
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    Originally posted by rx7boi
    Okay, sounds good guys.

    A Beyond member who works at Glenmore Audi sent me a PM earlier today so I will definitely take some time to reconsider my options if I can't come to a deal with Royal Oak.

    I'm open to both an A5 and S4, and the S4 was preferable only if they wouldn't budge on the A5 price. I love the A5 coupe styling but I am not desperate to get into one. An S4 is just as good, if not better.

    That said, the 2012 S4 was obtained via ADESA auction and has a 6k claim on it, not to mention that it won't come CPO'd and would cost a small fortune to fix if something happened. Additionally, it's not often that you see a 2012 S4 with only 56,000 on the odometer for the $32k pricetag.
    Is the S4 at Royal Oak as well?

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    Nope, the S4 is an independent dealer.

  8. #48
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    Have you driven an S4?

    Im not sure how an A5 would even be considered if you have. Sure the A5 looks good, but it's worlds apart from the S4 ....does the S4 have the sport diff, and is it a dsg or manual?

    Ive got a pretty serious Audi hookup if you need help...

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    Originally posted by SkiBum5.0


    Cost of doing business - and the dealer makes a holdback on the finance or lease deal. The fee they are charging is pure margin.
    Yeah, it’s a margin for taking time out of your day to help the buyer out. If you don’t want to pay it then you can always get financing yourself.

    When you’re trading in a not so desirable car and can’t afford to pay the balance (or entire amount) in cash then you’re not really in a power position and people have got to start realizing that. They’re doing you a service by getting you financing and getting you in that car so either you pay the fees and get the car or save your money and come back with cash then negotiate.

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    Adesa can have some decent stuff but I've seen a lot of absolute shit passed off as nice come through there as well.

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    You know what fam, if you truly want either of these cars, you would have it already.

    Just keep the Genny.

  12. #52
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    Originally posted by Mitsu3000gt


    So you should have to pay an inflated price because their building is too nice? That's a new one.

    They may not have $7K margin but I bet there is plenty there. Did they tell you what they had to do to bring it "up to spec"? If not much, then they probably have high margin. If they did a lot (Like say a full brake job, tires, etc) then they probably don't have as much wiggle room.

    They should show you what they paid for the car and how much money they have into it - a good salesman should be totally transparent. Give them their $1000 profit for a quick buck and it's an easy deal for everyone.

    Sounds like you're doing the sales dance with them at this point - the worst part of car shopping IMO. I'd probably walk away and wait for them to call you back but it's up to you. If this particular sample isn't your dream car or you aren't getting it for the price you want just walk away and give yourself at least a day to think about it - it's a lot of money (at least it would be to me haha). It's easy enough to get a good deal with no fees on a used car, there's no reason why you shouldn't be getting that.

    It's also nearing month end and it costs the dealer money the longer that car is on the lot, so you might find they get more willing to deal closer to the end of the month. They also like to pad their monthly sales numbers by cramming in as many sales as possible before the month closes. You could try make your offer again at the end of the month, and in the meantime wait to see if they call you back.
    few things wrong here:

    1) the salesman likely does not have any clue what the margin is, nor will he until he sells the car. A salesmanager will know it roughly, but they absolutely do not want the salesmen to know because if you work on commission all you would sell is the vehicles with 10g profit in them and would never sell something that only has 1g in profit.

    2) it is completely possible they traded this badboy in from someone and took a bath on it in service, in the bodyshop, or when negotiating with the customer. it is also possible they bought it from auction and it's sat there for 9 months and have had to discount it down to near what they paid for it from depreciation.

    3) good advice on month end, but month end is not hte end of the month usually. month end cut off is in the next couple days most likely, or today actually, but every dealership is different. trying to be a month end volume number is how I have bought every car from a dealership, but I negotiate usually over the course of weeks also.

    4) good advice on most everything else. The salesman couldn't give two shits about the cost of the building, or keeping hte heat on. they want sales and would be happy 9/10 times to see the dealership close the doors next month if it means they sold 5 extra cars this month.

    OP:

    IMO OP's offer and their lack of counter offer is a clear indication he is completely out to lunch. I would completely write this particular car off and negotiating on it. It is likely they have you pegged as an idiot at this point, or there just isn't any room in that. Sales will blow a customer out the door if their offer is out to lunch. It is unlikely they will give you a smoking deal on any other car there as well now that you've stamped the type of customer you are into their brains. IMO who gives a crap, its just business so go find another one at another dealership if you really want one. I was blown out the door this year at one bmw dealership offering 30g on a 335i they were asking 35g for. ya, my offer kinda sucked for them, but I bought the same car a month later (technically it was a newer one actually, with more options, but it did have more km) from another bmw dealership for the same offer. So my offer was fine for the car, just not the first car/first dealership to make it work

    OP, are you really sure you want an a5 anyway? They do not make a lot of sense to me personally. It's a big boat of a car without any interior space so i'm not a fan of GT style cars like that. It'll never be worth anything once it gets old because big cars that are not fun to drive are never worth anything; it wont even have value as a commuter car or family car for people because its not a 4 door, and it's an audi so its going to be murder on maintenance someday. But it's so much more then that; an A5 is gutless on top of that all, meaning its not even a good GT car today, so the only value is in it's status, which is a 5 year old 3rd rate German luxury car. If you keep it for awhile you're going to have to find the type of guy who wants to buy a 10 year old gutless useless 3rd rate german car purely as a status symbol...... that translates into you'll be dealing with non stop idiots trying to unload it.

    Plus it's not even priced well right now; for the price of an 2013 A5 you can literally get a 2012/2013 C350 coupe 4matic (last style) for less, or for under 30g you can get a 2012/2013 335i (last style also) and both those things have balls at least, and in the case of the 335i it's actually a pretty good drivers car (much better than the new F chassis).

    And before you poopoo that those are last gen models, know that your current gen 2013 A5 is going to be a last gen model this year when the 2018s are released and resale is going to tank hard (whereas the other 2 resale already tanked hard).

  13. #53
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    Thanks everyone. I let the Audi guy know during the weekend that I'll continue to look.

    Even thought this A5 wasn't bad, I had originally wanted something with less than 50k km's.

    @zhao, I agree with you on alot of the points. I didn't feel like this salesperson was trying to lie to me at anytime. He's been great to work with and I've had many other friends in the industry tell me that salespeople in fact do not know the exact margins. They can only guess just like I can. He's been trying to sell me on value of the add-on's in textbook ways (telling me that the winter tire package is worth $3200) but that's all part of the business anyway.

    I actually didn't bring an official offer to the salesmanager. I suppose that I had said $27,500 just to try my luck but knowing that it had only been on the lot for 2 days, I knew there was no way they would accept that, let alone $29k all-in. The salesperson wouldn't have bothered to bring that offer to his salesmanager either as he would just look foolish himself. In essence, he was telling me that a $27.5 is a waste of time. I knew it and he knew it, and I appreciate that he was able to say that.

    I might have to go back to the drawing board or at least look at other options like a C-class or a 3 series. I really like the A5 for the sleeker coupe styling. I've looked at C250/350 coupes and they don't really look like much to me. I also prefer the Audi MMI and interior but I have to say that it is slightly overpriced in its class.

    Just a couple more things, I know that alot of people in this thread have been questioning why I'm not just buying an S4 instead.

    As we know, the S4 is a more expensive vehicle with more potential repair/maintenance costs. I can't CPO a used Audi unless I buy it through the dealership and I certainly don't have the funds to foot a $6000 repair bill. I'm not sure if that means that I should probably not own an Audi. Financially, it just makes sense for me to stick with a vehicle in the low 30's. As I mentioned before, it's rare that there's a low mileage 2012 S4 for under $33,000 unless you're looking privately

    Secondly, I want a lower mileage vehicle so that there's a lower likelihood of needing repairs down the road, especially if I run out of coverage on it. I think I have more peace of mind owning a simple 2.0T than a 3.0T supercharger.

    I test drove the 2012 S4 this weekend. It's optioned with the sports diff and pulled like a beast but looking under the hood, I could see that there was an APR CF intake. I couldn't tell if the car was tuned or not as the last time I drove a stock S4 was over a year ago. The steering wheel was worn all the way down. Despite the $6500 claim on the car, it seems like an AMAZING deal on paper. It's been on their lot for 3 weeks and seeing as there's no shortage of peeps looking for S4's, I really wonder why it hasn't been snatched up at this point.

    Again, this has been valuable. I've never bought a used car before so this will give me a basis for comparison as I keep looking.
    Last edited by rx7boi; 01-23-2017 at 12:09 PM.

  14. #54
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    Make sure to buy one with warranty. We took a 2011 a5 in on trade with only 75 000kms on it. It needed $6000 worth of work in the shop. Turbo wastegate shot, valve cover leaking, needed rear brakes, new pcv system etc.
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  15. #55
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    Originally posted by Redlyne_mr2
    Make sure to buy one with warranty. We took a 2011 a5 in on trade with only 75 000kms on it. It needed $6000 worth of work in the shop. Turbo wastegate shot, valve cover leaking, needed rear brakes, new pcv system etc.
    Ouch. What could have happened to warrant those kinds of repairs? Was it driven hard or just run-of-the-mill expensive German repairs?

  16. #56
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    Lots of talk about the finances side of things, so I don't have much more to add. If you are going through the dealer, at least get them to sneak in the 10-yr/160,000km CPO extension. It's only a $1-2k add-on depending on the car. Well worth it in my opinion. Also, keep in mind the A/S5's new MSRP were ~$5k more than the 4-dr counterpart A/S4's, so that will impact used pricing.

    There was an earlier comment about getting the dealer to throw in AudiCare. These packages can only be purchased new, but it does follow the VIN of the car, not the owner. So OP, try to find a used one that already has AudiCare on its VIN for free maintenance, especially on any of the 3.0T models with a DSG; the DSG service is easily a $1k job itself. Keep in mind though that the base AudiCare package was only for 5 years from the in-service date of the vehicle or something like 75k (don't remember the exact kilometerage).

    A few comments on your choices of cars themselves:
    - 2009-2012 is the B8 generation
    - 2013-2016 is the B8.5 gen (mid-model body update)
    - While the B8.5 updates were mostly cosmetic, if comparing apples-to-apples (A-models vs the S's), a B8.5 DSG S4/5 also has a centre diff in addition to the optional sports diff; steering changed from hydraulic to electric (pros/cons to each); MMI updates incl. bluetooth streaming that the B8's sorely lacked; flat-bottom & fatter steering wheel (on the S-models); minor interior trim highlights; just to name a few.
    - Assuming the A5 is a 2.0T (not the 3.2 V6), even with a Stage 3 upgrade (K04 turbo), it will still be slower than the 3.0T supercharged S4/5's stock. Not to mention, a Stage 2 upgrade on the S4/5's are significantly cheaper than the 2.0T Stg3 and can easily get you into the low 12s in the 1/4 (depending on D/A's, often into the 11s too). Then there's the dual-pulley options on the 3.0T and the so-called APR Ultracharger (to be released in "2-weeks"), each of which under ideal conditions are sneaking the car into the 10s.

    Let me know if you have any more questions about the cars/models themselves. I would consider myself fairly competent with the A's & S-models, particularly the aftermarket world.


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