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Thread: 2015 Genesis Sedan V8 carbon issues

  1. #21
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    Originally posted by Abeo
    When you put fuel in it, are you stopping on the first click, or topping it up?
    First click always. I'm aware of that issues. The can related to over filling has already been changed as a attempted fix.

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    Originally posted by Tik-Tok


    Canada has no such law.

    It's not called lemon law, it's called camvap. Unfortunately not as agressive as lemon laws in California from what I've read

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    Originally posted by Phenix


    First click always. I'm aware of that issues. The can related to over filling has already been changed as a attempted fix.

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    Originally posted by revelations


    Yea I've been reading about this issues online - had no idea it was this bad. Apparently catch can is one step but the engine will require periodic cleanings regardless. Mist of distilled water through the intake would be a good first step in alleviating this issue.
    Yes I've read of these issues too. But my case is much more drastic. These carbon buildup issues usually come around 80k. Not the 20 or so times I've been in the shop with this stupid thing so far.

    As for the catch can, I agree, but at this point that will only buy me a few more days before the light goes on again. There is something else that's wrong with the car.

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    Originally posted by revelations


    Yea I've been reading about this issues online - had no idea it was this bad. Apparently catch can is one step but the engine will require periodic cleanings regardless. Mist of distilled water through the intake would be a good first step in alleviating this issue.
    A catch can won't help... You need a proper air and oil separator but even that won't stop it, it will just slow it down.

    But most people don't keep their cars long enough to see the effect. I cleaned my valves on my DI engine at 140k and they were gunked up but it wasn't effecting the way that the car was running. It ran perfect before and after they were done.

    OP has something seriously wrong with his car. It is surprising that Hyundai hasn't been able to fix this after so many issues.

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    I had a 2009 Genesis V6 sedan, total lemon. Non stop issues I ditched it annoyed after like 10 months. Somehow thought that buying a 2013 Genesis 2.0T coupe would be good as Hyundai has had another 4 years to improve. Turns out that was a hunk of shit lemon too. Sold it annoyed after about a year. Hyundai Canada was totally useless and just kept saying to work with the dealer who couldn't fix the reoccurring issues. I should've at least tried CAMVAP but I just wanted out of the cars.

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    Originally posted by Sentry
    Common DI car problem. Needs walnut blasting and a catchcan.
    While I agree that this will "fix" his issue (at least, temporarily) it makes me wonder why people buy DI engines. Sure, you might gain a couple of mpgs but is it really worth it to be hearing crickets and have carbon build up? Shouldn't have to do that on a new stock vehicle imo.

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    Originally posted by Sentry
    Common DI car problem. Needs walnut blasting and a catchcan.

    Even better would be to re route all the PCV stuff to an exhaust scavenger. They banned that with CAFE so dont tell anyone

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    My lowly EP3 Civic came with a simple, aftermarket PVC vent to atmosphere. From reading the discussion groups, apparently it causes no illl effects as far as mileage and keeps the engine internals a lot cleaner.

    Wonder if something like this would work without triggering a code in a late model car like this - as essentially its combustion blow-by + oil mist that your pumping back in the engine which is then collecting everywhere.

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    revelations the problem with venting to atmo is there is no vaccum draw on the crankcase. On really old cars they used something called a Road draft tube which was the first attempt to draw fumes from the crank.

    Research has shown that low pressure in the crankcase will increase efficiency, makes sense since there is less windage and air turbulence. Engines with dry sumps are especially good at this since the dry sump pump will keep sucking air once all the oil is out and create a very nice vaccum.

    This is why I recommend a proper exhaust scavenger. The flow of exhaust over the orifice will create the same vacuum effect.

    Plus there is less chance of dirt getting into your engine that just an open pipe.

    click for larger version
    » Click image for larger version

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    Originally posted by Sentry
    Common DI car problem. Needs walnut blasting and a catchcan.
    It's not common at all at 2-3000k. There were guys on the Focus ST forums going well over 60k without requiring walnut blasting. Deposits are a long term issue of DI engines but there's clearly something else going on with this guy's car.

    Personally I would cut bait and trade it in or sell it. Every manufacturer puts out lemons and as with most lemons the issues are often extremely hard to figure out if it's ever properly diagnosed and repaired.

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    i posted the solution to this many times before in other threads, its your oil, north america uses shitty oil, even VW/Audi dealers, same engine has different stickers for different markets

    premium fuel doesnt matter, nor do additives to fuel, its called direct injection for a reason lol

    what you want to buy is low saps oil, clean your engine, and pour in the VW dealer oil called castrol edge pro LL03, they use it in their tdi's. in europe this oil is used diesel or gas engine, i used it in my TTRS since day 1

    catch cans wont do anything

    is vw in canada still pouring in 502 spec oil? 507 spec is what you want http://www.oilspecifications.org/volkswagen.php

    read page19 in the PDF
    http://www.oil-club.ru/forum/index.p...ttach_id=49074
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    Originally posted by bart
    i posted the solution to this many times before in other threads, its your oil, north america uses shitty oil, even VW/Audi dealers, same engine has different stickers for different markets

    premium fuel doesnt matter, nor do additives to fuel, its called direct injection for a reason lol

    what you want to buy is low saps oil, clean your engine, and pour in the VW dealer oil called castrol edge pro LL03, they use it in their tdi's. in europe this oil is used diesel or gas engine, i used it in my TTRS since day 1

    catch cans wont do anything

    is vw in canada still pouring in 502 spec oil? 507 spec is what you want http://www.oilspecifications.org/volkswagen.php

    read page19 in the PDF
    http://www.oil-club.ru/forum/index.p...ttach_id=49074
    The problem with using 507.00 in his genesis is, it is the incorrect oil. The genesis oil spec is API SM GF-4 that is a low dynamic low saps oil.
    Most euro applications use a high dynamic oil that fall under ACEA and manufacture ratings. 507.00 will work good in a GDI engine that was designed for high dynamic oil. The genesis is not one of those engines.

    The genesis has low tension piston rings, 507.00 is too thick for them and cannot scrap all the oil off the cylinder walls. This will cause oil consumption and carbon build up on the rings resulting in even more oil consumption. High dynamic oil flows slower and cannot get into tighter tolerances, that will also cause problems.

    This misfire problem is not caused from carbon build up. Carbon builds up on the valve stem and prevents it from closing all the way causing a misfire. It is not possible to build up that much carbon in 3000 km.

  14. #34
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    well if he is definitely putting in low saps oil, then there is another problem lol

    change the oil yourself or watch the dealer pour it in, i would do that first

    does SN supercede SM? ie GF5 supercede GF4, then it would find that oil, says less sludge

    http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/api-sn.php

    GF-4/5 does not necessarily mean low saps

    http://www.penriteoil.com.au/product...d_products=250

    that one says its mid saps and its GF-5

    find a low saps GF-5 oil, clean out the carbon and see what happens, that would be my first step
    Last edited by bart; 02-01-2017 at 08:21 AM.
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    Originally posted by jacky4566
    revelations the problem with venting to atmo is there is no vaccum draw on the crankcase. On really old cars they used something called a Road draft tube which was the first attempt to draw fumes from the crank.

    Research has shown that low pressure in the crankcase will increase efficiency, makes sense since there is less windage and air turbulence. Engines with dry sumps are especially good at this since the dry sump pump will keep sucking air once all the oil is out and create a very nice vaccum.

    This is why I recommend a proper exhaust scavenger. The flow of exhaust over the orifice will create the same vacuum effect.
    jpg[/img]
    Thanks, will take a look at that.

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    well here's an update, i have about 40K on the car now and just had a crank case sensor changed along with a full cleaning again. Hyundai canada really seems to be screwing around here. I got the car back and have to do another oil change on the car. the last one was done at the dealership and a fuel injector cleaner was put in the time. they are requiring every change gets this injector cleaner. its still a very odd problem to have since no one else that has this car has had any problems like this.

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    well another update to my wonderful ongoing saga. got the car back from a full carbon cleaning and this time they changed the crank case sensor. well went on my road trip to BC and within the first 300 km on the trip out the engine light went off again. under a passing situation once again. now i need to get this friggin thing into the shop again for warranty.

  18. #38
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    Sounds like you need a full data log of all the sensors on board as you drive or move into the range that throws the CEL.

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    that has been done by the dealerships a few times

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    Wow, as from the windshield thread, I have the exact same car as you and have never had any of these issues. The one thing I do different from you is I run regular fuel most of the time as opposed to premium. Im sorry that youre experiencing these issues as its such a great car inside and out. Try running regular for a while as the car will de tune slightly to compensate. ( I read it goes from 420HP to 400HP on regular) and see if that changes anything.
    I MAKE BALLER CARS MORE BALLER.....

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