Actual image of ExtraSlow prior to truck hail damage...
Actual image of ExtraSlow prior to truck hail damage...
HOLY SHIT this truyck is still for sale. Listed for $6000 these days, and ad says he's "motivated". https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/...rew/1339545087This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
I'm still not interested, but I find this hilarious.
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Hahaha “body has 522,000 on it engine and tranny have less”. So like 475,000? Or...?
I paid less for one with 150k on it. Not that you’re interested as you said by 3v 5.4s are shite
NM reading back you did as I did and found out the hard way how garbage they are haha
just an update on the 5.4 truck in case anyone was curious. Tossed in some new spark plugs today and seems the stuttering issue is resolved. Couldn't induce it anymore no matter what I did. The old plugs looked like they'd been in there a while. Even found a little pebble down one of the holes. $60 fix is all it was.
The ticking looks to be the the last cylinder of the passenger side exhaust manifold. Probably won't bother with that for now, given that there's no affect on performance and the labor involved in removing the manifold
Don't see any symptoms at all of cam phasers going bad, so that's good. The codes it threw might've been for something else. Overall it looks to be in decent shape. No leaks, no abnormal spark plug wear, no unusual sounds. I'll probably just flush/change all the fluids and leave it that for now. Never a bad idea on any vehicle. Especially one with 300k km and zero records of service history. Might even cut the muffler out to block out the annoying manifold leak tick.
I like your plan and agree with your assessment.
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Not sure if you mentioned but is the tick you’re hearing all the time or just at start up? If it’s just at start up I agree it’s probably your manifold. If it’s not then it could be something worse. If it’s not I would check the hot oil pressure with a real gauge if you can. I have the exact symptom (tick near rear pass side). Ends up she’s got a really low hot idle oil pressure. Passenger head is the last point in the oil flow so that’s where you’ll notice it first.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Generally caused by bad hydraulic chain guides (leaking) exacerbated by clogged pre-2010 vct solenoids (if your truck is pre-2010).
Lots of fun.
Last edited by J-hop; 04-02-2018 at 06:06 PM.
The tick is loudest at start up, and then gone after a few seconds in idle. It only returns with throttle input once it's warmed up, which is why im suspecting the manifold. Head ticking would be there even during hot idle right?
Yea head ticking gets worse as it heats up and the oil thins out. Sounds like You’re lucky!
Nah, sounds like he's smart. Or smarter than me anyway.
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They’re pretty much a crap shoot unfortunately. I got caught as the t-stat was gone on the truck I bought so never really got it up to operating temp during the test drive in the winter. Figured I got it hot enough but I didn’t. Thank god I only spent 5k on it as it’s kind of 50/50 whether the passenger head is too far gone. Talking with 3 different ford techs apparently what they say is true - Can’t replace just the Cam and Cam bearings have to replace the head.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Not sure what you’re running for oil but the mantra that you must run 5w-20 is IMO utter bullshit. Fordtechmakuloco even recommends switching right away to a 5w-30 synthetic, doesn’t affect gas mileage or the VCT operation (he’s got data logs proving that on one of his vids). I’m running 5w-40 until I can rip it open. Zero effect on gas mileage from what I can tell- GPS verified I’ve been getting between 12.6-13 L/100 km (highway)this winter.
Last edited by J-hop; 04-03-2018 at 07:37 AM.
good to know, the spark plugs actually didn't solve the issue. I jumped on the party boat a bit too quick. Ended up being the VCT solenoids. Funny that it never through a code for that, even during the bogging. The oil screens looked great on them, but they were definitely sticking. Interestingly, dealership quoted me 6 hours of labor for this job ($1200 all in), whereas I did it in just over 2 hours, for the very first time. Another dealership even told me that they won't service a motor with this much mileage, and they'd only recommend a reman motor swap. Am I the only one who thinks that's ridiculous? Do they really not expect their motors to last this long? I'm expecting another 100k out if it, easy
The underside of the drivers side valve cover looked great, with fresh oil markings above the phaser, so I know it's definitely getting enough oil. The passenger side had less though. Possibly some sludge build up somewhere, so I dumped a can of seafoam into it and then did an oil change with 5w-30 and an OEM filter.
So far I've done:
Spark plugs $60
Coolant flush $100
VTC Solenoids $180
Oil change $80
It's gonna be my daily driver for the next couple months. I'm getting about 17-19L/100km city driving, according to the factory gauge. Not sure how reliable that is. Thanks for insight on Fordtechmakuloco. The guy really knows these trucks inside out.
Glad to hear bud. You are going to love that truck and I'm going to regret selling it to you.
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Yea that makuloco guy has been a godsend when it comes to the 5.4. His videos are great and he hits all the key problem areas with the 5.4.
Dealer said the same thing to me about a new engine. Passenger head makes a bit of noise at hot idle but quiet as a mouse until it’s warmed up. Still they refused to open up the front cover and do chain tensioners (likely cause of low oil pressure) chains and phasers as they said “your engine is probably too far gone”. My response was I paid 5k for the truck, I’m fine spending another 5k on repairs if that’s means I make it to 250k before looking at an engine replacement. They still didn’t want to touch it.
Hopefully it gets warm enough I can start tearing it apart. It’s slightly too long for my garage and I’m not about to pull things apart at -13 in my back alley.
I hate the 5.4’s problems but love the truck so it’s a battle I’m willing to fight
know what tho... I know a fleet of 3/4 tons with the 5.4 from 2009 pre-6.2 with the crappy 5r110 who have well over 350k km running just fine with the ticking noises. People say it can lead to worse conditions, but I think as long as the oil is changed with the normal Ford 5w-20 motorcrap semi-synth it'll last a long time. Its not like top end power is gone, nor the variation but rather issues as it stretched and can't come back to normal at idle.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
though I've read all sorts of conditions, and I do believe that with modern VCT solenoids and a cam phaser rebuild/timing chain (or lockout w/ a Tune) you can eliminate the issue, I wouldn't bother until its a must. I've not actually heard of a case where unburnt fuel is actually torching through the exhaust manifolds/cat.
all I know is, they thought the same, "run it till it breaks" and its still running all these years later. "Maybe" this cursed engine, granted with manifold and plug issues, was as good of a gas engine for a 1 ton in its era as the Hemi 5.7.
The 6.0 Vortec IMO is the standard for gas durability, but compared to the modern 6.4 and 6.2 from Dodge/Ford it no longer is.
Last edited by r3ccOs; 04-15-2018 at 09:19 PM.
I'm at 117K kms with my 5.4
The engine has been fine. My issues have been with other parts of the truck.
Had to replace the heated seat pad on the drivers side. Rear parking sensors don't work. It's not the sensor (replaced and moved it to other locations) but the harness. Rear camera seems to be the same issue.
Rusted to shit front bumper. The cancer is also spreading to the rear bumper and fender behind the rear wheel.
4x4 has intermittent issue where it grind in on shift on the fly. And then stays in when switch back to 2wd. I suspect a check valve or something. I finally replaced the battery after 7.5 years. haha, fucking thing stranded me at the airport after the truck sat for 10 days.
the most expensive repair was the rear door harnesses. Terrible design where the wires end up breaking. $250 for 2 harnesses. Or you end up with windows that don't work, locks that don't lock or door ajar notification all the time.
Crazy thing is that I have ordered another Ford. Tempted to keep mine as a beater until it dies.
My Tesla referral link: https://ts.la/moon14483
Tesla new owner FAQ: https://forums.beyond.ca/threads/411...37#post4928237