cool thanks, sold on that one then.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
cool thanks, sold on that one then.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Mine's been going strong for at least a couple years now, haven't even had to change the batteries. I only reset it because I moved but it has been great.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
just ordered a test kit through
https://evictradon.org/
$55 for a three month test + results.
The problem with the pucks is they are less accurate and don't do a good job of telling you what the long-term average is, which is the important part. If you happen to have low radon during those 3 months, you could carry on thinking you're fine when you aren't (or vise versa).This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Oh dang, good to know...This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
So electronic monitoring is the way to go?
We are in a newer house/ community, but from what I've read that doesn't matter?
Damn you Doug Lacey commercials
Yeah, that is the best way to do it without professional equipment. The electronic meters often go on sale for around $200. It gives you a 1-day reading, a rolling 7-day average, and a long-term average. You want to put it somewhere that isn't near open windows or high airflow. Slightly expensive I guess, but IMO the consequences of not knowing your radon levels has the potential to be pretty bad so I feel it's worth it. Just buy it from Amazon and if you don't feel like it's worth it after 30 days, return it for free.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
My parents did the puck and they later bought an electronic meter and they did not show the same results. Your radon is usually highest in the winter too, so if you do stick with the puck, at least it's more likely to show you a worst case scenario.
Is there a brand or company to source specifically?This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Get this one:This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00H30TLPA/..._ef5eEb2DVCVF9
Independent reviews as well as the local radon mitigation companies say it's the best. I have been using it for the last ~2 years as well and it's great.
cheersThis quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Yeah i used the pucks in my last place but didn't like them. That's why i ordered this electronic version to test my new place.
I actually just got an email back from one of the Radon mitigation companies and one of the things they said is that meter tests really well against their commercial equipment.
That’s correct you need to drill a hole in your house. It’s not as bad as it sounds- pick your location, drill a pilot hole, go from there. Hire that part if your worried and do the rest yourself.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
I ended up installing my own system (with help from my dad). Took about two hours. Hole was already in the slab, just had to drill out a 4" hole from the side of the house.
Basement went from 400+ to averaging about 15. A week or so ago I cleaned out my furnace room and noticed some minor cracks in the slab. Was too lazy to concrete up and used Flex Seal. Radon levels are down to 3-4.
Got this fan:
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00294RBFM/ref=dp_cerb_1
Got this manometer:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Got this monitor:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Picked up 4" PVC drain/sewer pipe (you should use the class 4 gas pipe if the lines are in a high traffic area) as all of my radon pipes are on the ceiling.
Spent about $500 total including the monitor etc.
All in all I am pretty happy and it was a fun little project.
So do you literally just pop one of those fans onto the roughed-in foundation pipe and then pipe the exit out of the house? That does sound relatively easy, minus my fear of drilling through my house haha.
I had those accustar canada pucks from Amazon. Put 3 around the house. Left them for 8 months to try and capture changes and seasons. I was below 100.
Cos...
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Yes but placement is important. Can't be within 2 meters of an intake or open window. That's the only part I had to ghetto rig a bit, but any of the "pros" would have run into the same problem based on the only real location the damn pipe could get be taken out.
Another really important thing to watch out for if you have stucco is that behind the stucco there is generally chicken wire (whatever its called) so when you are drilling once you HIT that, stop, get out the pliers and cut it manually. My pops already knew this otherwise I would've had a goddamn stucco mess in my exterior!
Here is a great resource for ideas and rules around radon mitigation:
https://carst.ca/resources/Documents...tractors-E.pdf
I attached my radon readings. You will see at the end it spiked, thats when I looked for cracks. After sealing, the reading for the last week or so has been under 5.
Last edited by imranm; 01-07-2020 at 04:27 PM.
Bathroom fans will not do anything to reduce radon levels. They work by lowering the pressure inside the house and outside air comes in wherever it can. That means some fresh air but also some air from below the slab. The end result is basically no difference to radon levels. To reduce radon levels you need to lower the pressure under the slab and move that air outside your house.
There was a mistake in the Best Buy flyer over Christmas and by hitting up a few different locations I was able to grab a few of the Corentium meters for $69.99 each. I've started a radon meter lending library out here in Vernon. All 4 meters are already committed for the next 12 months or so - seems a lot of people are worried about radon.
For the guy saying they wanted to re-use a central vacuum exhaust pipe - you can't. Typical pipe sizes for radon venting are 3" and 4" (4" being the most common and effective size), your central vacuum pipe isn't nearly big enough.
Originally posted by Vagabond142
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Most sites I find online recommend having the exhaust pipe go all the way to the roof line, did you DIYers do the same?
I believe that is code in some US states. No required here or needed IMO- make sure it doesn’t vent below a window or an intake pipe and you should be fine. Of course it should be vented where people don’t typically gather or spend time like a patio or deck. Mine is beside my house, other than the odd person passing by to the backyard it’s a safe location and I’m sure the levels are extremely low.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Yeah but then all the Radon builds up and then your house explodes.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote