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Thread: Amsoil vs Royal Purple vs synthetic oil

  1. #21
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    Originally posted by Mitsu3000gt
    These days, I am very much of the opinion that you will never see any negative effects over a vehicle's lifetime by using quality synthetic and regular change intervals, regardless of brand. I don't think there's ever been a case of "If Only I had used Amsoil or Royal Purple, X problem wouldn't have happened." Letting vehicles go crazy KM without oil/filter changes doesn't sit well with me, and voids warranty if you're on it.

    Dealer bulk full-synthetic and manufacturer recommended oil change intervals is what I do. I have never, and don't expect to ever, have issues. Nor would I ever own a car long enough where oil-related issues would occur.
    I agree. Most engines theses days last well past their warranty and most failures are caused by manufacturing defects, aftermarket modification, or neglect. Spending extra on designer oil isn't going to save your engine from failing if it was manufactured with defective parts or if you beat on it and change aftermarket parameters. Maybe it's piece of mind to some but at the end of the day it's just money wasted.

    We always have two cars. My wife's is always dealer serviced at manufacturer intervals and I have always done my own always in shorter intervals and typically more expensive oil than dealer bulk synthetic or dyno oil. None of her cars have ever failed or had lubrication issues despite her cars always having higher mileage due to it being more of a family hauler.

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    The standard for oil these days is so high anyway, if I had a regular non turbo car like my wifes old Accord I'd have no problem using whatever cheap dino oil that they have on sale at Canadian Tire. As long as it meets current API specs it's not like there's an oil out there that won't lubricate enough, it just might have less additives.

    Filters on the other hand, I never cheap out on

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    If anyone wants to go full nerd... this is a read... I don't think I've ever got through the whole thing

    https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

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    Never trust the guy who sells the product to give you reliable information on the product.

    Your warranty requires a certain oil change itnerval, and certain SAE specifications for that oil. Last I checked Amsoil doesn't have that SAE certification.
    Quote Originally Posted by killramos View Post
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    You realize you are talking to the guy who made his own furniture out of salad bowls right?

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    Well, i know what oil I am going to use in our winters...

    Boosted life tip #329
    Girlfriends cost money
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    Make the smart choice.

    Originally posted by Mibz
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    Interesting, but to be fair they tested oil rated for -30 at -40.

    Still though, poor showing for royal purple

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    Originally posted by btimbit
    Interesting, but to be fair they tested oil rated for -30 at -40.

    Still though, poor showing for royal purple
    agreed, and while -30 is more like a temperature we will see here, -40 is not out of the realm of possibility, and these are the oils that we would all be using.

    I am a big fan of Mobil 1 and use that whenever possible. Now I will be sure that it is in my truck between October and April of every year...LOL
    Boosted life tip #329
    Girlfriends cost money
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    Make the smart choice.

    Originally posted by Mibz
    Always a fucking awful experience seeing spikers. Extra awful when he laps me.

  8. #28
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    It's a dramatic test that makes a good video, but not really a great way to choose your lubricant. Making oil thinner is easy. Would be neat if the same dudes ran a similar test on fully hot oil, in which case you'd want the one that flowed slowest.

    Anyway, use an sae certified oil, plug in your block heater when it's cold, and change the oil according to the vehicle manufacturers recommended interval. If you do those things, you'll be fine in every season.
    Quote Originally Posted by killramos View Post
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    You realize you are talking to the guy who made his own furniture out of salad bowls right?

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    If you guys clicked my link up there you'd know that Mobil 1 is a consistently high performing oil

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    ^ I read parts of it and yea I will be switching to Mobile 1 (or back, I should say).

    Also goes to show how little viscosity ratings actually mean in real life.

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    Originally posted by ercchry
    If you guys clicked my link up there you'd know that Mobil 1 is a consistently high performing oil
    Its a very good Grade 3 Oil, where I think its additives make it a top performer

  12. #32
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    Originally posted by ercchry
    If you guys clicked my link up there you'd know that Mobil 1 is a consistently high performing oil
    According to that 5W-30 Pennzoil Ultra is probably the best overall performing oil for street use.

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    Yeah I usually go between Mobil 1 and Penzoil Platinum, whichever of the 2 are on sale. Both test very well

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    sPikers, is your friend open to extending that discount to other members? They sell a 5w50 I'd like to try. I'd PM you but it looks like you turned it off.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ercchry View Post
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    Should never come close to the factory interval on a turbo engine that sees towing duty, especially with our conditions, those eco boosts like fresh oil... I'd say anything you can buy at CT for synthetic is going to be really close... for me it's motul all the way. Proven oil, my shop of choice has tested many, many oils and they stand by it

    Edit: anyone remember when royal purple oil was really popular? "Duuude, my car is faster cause purple! Makes 10 more horse power!!!!"
    did they put in my Royal Purple Synthetic oil????

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    My thing is this. When is the last time you heard of Oil Failure being the cause of engine failure? Not loss of pressure, not loss of flow, but oil failure.

    Oil is Oil is Oil. Like its been said, whatevers on sale at CT.

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    I usually buy Castrol Edge titanium or whichever somewhat decent syn that CT has on sale. I think what a lot of people overlook is the filter. OEM or Bosch/Mobil 1 filters for me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hallowed_point View Post
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    I usually buy Castrol Edge titanium or whichever somewhat decent syn that CT has on sale. I think what a lot of people overlook is the filter. OEM or Bosch/Mobil 1 filters for me.
    The best testing ever done was by the original BobIsTheOilGuy.

    They took a brand new, 2002 Camaro SS. LS1 car, obviously. Did one oil change after the recommended break in period. Never changed the oil after. They did sample tests at the recommended oil change intervals and changed the oil filter at the same time, and then topped up during the filter change and anytime the level started to drop. Oil consumption was less than 1 litre every 5,000 miles or so.

    60k miles on the car and they gave up, everything was fine, and the LS1 runs hot from the factory (fans don't kick in until 210*). With modern day motors and how little blowby they suffer, along with better oils overall, it really does come down to making sure your filter isn't plugged.

    I run all my diesels to 15k kms on a single synthetic oil change. Cars are 10k kms.

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiTempguy1 View Post
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    The best testing ever done was by the original BobIsTheOilGuy.

    They took a brand new, 2002 Camaro SS. LS1 car, obviously. Did one oil change after the recommended break in period. Never changed the oil after. They did sample tests at the recommended oil change intervals and changed the oil filter at the same time, and then topped up during the filter change and anytime the level started to drop. Oil consumption was less than 1 litre every 5,000 miles or so.

    60k miles on the car and they gave up, everything was fine, and the LS1 runs hot from the factory (fans don't kick in until 210*). With modern day motors and how little blowby they suffer, along with better oils overall, it really does come down to making sure your filter isn't plugged.

    I run all my diesels to 15k kms on a single synthetic oil change. Cars are 10k kms.
    I believe it. Once I did the LS6 intake/pcv conversion on my 98 my oil consumption went down to basically nothing. Sent a sample in to Blackstone Labs and my engine showed next to no wear even at 100,000 hard miles. After that I went from changing oil/filter every 4 months to every 6. Yeah my LT1 runs a tad hot stock for emissions and fuel economy but I rarely hear high speed fans unless I'm stuck in heavy traffic in summer heat.
    Last edited by Hallowed_point; 12-03-2018 at 03:32 PM.

  20. #40
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    I run Mobil 1, bought when on sale at Can Tire, for all my vehicles. Filters are always Wix.

    The only vehicle that gets changed based on distance traveled is our 2011 Edge and I go by the oil life indicator at 15%. That usually works out to 14-16k between changes. 170k on it now and runs great, no engine issues or leaks. Oil looks great when it comes out, especially compared to the 5000km oil that comes out of the direct injected Mazdaspeed. Edge is dark brown compared to the stinky black shit that comes out of the Mazda.
    Mike
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