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Thread: Bike build and maintenance

  1. #201
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    Dum q on the flo website prices.
    1. Under the rims 50% off the flo45 are $399 - description is flo 45 carbon clincher rim. Under the “carbon clincher rim -> rim brake, the same front/rear flo 45 are $574/624 respectively. Are these the same wheel?

    Drilling into the tech wheel specs the weight is different so what are you getting on the $399 sale price that differs from the full price set?

    Also these are usd prices right? The Contact us gives a Nevada location.
    I just added both of these to the cart and the sale rim doesn’t have spokes in the picture. So I’m guessing it’ll need spokes etc where the non sale version has everything you need

  2. #202
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    Yeah, prices are in USD.
    These I believe are the same wheel. The difference is the rim you are just getting the rim without the spokes or hub, whereas the wheels you are getting a built wheelset.

    Or you can buy the blemish sale wheels they have if you're looking for a deal.

  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by 997TT View Post
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    Dum q on the flo website prices.
    1. Under the rims 50% off the flo45 are $399 - description is flo 45 carbon clincher rim. Under the “carbon clincher rim -> rim brake, the same front/rear flo 45 are $574/624 respectively. Are these the same wheel?

    Drilling into the tech wheel specs the weight is different so what are you getting on the $399 sale price that differs from the full price set?

    Also these are usd prices right? The Contact us gives a Nevada location.
    I just added both of these to the cart and the sale rim doesn’t have spokes in the picture. So I’m guessing it’ll need spokes etc where the non sale version has everything you need
    One is a rim alone, one is a wheel (i.e, spokes, and hub and freehub (for rear)). I'd be looking at the demo or blemished ones personally..

  4. #204
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    Ya I signed up for newsletter. Maybe a sale or deal to be had.
    Flo 45 CC blemish demo are $1098. Flo 45 CC new are $1198. $50 less each wheel

  5. #205
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    I have quite a few tri buddies with FLO wheels. They're quite happy with them.
    Careful with the carbon brake track though; After a few sketchy rides in the rain on carbon ZIPPs, Reynolds, etc. I do all my training rides on a set of Giant PSLR's since they have an aluminum brake track.
    Just food for thought if you're looking at one wheelset to do it all - but no worries if you're a fair weather rider. haha.

  6. #206
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    Good tip. I was gonna put this set on the used road bike I bought. Rim brakes and no mud guards so it’s my fair weather bike.
    My Cx Is my rain/winter bike as it has wider fenders for my winters, disc brakes and mud guards

    Man I am not looking fwd to riding in the winter. These near zero mornings are cold enough

  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by CLiVE View Post
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    I do all my training rides on a set of Giant PSLR's since they have an aluminum brake track.
    Giant Pumpkin Spice Latte Racing?

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by Penguin_Racecar View Post
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    Giant Pumpkin Spice Latte Racing?
    Fair - given the number of times I find myself at starbucks post ride. lol I kind of want to make a pumpkin spice latte racing jersey now.

    https://www.velonews.com/2013/03/new...-wheels_277536
    Good value, do it all aero wheel. I'm running them tubeless on 25's.

  9. #209
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    Do they still make those? I only see the slr 1 aero which is full carbon now, still pretty good value.

    Almost crap my pants descending on mud/gravel in the rain with my carbon wheels recently. I'm not sure if aluminum rim brakes are a whole lot better, still pretty bad from my experience. If I plan on riding in the wet often, I would get disc brakes no question. Actually if I do a lot of descent which requires braking dry or wet I would choose disc brakes, so easy on your hands.

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by lilmira View Post
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    Do they still make those? I only see the slr 1 aero which is full carbon now, still pretty good value.

    Almost crap my pants descending on mud/gravel in the rain with my carbon wheels recently. I'm not sure if aluminum rim brakes are a whole lot better, still pretty bad from my experience. If I plan on riding in the wet often, I would get disc brakes no question. Actually if I do a lot of descent which requires braking dry or wet I would choose disc brakes, so easy on your hands.
    I don't think they do make them. But I see them pop up on ebay/forums all the time nearly brand new. Many see them as a 'take off' set since they come stock on a few bikes.
    I paid $800? for my set. With carbon rim brakes - the scary part is when you initially hit the brakes there is nothing there, until the wheel goes around a few once and dries the surface a bit.
    Shimano C50's are also a good all-round set. Agree with your comments on discs though - nice that most races finally allow them.

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by J-hop View Post
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    Anyone have any unique ideas for smartphone mounting?

    Trying to come up with something for my road bike. I have a small top tube bag that i’d Like to keep so I’d prefer to avoid using a top tube mount (I currently have the phone in the top tube bag as it has a clear cover for phones but pressing buttons is too difficult and it’s hard to see the screen)

    I also seem to prefer top tube descending. For me it seems to be the fastest and most comfortable. This would also mean a top tube mount likely wouldn’t work and I can’t have a standard stem mount as when I top tube decent I’m essentially laying my chest down on the stem.

    The only thing I can think of is taking a quad lock handle bar mount, pulling it apart and inverting it so that the phone sits below the handlebars if that makes sense ( as my head/chin hangs over the bars a bit when descending).

    https://www.amazon.ca/Quad-Lock-Moto...lock+handlebar


    Anyone have any other ideas?
    I have this
    https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Bike-Stem-Co...53.m2749.l2649

    Just an el cheapo mount for my phone for bombing around town. It works just fine if you have a second phone case to 3M it to.

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by sneek View Post
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    I have this
    https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Bike-Stem-Co...53.m2749.l2649

    Just an el cheapo mount for my phone for bombing around town. It works just fine if you have a second phone case to 3M it to.
    Yea but not sure if that would work well though, as I mentioned I can’t have anything on top of the stem or top tube


    Think I’m going to order a quad lock out front mount, probably will work best from what I’ve seen in my searches
    Last edited by J-hop; 08-29-2018 at 04:44 PM.

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by Penguin_Racecar View Post
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    Power meter is nice to have if you're serious about training. Either way I would have cranks on the list as the Gossamers are pretty heavy. I'd get a 4iiii 105 crank to match the rest of your drivetrain - I love mine and they're good value. Chain rings for the 5800 series are expensive though.
    Do i have to worry about compatibility with my bottom bracket?

  14. #214
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    Depends which spindle size you have with your gossamer. I think they made the gossamer in a 24mm spindle and now i think they are all the 30mm spindle. All Shimano cranks run a 24mm spindle so if your current bike has 30mm then you will have to change the BB out to one that does 24mm. The other thing to check if you are going to do that is make sure that the bike has enough clearance to the chainstays to run a crank based power meter.

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigboom View Post
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    make sure that the bike has enough clearance to the chainstays to run a crank based power meter.
    This - good advice.

  16. #216
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    IS there a mountain biking thread all up in here somewhere?

  17. #217
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    Why would we need a separate mountain bike thread? Build and maintenance is pretty much the same.

  18. #218
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    Been having some issues with my commuter of late, getting chain slip (feels like the chain jumps a tooth) anytime I'm putting the power down and got worse and worse as the weeks went on.
    So this weekend, changed the freewheel cassette and new chain, but still getting a bit of slip. Could it be the front chain ring is also too worn? Or is there something else I'm missing? It's a freewheel cassette, so its essentially a brand new freewheel. Not sure what other moving parts there could be that could cause a slip/jump.

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by buh_buh View Post
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    Been having some issues with my commuter of late, getting chain slip (feels like the chain jumps a tooth) anytime I'm putting the power down and got worse and worse as the weeks went on.
    So this weekend, changed the freewheel cassette and new chain, but still getting a bit of slip. Could it be the front chain ring is also too worn? Or is there something else I'm missing? It's a freewheel cassette, so its essentially a brand new freewheel. Not sure what other moving parts there could be that could cause a slip/jump.
    Check the teeth on your chain ring, could be as simple as a bent tooth that needs to be straightened and since its a commuter wouldn't have to replace it as you could probably get it back in place.

  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by buh_buh View Post
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    Been having some issues with my commuter of late, getting chain slip (feels like the chain jumps a tooth) anytime I'm putting the power down and got worse and worse as the weeks went on.
    So this weekend, changed the freewheel cassette and new chain, but still getting a bit of slip. Could it be the front chain ring is also too worn? Or is there something else I'm missing? It's a freewheel cassette, so its essentially a brand new freewheel. Not sure what other moving parts there could be that could cause a slip/jump.
    Bent derailleur?

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