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Thread: Bike build and maintenance

  1. #301
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    probably compact as it is for my FIL who is not really fit for standard.
    unfortunately 172.5 is too big for him though as he's only 5'4. interested on the BB if you have one though

  2. #302
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    Quote Originally Posted by taemo View Post
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    probably compact as it is for my FIL who is not really fit for standard.
    unfortunately 172.5 is too big for him though as he's only 5'4. interested on the BB if you have one though
    I'll check on the BB. I know I have a bunch of them - put a note in my calendar to check tonight. (horrible at remembering...and guess I still have to look the pedals up too as per above ^^)

  3. #303
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    Has anyone build or have someone else build them a wheel before?

    Looking at some 28 hole rear disc brake hub (straight pull spoke) and from their documentation it provides a formula to calculate the spoke length based on the rim's ERD. That is assuming the rim profile is symmetric.

    From taemo's post on those Hunt wheels on the other thread, this asymmetric disc brake rim got me interested:
    https://www.huntbikewheels.cc/collec...deep-24wide-69
    ERD 596mm, spoke hole offset by 3mm

    So back to the hub spoke length formula, ERD of 596 yields 302.9373 mm +/- as required for washers / nipples for symmetric 28 hole setup. Does mean that I need to look for 14x 299.9373 mm spokes and 14x 305.9373 mm spokes?

    Or should I just let the wheel build shop to figure out and order the spokes?

  4. #304
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    I had a set of wheels built for my mountain bike years ago and all I did was supply the hubs and rims, specified the spoke pattern and spoke colour I wanted, then let the shop figure out and supply the spokes.

  5. #305
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    Anyone with any ideas on where I can get parts for a Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub from the 80's? I am fixing up an old folding bike for bombing around town and stripped the hub nut. Apparently it is a super common occurrence but Bike and Brew was at a bit of a loss as to where I might be able to find a bolt like this. The actual part is cheap in the UK but getting it to Canada is $20+ in shipping on a $5 nut. Sturmey Archer Axle Nut - 13/32 Inch - HMN128

  6. #306
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    hey guys looking for some input. i would like to get a left sided power meter for my commuter bike, 2015 kona JTS. pedals are not an option (as far as i know) because i need the SPD cleats for walking around. a left crank arm power meter probably makes the most sense. only thing is the bike still has the stock FSA gossamer crank and i haven't come across one that would be compatible with this crank. 1) any other options for me? 2) would it be worthwhile to swap out the crankset say for 105 and then get a compatible PM (there are options from 4iiii and stages for 105s). 3) anyone have a good/cheap crankset to offload?

    these are the specs of the commuter: http://2015.konaworld.com/jake_the_snake.cfm

  7. #307
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    I have a dumb question. I'm almost embarrassed to ask.

    My trail bike has been hanging on my wall for almost two years. I have not been able to ride due to health issues. Its pretty new, not used it over 10 times.
    My question was, what sort of maintenance would I need to consider if I started riding again? In the UK we have this spray oil for the gears. I would normally use this to lube the chain. Ive not seen such a product here.
    What would I use?

  8. #308
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    inflate the tires and go for a test ride around your neighbour.
    just make sure brakes still works and gears are shifting.

    old me would just spray WD-40 on the gears, now a days I use this and spray it on the rear cassette and chain
    https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5054-8...ons-Chain-Lube

  9. #309
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonytiger55 View Post
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    I have a dumb question. I'm almost embarrassed to ask.

    My trail bike has been hanging on my wall for almost two years. I have not been able to ride due to health issues. Its pretty new, not used it over 10 times.
    My question was, what sort of maintenance would I need to consider if I started riding again? In the UK we have this spray oil for the gears. I would normally use this to lube the chain. Ive not seen such a product here.
    What would I use?
    How did you hang it on the wall? If by the wheels, I'd check to see if they're still true.

    Another Beyonder stored his bike by hanging them from the wheels in the garage for years and when he finally decided to take it down to ride, they were all out of whack and warped. Other than that, I'd just make sure all the moving parts are moving freely: headset, bottom bracket, chain, cables.

  10. #310
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    Quote Originally Posted by D'z Nutz View Post
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    How did you hang it on the wall? If by the wheels, I'd check to see if they're still true.

    Another Beyonder stored his bike by hanging them from the wheels in the garage for years and when he finally decided to take it down to ride, they were all out of whack and warped. Other than that, I'd just make sure all the moving parts are moving freely: headset, bottom bracket, chain, cables.
    Not really the wall. Its sitting on its rear tire and front is hooked.
    Its on a bike rack I built.
    I need to buy a pump. But I'l see if the front wheel is ok. Thanks for the tips.

    20151015_201408_20151015201624565.jpg

  11. #311
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    Quote Originally Posted by kJUMP View Post
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    hey guys looking for some input. i would like to get a left sided power meter for my commuter bike, 2015 kona JTS. pedals are not an option (as far as i know) because i need the SPD cleats for walking around. a left crank arm power meter probably makes the most sense. only thing is the bike still has the stock FSA gossamer crank and i haven't come across one that would be compatible with this crank. 1) any other options for me? 2) would it be worthwhile to swap out the crankset say for 105 and then get a compatible PM (there are options from 4iiii and stages for 105s). 3) anyone have a good/cheap crankset to offload?

    these are the specs of the commuter: http://2015.konaworld.com/jake_the_snake.cfm
    Think Stages and P2M makes a FSA compatible left side PM. You look into those 2 brands yet?

  12. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by buh_buh View Post
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    Think Stages and P2M makes a FSA compatible left side PM. You look into those 2 brands yet?
    stages doesn't have a FSA gossamer crank arm - instead they use FSA energy. would it work to mix and match? i guess on the MEC website it says the crank would be compatible with all BB30 crank models...

    https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5047-3...hoCR4AQAvD_BwE

    edit: ugh MEC doesn't have the 172.5mm which mine is...

    edit 2: this guy on youtube did the gossamer/energy mix and it seems to have worked https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrGrqv1BGyk
    Last edited by kJUMP; 05-07-2019 at 03:51 PM.

  13. #313
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    yea pretty sure you can mix and match crank arms. I've seen guys run Dura Ace or Ultegra cranks with a 105 Stages crank arm. But you're right - as long as you have the same bottom bracket it should work.

  14. #314
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    Just ordered this exact combination for a customer and it works just fine. Alternatively, I've got a 6800 crank set with a 4iiii PM on it that I am looking at moving.

  15. #315
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    We need a spare part for sale thread available to everyone to post what they have sitting around and available. I would be extremely poor though as I love hoarding parts.

  16. #316
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    Kjump, just got this in my email.

    BE4F3831-833E-4B1A-A088-EEB933FAA0DF.jpg

  17. #317
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    Quote Originally Posted by buh_buh View Post
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    We need a spare part for sale thread available to everyone to post what they have sitting around and available. I would be extremely poor though as I love hoarding parts.
    +1
    I have nothing sitting around... need to start my hoarding somewhere.
    Originally posted by max_boost
    Hey baller, any problem money can solve is no problem at all. Don't sweat it.

  18. #318
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    Quote Originally Posted by buh_buh View Post
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    We need a spare part for sale thread available to everyone to post what they have sitting around and available. I would be extremely poor though as I love hoarding parts.
    That's a brilliant idea! There's been more than a few times when I bought something only for someone else here to say afterwards they had one sitting around collecting dust.

    I bet @CLiVE and @lilmira have lots of stuff sitting around haha

  19. #319
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigboom View Post
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    Just ordered this exact combination for a customer and it works just fine. Alternatively, I've got a 6800 crank set with a 4iiii PM on it that I am looking at moving.
    just to clarify, your customer had the fsa gossamer crank and then you installed a left sided fsa energy PM? out of interest what are the details on your ultegra crank and 4iiii PM. i know the earlier gen 4iiii units had issues with water resistance etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by buh_buh View Post
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    Kjump, just got this in my email.

    BE4F3831-833E-4B1A-A088-EEB933FAA0DF.jpg
    thanks man, i had a look. not sure if it would be compatible because of 386evo config vs mine is BB30 (unless get adapters etc). if the stages fsa energy left PM works with my current setup i'm tempted to do that, least amount of hassle and available at MEC.

  20. #320
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    tech question for you bike geeks...

    this is my el cheapo spare parts bike buildup hardtail for a vintage Gary Fisher G2 29er frame:

    Tubeless rim conversion running 2.35 tires
    40mm stem (down from the 110 crazy long one)
    Vintage BB7 mech brakes
    SRAM attack shifters on a SLX front der and older XT 760 rear der 3x9 (well 2x9 as I Did a bashguard for the 3rd chain ring)
    Reverb post
    new Fisik saddle and new cranbros mallets

    two questions:

    1. Is it worth while to upgrade to a newerish XT derailleur from this vintage XT 760 9 speed? Or should I just save my cash and do a 1x conversion next year to a SLX/XT 1x11?

    2. Cranks... I have a Raceface crank I want to put on, and this thing still has a vintage crank with a square taper internal hub... Is it as simple as removing it, getting a hollowtech BB and using the spacers to make sure it fits on the shell? (i.e. using the spacer from 68-73?)

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