Bike build and maintenance

[lilmira]

They'd better be on a bike that's being ridden than sitting in my basement. Let's get that boy rolling soon lol.

[taemo]

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They'd better be on a bike that's being ridden than sitting in my basement. Let's get that boy rolling soon lol.

he installed the front wheel already, he would have mounted the other one if only his current group set wasn't 7 speed freewheel haha

i'll post pictures of the bike once it's done next week!

[taemo]

Found a potential frame for the wife, according to manufacturer's catalog, BB is Cartridge Bottom Bracket, BC1.37”*24T 68mm/122.5mm.
This is just a different naming convention for regular 68mm english thread BB correct?

[XylathaneGTR]

Been a very slow build - but it's finally alive so I thought i'd join the club.





Built as a bit of a town-bike / gym commuter that I'll feel a bit more comfortable with leaving outside...and also as a fun project because I've never built up a bike before!

Started life as a neglected 2014 Spesh Crosstrail Disc and ended up as a wacky drop-bar rigid-fork hybrid, official name is Juliette.
Made up of a mix of new parts and things I had lying around...special thanks to D'zNutz for getting me in on his fork order!

I'm thinking I'll need to pick up a longer seat post before I spend too much time on it, but otherwise i'm REALLY happy with how it turned out (especially considering that I built it, haha!)

[D'z Nutz]

[taemo]

nice detail with the cable housing too! what groupset are you running on that?

[Brent.ff]

The new Kona ROVE LTD color is making me think long and hard about that frame..

http://www.konaworld.com/rove_ltd.cfm

or i may plastidip my current rove.. Priced out a 105 groupset (minus brakes) upgrade to the bike, unsure if its worth doing that or just look to a new bike. How would a higher-end groupset handle winter riding? Or should i just beat the hell out of the rove this winter and upgrade next spring?

[Strider]

A few noob questions - I have a 12-25 9 speed cassette and 50/34 crankset with the most recent gen Sora derailleurs and I'm finding that I could use more range (the lowest gear isn't low enough for steep uphills and the highest gear could be higher for fast downhills).

How do I know what cassettes are compatible? Is there much difference between 11-30 and 11-32?
What other parts will I need (new chain?) and do I need any special tools?

[D'z Nutz]

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The new Kona ROVE LTD color is making me think long and hard about that frame..

http://www.konaworld.com/rove_ltd.cfm

or i may plastidip my current rove.. Priced out a 105 groupset (minus brakes) upgrade to the bike, unsure if its worth doing that or just look to a new bike. How would a higher-end groupset handle winter riding? Or should i just beat the hell out of the rove this winter and upgrade next spring?

Oh man, that's hot. I looked into plastidipping bikes before and read it doesn't take much to get them peeling, especially if you're riding where there's lots of gravel, so it could be a waste of time. However, I've also read if you prep and add enough layers it's pretty durable. Having never used plastidip before, I don't know how much truth there is to either statement.

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A few noob questions - I have a 12-25 9 speed cassette and 50/34 crankset with the most recent gen Sora derailleurs and I'm finding that I could use more range (the lowest gear isn't low enough for steep uphills and the highest gear could be higher for fast downhills).

How do I know what cassettes are compatible? Is there much difference between 11-30 and 11-32?
What other parts will I need (new chain?) and do I need any special tools?

To keep it easy, as long as you go from a 9 speed cassette to another 9 speed cassette, it should be compatible. If you get a 10 or 11 speed cassette, you'll need a new shifter and derailleur (and possibly a new hub/rear wheel). Yeah, there's a noticeable difference between 11-30 and 11-32 when you're going up those steep hills.

If your chain is in good shape, you shouldn't need a new one but you'll probably have to add some links. You'll just need a chain whip and a centre lock tool to put in a new cassette, and a chain breaker if you're adding chain links.

[CLiVE]

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A few noob questions - I have a 12-25 9 speed cassette and 50/34 crankset with the most recent gen Sora derailleurs and I'm finding that I could use more range (the lowest gear isn't low enough for steep uphills and the highest gear could be higher for fast downhills).

How do I know what cassettes are compatible? Is there much difference between 11-30 and 11-32?
What other parts will I need (new chain?) and do I need any special tools?

Not positive on a 9spd setup...but you may need a longer reach rear derailleur (medium or long cage) to run the 11-32. You might be okay with the 11-30.
Tools wise, you will need a cassette tool and a chain whip.

[Brent.ff]

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Oh man, that's hot. I looked into plastidipping bikes before and read it doesn't take much to get them peeling, especially if you're riding where there's lots of gravel, so it could be a waste of time. However, I've also read if you prep and add enough layers it's pretty durable. Having never used plastidip before, I don't know how much truth there is to either statement..

ya i may do this as my next project..i plastidipped my taco wheels, and they've been good for 2 years.

the major jake is same sexy color, but carbon..
http://www.konaworld.com/major_jake.cfm

[Strider]

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To keep it easy, as long as you go from a 9 speed cassette to another 9 speed cassette, it should be compatible. If you get a 10 or 11 speed cassette, you'll need a new shifter and derailleur (and possibly a new hub/rear wheel). Yeah, there's a noticeable difference between 11-30 and 11-32 when you're going up those steep hills.

If your chain is in good shape, you shouldn't need a new one but you'll probably have to add some links. You'll just need a chain whip and a centre lock tool to put in a new cassette, and a chain breaker if you're adding chain links.

Will definitely stick with a 9 speed for simplicity and cost. Most (or all) the 11-32 I'm finding are MTB cassettes, does that make a difference?

[CLiVE]

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Not positive on a 9spd setup...but you may need a longer reach rear derailleur (medium or long cage) to run the 11-32. You might be okay with the 11-30.
Tools wise, you will need a cassette tool and a chain whip.

Okay - Sora details: (Specs http://www.wiggle.com/shimano-sora-9...ar-derailleur/

Derailleur capacity needed is biggest chain ring - smallest chain ring + (biggest cog - smallest cog)

31 tooth total capacity, rear sprocket size range 11-27T (Short Cage)
41 tooth total capacity, rear sprocket size range 11-32T (Medium Cage)

Are you running a compact crankset? 50-34?
So (50-34)+(32-11) = 37 or (50-34)+(30-11) = 35

So either way you'll need the medium cage rear derailleur I think....

[taemo]

+1,
you can run 11-28 on a short cage, but once you go 30+ then you will need a medium cage

im finding that 50/34 might be too light for me as well on 11-28 cassette, and losing some top speed (I feel faster on the 52/42/36 + 12-25 on the JTS)

[XylathaneGTR]

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nice detail with the cable housing too! what groupset are you running on that?

Thanks! I think it really pops (and compliments my shitty bar wrapping skills!) Tiagra 4700 2x10; 50/34 up front and 11-34 in the back (I like my range, haha). Brakes are SRAM with SLX rotors.

[Strider]

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Okay - Sora details: (Specs http://www.wiggle.com/shimano-sora-9...ar-derailleur/

Derailleur capacity needed is biggest chain ring - smallest chain ring + (biggest cog - smallest cog)

31 tooth total capacity, rear sprocket size range 11-27T (Short Cage)
41 tooth total capacity, rear sprocket size range 11-32T (Medium Cage)

So either way you'll need the medium cage rear derailleur I think....

That one might be the last gen of Sora rear mech, I think I've got this one:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/c.../rp-prod150050
http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-...-r3000-ss.html

By these specs, I think I should be able to run the 11-32 on the short cage?

[D'z Nutz]

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ya i may do this as my next project..i plastidipped my taco wheels, and they've been good for 2 years.

the major jake is same sexy color, but carbon..
http://www.konaworld.com/major_jake.cfm

Nice. How many coats of plastidip did you do on your wheels? Let us know how it turns out on the bike. I'm interested in knowing myself.

[blitz]

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+1,
you can run 11-28 on a short cage, but once you go 30+ then you will need a medium cage

im finding that 50/34 might be too light for me as well on 11-28 cassette, and losing some top speed (I feel faster on the 52/42/36 + 12-25 on the JTS)

50T/11T should give you a higher top speed than 52T/12T, shouldn't it?

[Brent.ff]

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Nice. How many coats of plastidip did you do on your wheels? Let us know how it turns out on the bike. I'm interested in knowing myself.

like 6 or 7, don't remember..a lot

[taemo]

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50T/11T should give you a higher top speed than 52T/12T, shouldn't it?

That's what I've read too but I can't sustain being on the 50T most of the time yet
I noticed that on the 3x9 I stay on the 42T/14T most of the time in the city and on 2x10 I find the sweet spot to be 34T/11T or 50T/21T or 50T/19T. so maybe the question is am I cross-chaining too much?

so when on the city, i find that i stay on the smallest chainring but end up going to the 2 smallest cogs most of the time.