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Thread: Bike build and maintenance

  1. #341
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    Don't be scared, embrace it lol. d fly is a must with di2. You can see your gearing and battery level on your computer. It also beeps to let you know before you hit the last gear or before the FD shifts in synchro mode. The latest ultegra di2 shifters have the hidden buttons that you can customize, super sweet.

  2. #342
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    Anyone running 650B tires care to comment how you like it?

  3. #343
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    lilmira where did you put your dfly? Guessing the closer it is to the head unit the better. I've got it sitting near the bb right now, but wondering if there's going to be interference there.

  4. #344
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    That's how they did it for me on 3 bikes. I haven't had any issue. Well there might have been 1 or 2 times with funky connection but that could be with Garmin.

  5. #345
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    k maybe I'll just give it a try in the bb with an option to move to the seatpost using a long di2 cable to connect it. If that becomes an issue I'll move it to the handlebar, I've just got everything wired up right now with the bike completely disassembled, and doing the internal wiring for the handlebar was brutal. Probably took me 3-4 hours to do all the di2 wires and brake cables.

  6. #346
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    oh yeah, I remember the guy complaining about the difficulty of installing the end plug junction for me, money well spent lol.

  7. #347
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    Well... finally built a downhill bike... of sorts


    Picked up a couple parts:
    52D94D10-8C2A-4A23-8BA3-2B7323BFA407.jpg

    Then tore this useless thing down:
    BAE47D22-9A8A-43A4-9164-108DC4865218.jpg

    Then tinkered a little and ended up with this:
    109EB370-DA9F-4A8E-9555-E690D7761CE8.jpg

    Old school 24/26” wheel combo banshee scream V1

    Just need to locate a front brake, and get new pads for the rear... then maybe some safety gear and I’m ready to try this shit out!

    Didn’t want to invest a whole lot for my first bike, but if I like it I shouldn’t lose any money on what I’m invested into this for when it’s time to upgrade
    Last edited by ercchry; 05-27-2019 at 10:26 PM.

  8. #348
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    9DFFD9A0-CD85-4D62-9596-935B300CBB03.jpg

    Well that escalated quickly... guide RS all around, when I was grabbing adapters to run 210mm front and 180mm rear I grabbed some new grips too, old ones were gross and migrated a ways inwards. These brakes are waaay better than the old hayes nines

  9. #349
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    So my new whip has 'tubeless ready wheels'. Is tubeless worth it for a roadie, knowing that i'd have to get new tires and such?

  10. #350
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    At this point for true road tubeless I'm going to say no because the high pressures from what I've seen make it difficult for sealant to do it's job, gravel I'm on board with because of the lower pressures . I'm sure someone will chime in with a yes but for me the downsides are too big for road tubeless at the moment. Take a look at the whole Enve tubeless fiasco, lawsuits everywhere because of it. The lack of standards across tire and wheel manufacturers has caused a big rift in the industry where many tires aren't compatible with many rims, the industry is starting to adopt standards and it looks like Mavic's UST standard might win but other manufacturers will probably fight it tooth and nail.

    For the road...I still prefer tubulars or latex tubes instead of butyl.

  11. #351
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    I tried tubeless and I'm back to clincher and tube. For me, the ease of changing a tube beats the benefit of tubeless.

  12. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigboom View Post
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    I'm sure someone will chime in with a yes but for me the downsides are too big for road tubeless at the moment..
    ...And ya, I'm that guy.

    After 3 flats in Ironman Canada a few years ago I converted all my bikes to road tubeless and no looking back. But agree it does come down the the rim/tire combo that you're running to ensure compatibility.
    The early tubeless tires (mostly Hutchinson) were a pain in the ass to get on the rim. The schwalbe pro ones, and Conti tires are way easier to mount. Last set I did not need a tire lever and could roll it on the rim.
    Anyways...my choice for long unsupported rides of 180 - 250km. I still carry 1 spare tube, patch kit and a tire boot.

    Latex tubes - I wasn't a fan because of heat fluctuations. Had tubes blow on me twice while my tri bike was sitting in transition. Maybe i'm doing something wrong....
    Last edited by CLiVE; 05-30-2019 at 10:01 AM.

  13. #353
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    Quote Originally Posted by CLiVE View Post
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    ...And ya, I'm that guy.

    After 3 flats in Ironman Canada a few years ago I converted all my bikes to road tubeless and no looking back. But agree it does come down the the rim/tire combo that you're running to ensure compatibility.
    The early tubeless tires (mostly Hutchinson) were a pain in the ass to get on the rim. The schwalbe pro ones, and Conti tires are way easier to mount. Last set I did not need a tire lever and could roll it on the rim.
    Anyways...my choice for long unsupported rides of 180 - 250km. I still carry 1 spare tube, patch kit and a tire boot.

    Latex tubes - I wasn't a fan because of heat fluctuations. Had tubes blow on me twice while my tri bike was sitting in transition. Maybe i'm doing something wrong....
    Have you noticed a significant decrease on flats?

  14. #354
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brent.ff View Post
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    Have you noticed a significant decrease on flats?
    I have not had a flat in 3 seasons and 4 ironmans....
    In all my years of road riding at ~10-15k per year. I've only had a catastrophic tire (not tube) failure twice from road debris cutting the tire. If that happens I have the tire boot and a backup tube.
    I do inspect my tires pre/post ride for any small cuts, etc I may have pick up also.

    Now the initial setup for tubeless is not easy. A tubeless tire booster pump makes things a LOT easier.
    Last edited by CLiVE; 05-30-2019 at 10:24 AM.

  15. #355
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    Quote Originally Posted by CLiVE View Post
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    I have not had a flat in 3 seasons and 4 ironmans....
    In all my years of road riding at ~10-15k per year. I've only had a catastrophic tire (not tube) failure twice from road debris cutting the tire. If that happens I have the tire boot and a backup tube.
    I do inspect my tires pre/post ride for any small cuts, etc I may have pick up also.

    Now the initial setup for tubeless is not easy. A tubeless tire booster pump makes things a LOT easier.

    thought I would follow-up on this post....and I got a flat at IM Boulder that refused to seal. Appeared to seal during the race (noticed it race morning - and rode 180km on it), but every time I try to add pressure now it sprays.
    Small pin hole puncture. Schwalbe Pro ones w/Stans sealant. Guess it did what I needed it to do for the race ?!?

  16. #356
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    I'm building a single speed bike by reusing some old parts, have a triple crank and planning on using the 50t along with a 16t cog.
    Is this good enough for around downtown Calgary and mostly flat areas, or too hard and use a 39t instead?

    on my road bike I tend to be riding 50t and 16t or 18t and on the hybrid its 42t and 12t to 14t
    Last edited by taemo; 07-08-2019 at 07:21 AM.

  17. #357
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    Quote Originally Posted by taemo View Post
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    I'm building a single speed bike by reusing some old parts, have a triple crank and planning on using the 50t along with a 16t cog.
    Is this good enough for around downtown Calgary and mostly flat areas, or too hard and use a 39t instead?

    on my road bike I tend to be riding 50t and 16t or 18t and on the hybrid its 42t and 12t to 14t
    Most fixed gears / single speeds come standard with a 46/16 or 2.88 ratio or similar. With that being said, give it a try and if it works for you...go with it.
    I commute on my fixed gear now and then, and ride up hill to the NW and up and over over nose hill on a 46/16.....hard, but can get over the hills. You may want a narrow/wide chain ring on the front. The middle position on the triple will likely give the best chainline also.
    Last edited by CLiVE; 07-08-2019 at 09:58 AM.

  18. #358
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    I've been reading that 46 or 48 is the optimal chainring on the front but it seems hard to find for 5 bolt 94bcd crankset.
    2 options that I have is
    1. get a 42 ring
    2. use a square tapper bottom bracket and pre-made fixie cranket

    I'll try 50/18 or 50/16 first and look into a smaller chainring later on if too hard.
    50/18 is 2.78 ratio so this might work, otherwise 42/16 with 2.62 ratio if I want something easier

    Even on a single speed I should still use narrow/wide chain ring?
    Last edited by taemo; 07-08-2019 at 10:32 AM.

  19. #359
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    I like my 48/16... but keep in mind that you only get one skid patch with that setup

  20. #360
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    Quote Originally Posted by taemo View Post
    This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
    I'm building a single speed bike by reusing some old parts, have a triple crank and planning on using the 50t along with a 16t cog.
    Is this good enough for around downtown Calgary and mostly flat areas, or too hard and use a 39t instead?

    on my road bike I tend to be riding 50t and 16t or 18t and on the hybrid its 42t and 12t to 14t
    I like this idea. I have an old Madone that I haven't ridden in 10 years. The freewheel is ceased, so it is basically a single speed. haha.

    How hard is it to convert? I am sure there are online tutorials. Any suggestions?

    Is a carbon single / fixie not cool?

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