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Thread: Bike build and maintenance

  1. #521
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    Quote Originally Posted by flipstah View Post
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    In terms of bike mechanics, should I also try and move the saddle forward vs finding a shorter stem?
    Those are two independent adjustments, by moving your saddle forward you are going to be making changes to your knees in relation to the crank spindle and that may or may not cause you issues. The stem length is for your upper body reach, the saddle position is to make sure your legs are moving properly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bigboom View Post
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    Those are two independent adjustments, by moving your saddle forward you are going to be making changes to your knees in relation to the crank spindle and that may or may not cause you issues. The stem length is for your upper body reach, the saddle position is to make sure your legs are moving properly.
    Oh okay, thanks! When I ride, I definitely feel like I'm over reaching for the bars and my boys feel the pinch. Granted it was the first ride without any adjustments so I'll find out this weekend what I can do. The frame isn't big because I clear the cross bar but I guess I have T-Rex arms.

    Will definitely need to replace shifter/brake cables so have to figure out which ends I have.

    - New saddle/seat post
    - New bar tape
    - Brake hoods
    - Brake cables
    - Shifter cable
    - Frame cleanup
    - Overall greasing/adjusting
    - Maybe new brake pads (do pads go bad? They're still thick...)

  3. #523
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    Standover height isn't really much a tell in regards to frame size though. I would look at potentially raising the stem up first, sounds like maybe there's too much saddle to bar drop along with a potential reach issue. You might want to get fit though before you dump a bunch of money into this bike. Brake pads will go bad especially if they are cracked and dried out.

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    Adjusted the saddle/drop bars and the reach is way better; pedalling felt more efficient too so might have been just too far back. Has a 110mm quill stem extension so might get an 80mm

    As for cables, these are the ends.... Is there a term I should use on Amazon?
    Last edited by flipstah; 08-22-2020 at 06:15 PM.

  5. #525
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    Just go to crappy tire or Walmart and get brake cables

  6. #526
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    Oh yeah good call thx man!

  7. #527
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    Should be done my Norco today so I got bored and looked on Facebook. Ended up with two frames; one is a chromoly!

    Time to build a fixie!

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  8. #528
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    Quote Originally Posted by flipstah View Post
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    Should be done my Norco today so I got bored and looked on Facebook. Ended up with two frames; one is a chromoly!

    Time to build a fixie!
    You sure you want to do that? Personally not a fan of fixed gear bikes for anything but track riding. I'd rather be on a single speed bike with a free wheeling hub any day of the week...

  9. #529
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    So I was out for a ride and it looks like one of my spokes came loose. Is this something that can be fixed by a shop if I bring my wheel in? Or do I need to but a new one. Heard a ting then noticed my brake was dragging as the rim is warped where one came loose

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    Quote Originally Posted by pheoxs View Post
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    So I was out for a ride and it looks like one of my spokes came loose. Is this something that can be fixed by a shop if I bring my wheel in? Or do I need to but a new one. Heard a ting then noticed my brake was dragging as the rim is warped where one came loose
    Likely easy enough to fix as long as the rim isn't excessively bent or damaged. Shouldn't be too expensive likely somewhere around 30mins of the labour rate if it's just replacing a spoke and retruing the wheel.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mazdavirgin View Post
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    You sure you want to do that? Personally not a fan of fixed gear bikes for anything but track riding. I'd rather be on a single speed bike with a free wheeling hub any day of the week...
    I’ve been back and forth on it and learning about bike frames along the way. Like cars, a frame isn’t a frame!

    MTB frame isn’t road frame so what I’ll be doing is restoring the Kuwahara as a SS hybrid with some fun coloured Gravelkings. I also learned about cantilever brakes and v brakes.... This has been fun!

    Side note: if anyone wants a 60cm Viscount Sebring frame for their roadie build, Id be willing to trade for a S/M road frame or $40.

  12. #532
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    Quote Originally Posted by mazdavirgin View Post
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    You sure you want to do that? Personally not a fan of fixed gear bikes for anything but track riding. I'd rather be on a single speed bike with a free wheeling hub any day of the week...
    Love my fixed gear. For urban riding / pathways / errands and commuting I ride my fixed gear a lot. It will make you a stronger rider (especially on the hills). Also find it is a great way to get a good workout in when I don't have time for a long highway cruise on the road / tri bikes. The level of speed control you have with fixed is also nice, makes it tough to go back to other bikes. And yes - I run brakes in the city.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CLiVE View Post
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    Love my fixed gear. For urban riding / pathways / errands and commuting I ride my fixed gear a lot. It will make you a stronger rider (especially on the hills). Also find it is a great way to get a good workout in when I don't have time for a long highway cruise on the road / tri bikes. The level of speed control you have with fixed is also nice, makes it tough to go back to other bikes. And yes - I run brakes in the city.
    In most build videos I've seen, when they do a fixed gear conversion it doesn't need a tension arm and SS conversion needs an arm. However, my SS cruiser doesn't have a tension arm. Is this related somehow to the dropouts?

    I thought if you keep the chain tension tight, it's fine SS/fixed... I'm pretty lost.

  14. #534
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    I really enjoyed riding my single speed as well. It was easy to work on and I didn't have to any adjustments. The only reason I sold it was because I started biking to downtown in the summer. On the way home, going up the Edworthy Park hill to get to to Sarcee and Bow and then going up the Bow trail hill was taking all the fun out of biking.

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    Omg... you’d need some big legs to get up edworthy on a single speed

    I’m running a 16/48 ratio and even sandy beach kills me!

    Love the fixed for DT though, great brewery hopper

  16. #536
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    Quote Originally Posted by ercchry View Post
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    Omg... you’d need some big legs to get up edworthy on a single speed

    I’m running a 16/48 ratio and even sandy beach kills me!

    Love the fixed for DT though, great brewery hopper
    I would get 1/3 up and have to walk it the rest as I needed my legs to get to the to of Bow trail.

  17. #537
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    Quote Originally Posted by ercchry View Post
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    Omg... you’d need some big legs to get up edworthy on a single speed

    I’m running a 16/48 ratio and even sandy beach kills me!

    Love the fixed for DT though, great brewery hopper
    It's all about gearing. I've done Edworthy repeats on my single speed bike. However, that bike on the pathways means 100rpm to do 27km/h. I guess that also means 50-55rpm on some sections of Edworthy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Penguin_Racecar View Post
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    It's all about gearing. I've done Edworthy repeats on my single speed bike. However, that bike on the pathways means 100rpm to do 27km/h. I guess that also means 50-55rpm on some sections of Edworthy.
    Yeah... 100rpm is about 38km/h for my 700c/25 16/48 setup... just the way I like it for the flats

  19. #539
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    What gearing combination do you recommend on a single speed setup around bike paths in the city? It will help me on my MTB single speed build

    Quote Originally Posted by Penguin_Racecar View Post
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    It's all about gearing. I've done Edworthy repeats on my single speed bike. However, that bike on the pathways means 100rpm to do 27km/h. I guess that also means 50-55rpm on some sections of Edworthy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by flipstah View Post
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    What gearing combination do you recommend on a single speed setup around bike paths in the city? It will help me on my MTB single speed build
    You want to keep cadence (rpm) between 80-100 for optimum efficiency... so keeping that in mind plug the rest of your variables into this

    https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html

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