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    Quote Originally Posted by gpomp View Post
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    Is this the going rate?
    If the car is in terrible shape and needs 20 hours of paint correction before the coating is applied.

    Otherwise no. For that price you are getting ceramic plus a full front up on the roof 3M job.
    Originally posted by Thales of Miletus

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    Quote Originally Posted by Yolobimmer View Post
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    guessing who I might be, psychologizing me with your non existent degree.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jwslam View Post
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    I haven't tried yet but everyone seems to be saying this is a good deal. Regularly $25+

    Also carzilla so #SupportLocal
    https://carzilla.ca/products/turtle-...d2578fb9&_ss=r
    I've done two coats on the wheels of both cars and have done one whole car. Car and wheels are staying clean, but that could be because no driving (very little anyway) is being done. haha.

    What I did for prep was to iron X, then clay. Spray each panel 2 or 3 times. Wait 24 hours to cure. Then do it again. Nice and easy.

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    I don't know if my ceramic coat is faded or if it's residue from wax water at the car wash.

    It took some serious elbow grease with a microfiber cloth to get rid of it and it's all over the back bumper of my car. Looks like total shit because it's black paint.

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    I just paid $1k for my car to be done with Gyeon Duraflex, 5 year coating

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    Quote Originally Posted by rx7boi View Post
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    I don't know if my ceramic coat is faded or if it's residue from wax water at the car wash.

    It took some serious elbow grease with a microfiber cloth to get rid of it and it's all over the back bumper of my car. Looks like total shit because it's black paint.
    You don't want to use the wax water from car wash, it will clog up the hydrophobic property of the coating. This is also the reason why you don't want to use any 'wash and wax' type shampoo on a coated vehicle.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HiSpec View Post
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    You don't want to use the wax water from car wash, it will clog up the hydrophobic property of the coating. This is also the reason why you don't want to use any 'wash and wax' type shampoo on a coated vehicle.
    So just soap and rinse at the wand wash then?
    Quote Originally Posted by killramos View Post
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    You realize you are talking to the guy who made his own furniture out of salad bowls right?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ExtraSlow View Post
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    So just soap and rinse at the wand wash then?
    That’s what I do. Presoak is also good for ceramic.
    Originally posted by Thales of Miletus

    If you think I have been trying to present myself as intellectually superior, then you truly are a dimwit.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yolobimmer View Post
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    guessing who I might be, psychologizing me with your non existent degree.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HiSpec View Post
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    You don't want to use the wax water from car wash, it will clog up the hydrophobic property of the coating. This is also the reason why you don't want to use any 'wash and wax' type shampoo on a coated vehicle.
    Gotcha. I had used the wax water quite a few times at the wash. I also used Ultimate No Rinse on the car a couple times last summer.

    Is there something I should be doing to correct the fade/residue? Will the car need to be recoated?

    I should probably also text Rainier for some sage advice.

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    could be waterspots that have been etched in, which would require polishing

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    Quote Originally Posted by ExtraSlow View Post
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    So just soap and rinse at the wand wash then?
    Quote Originally Posted by killramos View Post
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    That’s what I do. Presoak is also good for ceramic.
    Exactly. Pre-soak and let it soak a bit while working on your wheels if you brought your own wheel cleaner and brush. Then soap and rinse.
    If you like to take an extra step further, use some 'spray and rinse' ceramic-based topper after rinsing. Such as Gyeon Wetcoat or Carpro HydrO2. So you basically have to rinse twice.


    Quote Originally Posted by rx7boi View Post
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    Gotcha. I had used the wax water quite a few times at the wash. I also used Ultimate No Rinse on the car a couple times last summer.

    Is there something I should be doing to correct the fade/residue? Will the car need to be recoated?

    I should probably also text Rainier for some sage advice.
    The first thing I would try is to hand wash it once using Carpro Reset shampoo. This will strip away any wax or glossing agents sitting on top of your ceramic coating. If the paint still doesn't look right then consult with Rainier for any aftersales service.
    Last edited by HiSpec; 05-13-2020 at 03:58 PM.

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    I thought coin op pre soak had very low/high pH which wears down the coating faster.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gpomp View Post
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    I thought coin op pre soak had very low/high pH which wears down the coating faster.
    Isn’t chemical resistance one of the top benefits of a ceramic coating?
    Originally posted by Thales of Miletus

    If you think I have been trying to present myself as intellectually superior, then you truly are a dimwit.
    Originally posted by Toma
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yolobimmer View Post
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    guessing who I might be, psychologizing me with your non existent degree.

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    After many, many hours of research I am sold on the over-the-counter ceramic coatings now, in terms of both cost and ease of application. I'm about due for a re-application of mine and I'm going to do it myself this time around. In my opinion, this is the way to go for the average Joe who doesn't want to spend $600+++ on a professional application (which to be honest is myself and probably a lot of other people as well).

    The prep work determines how well the coating will perform and how long it will last, so if you have absolutely brutal paint, you may still need to pay someone, but for everyone else the following will be just perfect (I will link to the exact stuff I bought and the lowest prices I found):


    1) Wash your car as you normally would, ideally with a stronger shampoo like CarPro Reset or one of the many similar products. You are trying to get the paint surface as clean as possible.

    2) Then use a product like Iron-X to remove surface contaminants: https://www.autoobsessed.com/product...3bb79085&_ss=r

    Spray on, wait 5 mins for all the contaminants to turn purple, rinse off.

    3) Clay your car to remove the rest of the contaminants - I recommend a clay cloth which last much longer than clay and are reusable even if you drop them, unlike clay: https://www.amazon.ca/Nanoskin-AS-01...425731&sr=8-20

    Use a clay lube of your choice (I wouldn't suggest using quick detail, but any dedicated clay lube is probably fine)

    4) (OPTIONAL) Isopropyl alcohol rub-down to remove any product residues. I'm probably going to skip this step but it's technically best to do it.

    5) This is where you do any paint correction, if desired or required.

    6) Now it's time for the coating itself. This is the best spray-on ceramic coating I have found, is the most chemical resistant, has the best water SHEETING performance (I don't care about beading - it looks cool but it doesn't get the water off your car as well) and lasts the longest. $26 at CT, but on sale at the moment (the name on the website is wrong, the bottle is correct): https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/t...1018p.html#srp

    That stuff is amazing. 2 sprays per panel, quick wipe with a microfiber to spread, quick wipe with a fresh microfiber to finish it. No buffing, waiting, or elbow grease required. 1 coat = 6 months, 2 coats = 12 months protection, and you can do a whole car in about 10 minutes. One bottle will do several vehicles. It also works in direct sunlight and there is no curing time for water exposure (24 hours curing recommended for max performance however).

    As an added bonus the silica in it will not wreck your microfiber cloths. You can also apply it over existing waxes, or without doing any prep at all, it just won't last as long. It's so easy to apply though, that really isn't a bad option for some people not interested in the prep work.

    TurtleWax has come full circle in the last few years. Their Hybrid Solutions lineup is actually awesome.

    Meguiars, Mothers and some others make similar products but every test I have seen on sheeting, resistance, and longevity has the TurtleWax Hybrid Solutions on top. They have lots of other products in that lineup too, from polishes to soap, but the actual coating product is the one linked above.

    6) You're done. Total cost is under $100 plus around 3-4 hours of your time (maybe more if you are doing a cut polish or have a gigantic vehicle) and it's a big step up from any wax or paint sealant. The really expensive ceramic coatings are still better, but not enough to warrant a 10-20X price difference, in my opinion. Granted, a lot of of what you're paying for is the labor so you can still buy some pretty good OTC coatings like CQuartz 3.0 but application is not nearly as simple.

    I coated my mailbox in it today and it looks amazing lol. Going to do the cars this weekend.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by killramos View Post
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    Isn’t chemical resistance one of the top benefits of a ceramic coating?
    Yes, especially for bird poop that goes unnoticed or if you park outdoors. Tree sap comes right off too. A lot of these coatings have videos showcasing their durability, they start fires on the car, let battery acid sit on the car, etc. and zero damage.

    The other main benefits are ease of maintenance washes (a lot less sticks to it, and the stuff that does washes off super easy), and water sheeting. Something like a basic touchless CO-OP wash has the vehicle looking almost flawless every time when you have a good ceramic coating. Skip the spray-wax options.

    None of these coatings give you meaningful protection from rock chips, scratches, etc. and you do have to take care when washing the car (i.e. don't let a dealer do it).
    Last edited by Mitsu3000gt; 05-13-2020 at 10:20 PM.

  14. #54
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    So I imagine the best time to use one of these self applied over the counter ceramic coatings would be the day you bring a new car home from the dealership? Wouldn't there be little to no prep work involved?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Klobi-1-Kinobi View Post
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    So I imagine the best time to use one of these self applied over the counter ceramic coatings would be the day you bring a new car home from the dealership? Wouldn't there be little to no prep work involved?
    All cars will have rail dust from being transported by train or truck. Claybar is a minimum prep required.

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    Quote Originally Posted by killramos View Post
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    If the car is in terrible shape and needs 20 hours of paint correction before the coating is applied.

    Otherwise no. For that price you are getting ceramic plus a full front up on the roof 3M job.
    This is correct. I must have sourced that rate from AutoObssessed.

    These days, you can cut the processing time in half, and days are gone using the standard Porter-Cable and Meguiars 105 and 205s.

    I can't believe how good products are these days.

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    Quote Originally Posted by benyl View Post
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    All cars will have rail dust from being transported by train or truck. Claybar is a minimum prep required.
    Ah yes. Good point.

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    Quote Originally Posted by benyl View Post
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    All cars will have rail dust from being transported by train or truck. Claybar is a minimum prep required.
    Dealer installed swirls, scratches, holograms, and heavy glaze also comes standard in most cases. I would say a full paintwork correction is a minimum requirement.

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    Good thread.
    My yearly detail involves basically the steps that Mitsu3000gt has posted. I invested in a Porter Cable, some quality pads, Chemical Guys compound + polish, and Meguiars Wax. Looking fwd to trying out one of the ceramic sprays.

    Has anyone used any of the over-the-counter ceramic sprays for glass shower doors? Better lonegetivity than RainX I would imagine?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Klobi-1-Kinobi View Post
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    So I imagine the best time to use one of these self applied over the counter ceramic coatings would be the day you bring a new car home from the dealership? Wouldn't there be little to no prep work involved?
    Roughly 50% of the cars that I work on are brand new which require a decontamination and full polish before coating. You can just slap the coating on a brand new car but it's only as good as the prep.

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