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Thread: ceramic paint coating?

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaylo View Post
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    Paint correction should only be done once, with proper care and maintenance of your paintwork. I've gone almost 3 years without paint correction and minimal scratches and swirl-free on a Black Sapphire Metallic paint.

    Relying on just the coating alone for years, without using a booster or reloading, is negligence of paintwork.

    The majority of the cost should be eaten from the paint correction itself.

    An over the counter coating like Crystal Serum Light and EXO V3 kit for $144 and CarPro Reload for $81, then DIY on which a 30ml bottle can be applied 3 times over a small SUV.

    Looking at the cost perspective, let's say $80 plus $25 an hour for labor, with the LSP package above I mentioned, I can coat a vehicle 2 times (CSL, top off with EXO V3) for around $130 with 2 hours of labor.

    Cost of booster or reloading, let's say $25 for product, and 2 hours for labor on decontamination (chemical wash, no clay, or correction) and LSP application.
    You are 100% correct.. I am coming up on 2 years on my exo. My car is parked in a garage (garage queen) and driven on weekends and on road trips.

    The exo is still beading in some areas but I follow a 2 bucket method (using G wash), and I properly decontaminate usually every 6 months because the bottom sides get road tar and brake dust. These coatings Do Not protect a car from everyday buildup. I will probably redo the exo or just try out some sealants. The coatings also do not protect from swirls from improper washing. This usually takes me 8-10 hours to decontaminate, polish off the remaining old coating, and then reapply a new coating.

    On the other side though, I detailed (also a part time detailer) a car last year with Exo and CSL (3 year coating). This car is daily driven, winter driven, and washed probably once a week at a car wand wash (no brush). After about a year, the coatings were not beading water on the sides. I decontaminated the car this spring and gave it a proper wash and it helped but the customer is coming back in the fall to have the coating redone. So in our environment, with a daily driver, winter driven, I think you would be lucky to get half of the life expectancy that the coating manufacturer claims. In saying that, the sealant of my choice for long term is power lock, I consistently get about 4 - 6 months before it is wearing off (manufacturer states it should last around 1 year). So keeping that in mind, the coating is still worth the extra money because it lasts longer, produces a nicer shine and beads water significantly better.

  2. #22
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    Thanks for the shout out guys.

    Longevity on coatings can range from 2years - 7 years(proven). Coatings are not God's Holy Water. They DO require some basic maintenance to for it to last and perform well.

    As what I have stated before coatings are different from wax and sealant. Coatings in the market now are normally Si02, Ti02 or SiC. If you do a quick google search on them you will know these substances when cured forms a "hard" surface.

    Longevity depends greatly on the chemisty behind it in bonding with car's paint. All coatings have 1 thing in common and that's PROTECTION.

    "Most" of the nano coatings are all high chemical and UV heat resistance. Acid, Tar/Grease or gun wash etc will not remove them. it may degrade the hydrophobic but it will not remove the coating. The only way to actually remove any nano coatings is abrasive (cut/polish and/or wetsand).

    If a coating can be remove with some sort of chemical then you should really think if that coating is worth it or not.

    Gloss, Slickness, Hydrophobic/Super Hydrophobic and hardness are all a bonus feature of nano coating.

    Ceramic Coating. Nano coatings do not actually contains ceramic (AT ALL). It's just a name to make it sound "strong" or "harder" than wax.

    CS-II Titanium does not contain Titanium also. But it has such a high % of solid (Si02) combined with other chemistry elements making it last longer and offering superior protection against others in the market.

    Nano-1 is our retail line that anyone can do themselve. But you should never apply any nano coatings without propper prepping. (decontamination, stage 1 or stage 2 polishing etc)

    Why would one spend hundreds of dollars for a paint protection coating......when your paint is not in a good shape?

    If hydrophobic is what you are looking for, there are specific coatings for Hydrophobic. These do not require polishing..although recommended.

    99.999% of all nano coatings (ceramic..titanium..glass) all produces gloss and slickness. If the surface of the vehicle is badly swirled. Putting a coating on will actually amplify them.

    If anyone has any questions or would like to learn more about coatings in general (not just CS-II brand). I welcome them to either give me a call or drop by my shop.

    I will be offering free courses on how to properly wash a vehicle, how to use a DA polisher (beginners level) and how to apply ANY nano coatings.

    CHeers

  3. #23
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    Also, I had forgot to mention.

    For those who are curious on how much gloss our nano coatings add when in comparison with our competitors or traditional wax/sealant.

    We just got our gloss meter in for before and after results

  4. #24
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    I spent two days (took my time) getting my STI prepped for Opti-coat. Two bucket wash, Iron X, clay bar, full polish, IPA wipe-down. If a detailer is taking these steps the high prices are somewhat justified as it's labor intensive, although IMO $1200 is too much money.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by rlim891 View Post
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    Also, I had forgot to mention.

    For those who are curious on how much gloss our nano coatings add when in comparison with our competitors or traditional wax/sealant.

    We just got our gloss meter in for before and after results
    PM'd also BUMP!

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