Triple Garage with a column in it?

[88CRX]

Anyone have experience with their triple garage having a wing wall (and column) or just a column floating in the middle of the garage between the double and single stalls? Column is to pick up the bonus room above the garage.

Trying to work our some options now but is this going to suck as much as I think it going to?

[jwslam]

No experience but how much it sucks depends what your garage will be used for I guess.

If the single side is meant to be a storage or shop area, then it may not be so bad to separate it, heck you might want to put in a full wall for more hanging space.
If it's all cars, you might still consider the full wall for hanging space, and put a nicer car on the single side to prevent kids from door dinging your own cars with eachother?

I would bet it's possible to run without the column at all if your beams ran from house to garage door... might require going to 3x single garage doors? Seems fishy that you'd HAVE to put in a post but I'm just a dumb engineer, not the structural kind.

[never]

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Anyone have experience with their triple garage having a wing wall (and column) or just a column floating in the middle of the garage between the double and single stalls? Column is to pick up the bonus room above the garage.

Trying to work our some options now but is this going to suck as much as I think it going to?

I have a post in the middle of a double drive under garage and it sucks but we are used to it now. In a triple, as mentioned, it will depend on how it was used but I wouldn't think it would be as bad as the double.

[Sugarphreak]

...

[88CRX]

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if it is a new build, it should be fairly straight forward to have them to either hang the perpendicular beam from the main beam, or even just drop the main beam so it can sit on top, and then just extend the main one out to the exterior wall and drop a post there

they should be able to do it with a decent sized psl, or if depth becomes and issue you can ask them to use a steel beam. If they make a big fuss about it being too hard, i can cobble some details together for you, haha

pm'd

[SilverGS]

I have a column in between the double and single. Doesn't bother me too much but it can get in the way of the back door depending how you park your cars. Otherwise, I don't use my garage for anything that requires the full open area so other having people being a bit more careful when exiting the back seat it has not been an issue.

[benyl]

Get one of these... that post in the middle will suck.



We had to wait 10 days for this to be custom cut for us from YVR. Delayed out build, but so worth it.

[benyl]

another view.

[88CRX]

What was the cost? And whats the span of the steel beam?

Also our garage orientation doesnt have any spans that long. Like Sugarphreak said we can add a beam running perpendicular to the bonus room beam to pickup the load.

[benyl]

35 ft. $3040 in 2011.

[88CRX]

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35 ft. $3040 in 2011.

Thanks! Pretty sure we can pickup the span in the perpendicular direction with a 16" LVL which would be alot cheaper then that.

Also assume you have a drop bulkhead in your garage now? Makes it more challenging for a lift I suppose.

[03ozwhip]

ya I have a beam in the middle and it pissed me off. that one 2x2 beam is such a pain in the ass. if i would have thought about it, I would gotten the beam along the top.

it will cost quite a bit more though. I'm pretty sure somewhere around the 5k mark.

[Quizzes]

Should be able to run wooden beams perpendicular all across without having a post in the middle. Had to drop the Bonus Room to make this work.

Here's the blueprint of my place.

[JustinL]

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Makes it more challenging for a lift I suppose.

If you're doing a 2 or 4 post lift, you're going to have extra columns no matter what. The column in my garage is closer towards the single side, so doesn't affect anything of the double really. It is one more thing to work around if you are moving big things, but really it's a non-issue. I'd agree with what others are saying in terms of it depends on what you are going to use that part of your garage for. If it's going to be a daily driver with people getting out of the back door all the time it might be worth doing something, but if it's going to have a lift or be a more hobby area, then I wouldn't worry about it. If you are doing a lift, then prioritize ceiling height.

[CLiVE]

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Thanks! Pretty sure we can pickup the span in the perpendicular direction with a 16" LVL which would be alot cheaper then that.

Also assume you have a drop bulkhead in your garage now? Makes it more challenging for a lift I suppose.

Mine is similar. 32' steel beam across that forms a bulkhead. But 35' deep garage, so really doesn't bug me.
Sorry for the dark pic, but the only one I have during construction.

[88CRX]

Here's the layout in question....


» Click image for larger version

Honestly I'm planning for a lift at some point (for storage), but might not be in the cards right away. In which case I can store 2 vehicles tight up against the single stall wall (since its wider) and fit 4 cars across the entire garage, which is where the flexibility of no column (or wall) comes into play.

Pretty sure the costs to add a wooden beam should be fairly minor, only talking about a 20' span.

- - - Updated - - -

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Mine is similar. 32' steel beam across that forms a bulkhead. But 35' deep garage, so really doesn't bug me.
Sorry for the dark pic, but the only one I have during construction.

Looks good!

Were your costs similar to Benyl's?

[CLiVE]

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Looks good!

Were your costs similar to Benyl's?

Yes, I believe it was similar. 2013 build. Will try to find the documents.

[benyl]

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Here's the layout in question....


» Click image for larger version

I don't know if it is too late, but do yourself two HUGE favours.

1. 9x8 door
2. 18x8 door.

I can't see the height of the doors, but 8ft doors are a must. I can drive my truck into my garage with mountain bikes mounted on a North Shore rack on an F150. That way I can unload inside if it is raining outside.

[CLiVE]

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I don't know if it is too late, but do yourself two HUGE favours.

1. 9x8 door
2. 18x8 door.

I can't see the height of the doors, but 8ft doors are a must. I can drive my truck into my garage with mountain bikes mounted on a North Shore rack on an F150. That way I can unload inside if it is raining outside.

+1 I drive right in with my F150 with bikes mounted on the tonneau cover.

[88CRX]

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I don't know if it is too late, but do yourself two HUGE favours.

1. 9x8 door
2. 18x8 door.

I can't see the height of the doors, but 8ft doors are a must. I can drive my truck into my garage with mountain bikes mounted on a North Shore rack on an F150. That way I can unload inside if it is raining outside.

Yup, I think you mentioned that in another thread and we plan on making the doors larger (9x8 and 18x8) which in turn uses less brick/stone on the exterior... which might actually save us a couple hundred dollars (which is nice).