Price isn't bad, but I don't need the clearance and I got the Chamberlain B970 for $280 when it was on sale a few weeks ago.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Price isn't bad, but I don't need the clearance and I got the Chamberlain B970 for $280 when it was on sale a few weeks ago.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Last edited by The_Rural_Juror; 12-17-2018 at 03:29 PM.
Total bullspit.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Same machine, main change was operating frequency and move from a NO/NC style low voltage control system to something closer to 2 wire serial comms like canbus.
There's probably a hundred of my customers on beyond who can tell you there's nothing wrong with the 8500.
So should I pick the 8500 over the B970C for about 350 more? I don't need the clearance, just prefer the aesthetics.
Aesthetics are worth it to some and not others...
Both are nice units.
Beats me dude. I’m not a garage door guy. Just repeating what I was told.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Haha and I haven't touched a door In a solid year other than to look and say "yup it's broken"
I have a 8500c on my garage, the issue I had was the 18 foot door thermal bowing as it faces west and is a dark color. I had to have them move the rails so they break at a higher angle or else the middle of the door scrapes on the top frame when it's hot out.
It's a combo of the high lift, large door, dark color, and side mount problem. Installer probably didn't account for all the variables.
No regrets though, the garage looks so much nicer with the high lift and side mount.
Mine works great that you installed. I still remember you saying don't shorten the control wiring, and I never did and no issues what so ever.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Control panel is just that... Just holds the buttons like a keyboard.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
3800/8500c have the same code as far as operating. There's an encoder wheel when you program open/close limits you're setting the number of pulses it's looking to count between open and close limit (total distance to travel). Then it seeks it's top limit by raising until force trips, then goes down the specified number of steps - expects the same.
If it's loosing it's limits and force settings there's something mechanically wrong with the door - that needs attention, could be anything from a frost heave to a snow load on the roof causing it to run out of square to a bad roller, bearing twisted hinge.
Usually that was evidenced by it tripping on the cable tension sensor.
Start with the door, should be able to lift/close it with 2 fingers, if you need two hands it's definitely not right.
Bringing this up as I am now in need of someone to repair our garage door so has anyone used any of these companies or have any insight? These were recommended by people in my neighborhood:
- Crowfoot Cross town garage door services
- Garage Door Depot
- Action Garage Door
- Kingdom Doors Calgary
- Assured Garage Doors
I don't even know what is wrong with my door but all I do know is that it is not going up. It goes up about an inch then back down. I did manage to get my wife's car out by pushing it up as it started to move but had to keep adding pressure while it traveled upward because if I stopped, it would go back down. Also, it kind of catches on one of the tracks but I can't see why. There is a bit of separation between the planks because a couple of the bolts were missing but I put a couple in but still sticks. Anyone know what is wrong or what this would cost to repair?
Getting my opener upgraded to a wifi model shortly. If anyone wants an entry level liftmaster for cheap, let me know asap.
I used these guys earlier this week, dude was really good and price was reasonable. He came out monday at 6pm and fixed my springs, cables, and re-adjusted the doorand the garage door opener.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Also it sounds like something to do with the cables on the side.
https://bnwgaragedoors.ca
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Went with these guys and they came by same night and are repairing it
Cost is 340 for everything.
$204 here tax in.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
- Replaced the cables on both sides
- New bracket and roller on the bottom right hand side
- Checked and retensioned the springs, adjusted for balance as the springs weren't tensioned enough and the door was causing too much straing on the garage door opener
- Lubricated the rollers and the garage door hinges
- Ensured the garage door was level
- Set the garage door opener height - up and down so it doesn't come crashing down
Dude took an hour, was here right on the dot. Super professional and upfront with costs and requirements. I didn't have any issues at all to be honest, and the gurantee the parts and labour for a year.
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Yeah, he was definitely prompt! Done quickly too. My door was stuck in the down position and my S2000 was parked inside. He was under an hour and a half and I wasn't home
The wife was here but from the looks of it, the car was well respected.
Checking the bill, it was 357 with the taxes and that was for 2 new springs and labour. I'm hoping I didn't pay out the rear end for this but I'm hoping from the sound of it, this is a fair price.
Sounds fair.....I assume he would've had to re-adjust the door and garage door opener too plus check to make sure the door is balanced and level.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
I remember about a decade ago, the one cable snapped on my garage door in -30 temp on a friday. Had to get this one guy to come out on Saturday, he charged me minimum 2 hours labour plus parts, did a quick half ass adjustment and it was like $500 or $600, something stupid I remember. AndyL came out a couple years later, replaced the same damn cable and charged me like $100 or $150, plus he rebalanced everything too....i felt so ripped.
Glad your experience with B&W was good, they were super good to me on Monday.
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Does it make sense to have someone check out a door as a preventative measure? Mine is working fine, but a little noisy. I'm sure it could use an adjustment at least.
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Mine was super quiet 8 months ago and it just kept getting louder and louder. It was banging around last week like it was 20 years old. Once everything was greased up it went silent again.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Put it in manual mode and see if you can easily pull it up/down. If you can just lube everything up and you should be 100% good to go. Garage guy mentioned to use the good stuff made specifically for garage doors (ie: not WD 40).
My dad uses Chinook Garage Door Services, Robert Goulet 403-708-8836 with good success over the years. I had a issue with my opener and he helped me over the phone telling me how I could try to fix it myself if I was handy and what was most likely wrong, costed me nothing and it worked.
Mine was getting louder and I noticed the opener seemed to struggle a bit when lifting the door, so I thought it could use an adjustment. I did that manual thing where u disconnect from the garage door opener and open/close the door half way. If it stays, it's good, if it does,kt, then you'll likely need an adjustment. When I did that, I pulled the door halfway down, let go...and it fucking crashed all the way down, lifting was tough too, so that's how I knew it needed an adjustment for sure.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
When the guy came in, I asked him to replace the cables as well as i've had the one side snap before.
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