Difficulty installing mods on my '11 Sonata 2.0T

[oogaboogie]

Hi Beyond,

I was wondering if anyone could chime in on how difficult it might be for a newbie to install these parts at home and whether I should get a shop to do all of this:

Vehicle
Make: Hyundai
Model: Sonata 2.0T Limited
Year: 2011
Mileage: 110,000 km

Parts to install
1x Ultra Racing Performance Front Strut Tower Bar
1x Ultra Racing Rear Sway Bar - Anti Roll/Stabilizer Bar
14x Kia Optima/Hyundai Sonata Stiff Ring Chassis Collars
1x LAP3 Uncle Chip Performance Tune
1x ADD W1 V3.3 - Baffled Dual Inlet Oil Catch Can
4x HKS M45XL Spark Plugs
1x Kia Optima/ Hyundai Sonata - Injen Intake Systems
1x HKS BOV Kit for Kia & Hyundai Vehicles

Thanks!

[Hallowed_point]

Strut tower bar - easy
Sway bar - easy
Loading a tune via OBD2 port - easy
Catch can - easy
Spark plugs - easy
Intake - easy
BOV & Chassis Collars (not sure what those are) I'd suggest a mechanic.

[shakalaka]

Start off by visiting your car specific forums and seeing if there are DIY's floating around. Second would be to ask on them to the people who have specifically done the mods you're looking at doing. Although most mods sound somewhat easy, it's daunting for someone who's never done anything like that before to do it without any guide.

[never]

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BOV (not sure what those are)

@Hallowed_point dammit, then you had better start researching blow off valves and turbos for when the SS needs a turbo setup.

[Hallowed_point]

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@Hallowed_point dammit, then you had better start researching blow off valves and turbos for when the SS needs a turbo setup.

I meant the Chassis Collars lol , my bad! I knew someone would make that comment

[mr2mike]

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@Hallowed_point dammit, then you had better start researching blow off valves and turbos for when the SS needs a turbo setup.

BOV's are for the eTuners. Real turbo guys go BOV-less.

All of those parts are easy installs as long as they fit. Aftermarket always has a chance of needing modifications to fit properly.

[bjstare]

Contrary to the other posters, I'm going to say it may not be that easy for you. If you don't have any idea how hard it will be to install them (even the simple ones like a strut tower brace), it leads me to believe that maybe you should prepare for a bit of a challenge. It's easy to say somethings easy if you're mechanically inclined.... and if OP was mechanically inclined, it would take him about 20 seconds of research (or simply popping the hood and using his eyeballs) to figure out that a strut tower bar can be installed super easily.

[never]

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BOV's are for the eTuners. Real turbo guys go BOV-less.

Exactly...but didn’t want to make things too complicated! Two turbo vehicles and not a BOV to be found!

[Maxx Mazda]

Don’t really agree with that statement. Compressor surge can kill turbo thrust bearings pretty quick. A BOV prevents this.

[Disoblige]

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Contrary to the other posters, I'm going to say it may not be that easy for you. If you don't have any idea how hard it will be to install them (even the simple ones like a strut tower brace), it leads me to believe that maybe you should prepare for a bit of a challenge. It's easy to say somethings easy if you're mechanically inclined.... and if OP was mechanically inclined, it would take him about 20 seconds of research (or simply popping the hood and using his eyeballs) to figure out that a strut tower bar can be installed super easily.

I agree with this.

[oogaboogie]

Thanks for all your advice! I've learned quite a bit from going out and watching all the youtube videos on the installs and your guys' comments.

My plan now is to send my car into Precision Alignment for the Stiff Ring Collars and an alignment.
From what I've seen/heard, I think I will attempt the rest of the installs myself. If anything, it will be a great lesson!

[never]

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Don’t really agree with that statement. Compressor surge can kill turbo thrust bearings pretty quick. A BOV prevents this.

There are two sides to the BOV necessity debate...obviously lots of cars with but tons of builds without. In our experience, haven’t seen any longevity issues and not dumping boost when pedalling it on a pass is a big benefit.

But if I had a factory car with a BOV or equivalent, I wouldn’t bother pulling it.

[Hallowed_point]

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Thanks for all your advice! I've learned quite a bit from going out and watching all the youtube videos on the installs and your guys' comments.

My plan now is to send my car into Precision Alignment for the Stiff Ring Collars and an alignment.
From what I've seen/heard, I think I will attempt the rest of the installs myself. If anything, it will be a great lesson!

Totally. I started out just like you 10 years ago ish. Never even touched cars before that much. Now I've never done engine swaps, but you can certainly handle
this man! Just have confidence, take your time, read walk throughs on forums and visit youtube. Use common sense and if you feel uneasy or unsafe, don't proceed
Start with the strut tower bar. That'll build your confidence. I hope that you have a proper torque wrench? If you don't head to Canadian Tire and pick one up. Make sure
you're torquing stuff to spec. Stripped threads and broken bolts are a thing to avoid.

[HiTempguy1]

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Don’t really agree with that statement. Compressor surge can kill turbo thrust bearings pretty quick. A BOV prevents this.

Really? Should tell that to my rally car.

Its like having a turbocharger cooled with coolant. Its not really necessary, especially with modern designs. Its strictly a manufacturer thing so the parts last 200k kms.

[Maxx Mazda]

I pulled the vacuum line once on my BOV. The surge was so loud and and annoying I couldn’t stand it. Not to mention no noticible improvement in boost response whatsoever. Keep in mind I’m running over 30psi on a T4.

Diesels don’t have the same problem because they don’t have a throttle plate which is why they can get away with it. Don’t see what the big deal is about.

[oogaboogie]

What order would you install these parts in (the most logical use of time/effort)?
This is what I am considering.

1. ECU
2. HKS Spark Plugs
3. Intake
4. Oil Catch can
5. BOV
6. Stiff Ring Collars
7. Front/Rear sway bars

[zieg]

I would to the oil catch can first because (as long as it's quality) it's actually going to do something. Do the intake and BOV at the same time because you will already have a bunch of the system taken apart. Do the spark plugs whenever, unless they interfere with anything (maybe the STB?). The ECU should be done after the intake and BOV so you can tune for those mods. Does the car have excessive factory body roll, or already upgraded springs? If not, you might want to think twice about risking a reduction in overall grip levels and/or changing the handling dynamics to something dangerous.

[mr2mike]

Grouped them:
1. HKS Spark Plugs (always make sure car is tuned up and basic maintenance done before you change or "upgrade" anything).
1. Intake
1. Oil Catch can
1. BOV

2. ECU

3. Stiff Ring Collars
3. Front/Rear sway bars

Also Pro-tip. Change one thing at a time when you're new. That way, easier to trouble shoot, "why is my car bucking at WOT??". You won't know if it's the BOV, boost leak elsewhere or ECU incorrectly tuned.