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Thread: new rotors required with all pad changes?

  1. #21
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    I drove my 2 previous cars up to about 300,000 KM and only replaced the pads / shoes. Brakes worked fine after that

    Also:

    1) Is there a way a rotor can get scored other than running the pad to bare metal?

    2) How would a rotor get warped?

  2. #22
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    If you have some uneven wear or uneven pad material deposition, why WOULDN'T you replace the rotors? On most cars, new rotors are about the same price (or less) than getting a shop to run them.
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  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by ExtraSlow View Post
    If you have some uneven wear or uneven pad material deposition, why WOULDN'T you replace the rotors? On most cars, new rotors are about the same price (or less) than getting a shop to run them.
    Ok, but how would a rotor get warped under normal use?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Seth1968 View Post
    Ok, but how would a rotor get warped under normal use?
    I don't use the phrase "warped", and I'm not an expert on WHY it happens, but it clearly DOES happen. Wife Honda Odyssey had pulsating pedal under braking at high speeds. Could have had the rotor turned which would have required a shop and paying labor rates, and about an even-money chance of the shop telling me I needed new rotors anyway. Instead I bought rotors on rockauto, did the replacement myself without hassle, and the braking is smooth as silk now.

    why it happens? I don't know. But the solution is either turning the rotors or replacing them. I vote for replacement on my vehicles.
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  5. #25
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    Pad material deposits.

    F150s are notorious for it. Maybe you Wife's minivan is too. Replace the pads with something that isn't shit and the pulsing should go away. I ended up putting Bosch pads on my F150. Haven't had an issue since. Before, the high speed pulsing would come and go.

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    Yeah, I always assume it was pad material deposits, but being a simple-minded guy, I wasn't sure if new pads could cure it, most places say you need to machine the rotor to remove it. new shitty rotors solved the problem and should get me through for the next few years on this low use vehicle.
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  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seth1968 View Post
    I drove my 2 previous cars up to about 300,000 KM and only replaced the pads / shoes. Brakes worked fine after that

    Also:

    1) Is there a way a rotor can get scored other than running the pad to bare metal?

    2) How would a rotor get warped?
    1) rocks and other forgein objects, esp if you drive off road. I had a rental jeep out in Nothern MB a few years ago for work and after 2 weeks of crushed gravel roads, we went through two sidewalls and all brakes were scored to fuck

    2) no warping - just pad deposits caused by hard braking and then leaving the pad in contact with the rotor for a short period of time - best to relase the pedal and use park or ebrake to hold.

    When I bought my civic, it had minor pulsation during braking but after a year or so it went away.

  8. #28
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    Have you ever seen a rotor on Surfacing machine? it's not just pad material
    Speed Doesn't kill, it's the sudden stop at the end.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by VetteRacin View Post
    Have you ever seen a rotor on Surfacing machine? it's not just pad material
    Of course its isnt; youre taking it down at least a couple of thou so the rotor will obviously shed its own metal

  10. #30
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    Got my brakes done last week and refinished the rotors without any issues.

    IMG_1632.jpg

    IMG_1633.jpg
    Originally posted by scat19
    I don't care if that wing is a jspoon or whatever it's huge and gross.
    Originally posted by slinkie
    its a honda not a zonda

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