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Thread: new rotors required with all pad changes?

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    Default new rotors required with all pad changes?

    Took my Q5 in for a basic maintenance this morning and just got a call from the SA telling me the front pads are at 11mm (1mm away from warning light) and if they could go ahead and replace them. It's about $975 for parts and labour including brand new rotors which she said are mandatory with pads.

    I've never owned an Audi or any German car before this, so just trying to understand how accurate these statements are and whether they apply to all cars or is it just an Audi standard:
    - Rotors need to be replaced any time you do brakes
    - Dealership service departments DON'T machine rotors any more (small shops probably still do)

    Any thoughts on these statements? Is it pretty standard to replace and not machine rotors these days?

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    Quote Originally Posted by sabad66 View Post
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    Took my Q5 in for a basic maintenance this morning and just got a call from the SA telling me the front pads are at 11mm (1mm away from warning light) and if they could go ahead and replace them. It's about $975 for parts and labour including brand new rotors which she said are mandatory with pads.

    I've never owned an Audi or any German car before this, so just trying to understand how accurate these statements are and whether they apply to all cars or is it just an Audi standard:
    - Rotors need to be replaced any time you do brakes
    - Dealership service departments DON'T machine rotors any more (small shops probably still do)

    Any thoughts on these statements? Is it pretty standard to replace and not machine rotors these days?
    having a flat and clean surface for the pads are a must so either machining or new rotors are a MUST regardless...

    11mm is like brand new, so I'm sure you either you've misquoted OR they are lying to you... (https://www.carid.com/articles/is-it...ew-brakes.html)

    For big trucks, machining is worth while and I believe Ford/Chevy will do this for about $25 per rotor for your suburban/tahoe/expedition/f150/superduty

    however everything else I think is mostly replace.

    You can significantly cut the price of this down by doing it yourself, which is the easiest job next to changing oil on your car... and aftermarket rotors/pads from Wagner etc.. are just as good as any VAG ones I've ever used. BUT if you don't have the time, tools or skills... you can shop around as this is a basic consumable that anyone can do.

    @ $975 better come with new brake fluid.

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    Thanks for the info.

    If it was summer and the weekend i'd probably look into doing it myself but at this point i just don't have the time/patience and it's our only car at the moment so can't risk it being out of commission.

    I did call the SA back regarding the measurement, and i guess they include the backing plate as part of the measurement. I guess it's actually about 4mm left. Based on that link, i suppose it may be a bit early and could wait a bit.

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    Standard procedure. In most cases, when it is time to replace the pads, rotors and fluids will be replaced as well.

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    Not that rare to replace rotors, and machining isn't common at all any more. Parts are cheaper than spending more time on labour.
    No reason you need a dealership to do this work though. Or even a mechanic. Unless there's something unique on your Audi, swapping rotors and pads should be very easy for anyone to do themselves.

    No idea if you can get off brand parts. I like rockauto, but not sure if they do German shit.
    Quote Originally Posted by killramos View Post
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    You realize you are talking to the guy who made his own furniture out of salad bowls right?

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    Letting pads get to low can cause premature disc wear and vice versa.

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    don't think there is anything unique but again just don't have the time/patience especially in this cold weather with a non-heated garage and being our only vehicle.

    Will definitely try doing the rears myself this summer as they are getting close as well.

    thanks for the feedback everyone.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sabad66 View Post
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    don't think there is anything unique but again just don't have the time/patience especially in this cold weather with a non-heated garage and being our only vehicle.

    Will definitely try doing the rears myself this summer as they are getting close as well.

    thanks for the feedback everyone.
    Omfg 975 is for the front brakes? Give balance auto a call

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    Just for future ref - best to consult a Audi-specific forum:

    To the original poster: Your friends are wrong when it comes to BMWs and they're wrong when it comes to Audis also. As others have said, it's the thickness that's important. I use only OEM pads and rotors and I've never had to replace rotors more than every other pad change. Same applies to BMW, and I've done a lot of brake jobs on my BMWs over the years.

    There is no need to turn rotors if they are in good shape and you're not having any warping or pulsation (if I had any warping or pulsation, I would be changing the rotors out, regardless). The pads will quickly mate to the new or old rotors unless there is excessive grooving or pitting of the old rotors.

    Not to be too cynical, but dealers LOVE brake jobs. Easy work, lots of profit, and most customers seem to almost expect to pay out the wazoo for German brake jobs.
    https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-...2807609/page3/

    I would have pulled the wheel off and taken a quick look - even in an unheated garage. That way you can at least direct the mechanics how to proceed with knowledge of your own.

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    Quote Originally Posted by revelations View Post
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    Just for future ref - best to consult a Audi-specific forum:

    I would have pulled the wheel off and taken a quick look - even in an unheated garage. That way you can at least direct the mechanics how to proceed with knowledge of your own.

    I agree with the statement from that forum. Assuming the rotors aren't warped and are in good functioning condition, and also assuming there is no uneven wear like Mercedes likes to do with some of their cars (apparently the pad is smaller than the disc, essentially carving a groove over time) then you can re-use the rotors.

    I know it was far older, but when I had my Audi TT, I replaced just the pads and it worked perfectly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kloubek View Post
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    I agree with the statement from that forum. Assuming the rotors aren't warped and are in good functioning condition, and also assuming there is no uneven wear like Mercedes likes to do with some of their cars (apparently the pad is smaller than the disc, essentially carving a groove over time) then you can re-use the rotors.

    I know it was far older, but when I had my Audi TT, I replaced just the pads and it worked perfectly.
    Yeah i think i'd avoid swapping the rotors if i was doing it myself, but i guess it isn't an option if you're paying a shop to do it. Royal Oak Audi won't change the pads alone unless you agree to swap the rotors.


    On a related note, could there be issues with warranty if you change brakes yourself without going through a licensed shop?

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    Quote Originally Posted by sabad66 View Post
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    Yeah i think i'd avoid swapping the rotors if i was doing it myself, but i guess it isn't an option if you're paying a shop to do it. Royal Oak Audi won't change the pads alone unless you agree to swap the rotors.


    On a related note, could there be issues with warranty if you change brakes yourself without going through a licensed shop?
    Brakes are consumables and the dealership will deny 95% of "warranty" claims on brakes after a very short period of time - unless they are obviously installed wrong or something falls out for eg.

    Definitely avoid dealerships unless there is a valid reason (eg recall/OEM warranty).

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    I do not machine at my shop as the labor is more than the rotor most of the time. 99% of the time we replace rotors.

    We have done pad only services only if the customer requests it. A big reason for this is due to comebacks. Vibration, pulsing, and noise they are also made aware of this.

    If you do choose to change your rear brakes in the summer you will need a scan tool (or be good with wire leads) to retract the rear caliper.

    I can also create a quote for parts and install as well as parts only using good quality replacement parts

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    Somebody go tell the track rats that they should change their rotors every time they swap in new brake pads...and get laughed out of the paddock.

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    Quote Originally Posted by r3ccOs View Post
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    Omfg 975 is for the front brakes? Give balance auto a call
    That's cheap. Full pads and rotor on my E63 with labour... $6,500.

    Pulsation comes from pad material deposited on the rotors. It is rare for a rotor to warp. If you rotors are thick enough, just replace the pads. It is so easy, even when cold.

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    In general, especially for heavier cars equipped with the smallest brakes that the manufacturer could get away with, yep you do have to replace rotors with the pads. OEM for OEM anyways.

    Particularly with the fronts. Rears you may be able to get away with reusing rotors once. This is based on my unscientific experience with my former 98 Z28 (owner changed front pads and kept
    old rotors, they squealed and vibrated/pulsed under use) as well as with my 14 6-6 (prior owner changed rear pads and kept old rotors, no pulsation but a little more noisy at times.)

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    never seen an Audi with 7mm backing plate. get a second opinion they are all 4 mm. you generally get 4 -5000 kms per mm
    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/3/34/The_Smoking_Man_(X-Files).jpg

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    If it brakes smooth and straight, just pad slam it. There's a reason service writers make more than techs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CokerRat View Post
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    Somebody go tell the track rats that they should change their rotors every time they swap in new brake pads...and get laughed out of the paddock.
    yup, if the race cars aren't doing it, why would a street car need to do it?

    I use hawk blues in my race car which are basically 1960s technology for brakes, aka work like grinding discs, and I mate those up wiht the cheapest chinese rotors I can find. They chew through rotors like crazy to the point where if I'm racing at night i've seen showers of sparks (just like someone taking a grinder to metal) flying past both my windows under heavy braking. Even I do not need to change my rotors with every pad change.

    I also worked at audi long time ago. They would routinely call rotors on 3 year old vehicles because they were rusty... imagine that, exposed metal that is rusty after it just went through the wash kid for a prewash and sat on the lot for a bit.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CokerRat View Post
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    Somebody go tell the track rats that they should change their rotors every time they swap in new brake pads...and get laughed out of the paddock.

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