Trailering Noob Advice

[dirtsniffer]

Hey, I am currently looking at moving into the world of towing. No more tenting for us.

Does anyone have good inspection reports or things to look out for when buying a trailer? Lien Check?

Any suggested brands for equalizer hitch?

The plan is to get a 24-26' trailer in the 4000 lbs range.

[ExtraSlow]

I have so many thoughts on this subject it's ridiculous.
First things first, what's the tow vehicle and what cargo /gear/passengers do you normally carry in the tow vehicle? Worry about this before you figure out the trailer.

[dirtsniffer]

2015 silverado 5.3L -3.42 gears - payload is roughly 1650 lbs, maximum towing is 9700.

Passengers (beyond the 150 lbs included in payload) 300 lbs (fatty me, wife, baby)
dog 75 lbs
gas? 140 lbs
gear ~300 lbs

total ~800 lbs. at least 800 lbs of tongue weight. Figured a 4000 lbs trailer would put the tongue weight around 400-600 depending but still some payload capacity there.

I should take the truck to the scale to confirm the exact payload. I should add that the only reason I am this far along is cause of the information you have posted in other threads. so thanks.

[ExtraSlow]

Different trailers have wildly different percentages of total weight as tongue weight. some are as low as 8%, and some are up to 20%. It's really hard to guess.
Also, most people carry more than 300lbs of gear in the truck. for me, once I have a generator, some firewood, a few tools, bikes and a cooler of beer, I'm 500lbs easily.

Go to the scale, it's fun!

Assuming you are looking at used trailers. Haven't ever done a lein check, but I suppose you could. My advice for a first trailer is to get one that's at the lower end of your budget. Most people will eitehr figure out they hate owning a trailer, or decide to get something very different within a few years. So no sense spending a lot of money on this one when you aren't likely to keep it very long.

Best value in used trailers is if you find someone who has made small improvements to it (and is proud to tell you all about them) and can give you some tips about annual maintenance. Act dumb, and if they spend effort teaching you what you need, then that's the kind of guy you want to buy from. Check the manufacturing date code on the tires, and mentally plan on replacing tires around five years of age regardless of visual condition.

I use a cheapie Curt WDH without any kind of sway control. It's been fine for me. There are better systems out there, and they cost more. Check out etrailer website for cheapie prices.

[suntan]

No need for a WDH. Just plop that trailer right on top of the ball. If it sags in the middle, you're good to go.

[HiTempguy1]

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No need for a WDH. Just plop that trailer right on top of the ball. If it sags in the middle, you're good to go.

For 4k lbs, I agree, I wouldn't bother, waste of time, money, and makes backing up a pain with certain systems.

Sway control, different story. Even a simple friction system makes a hell of a difference, Princess Auto and Curt have the same units for dirt cheap.

One thing to keep in mind about tongue weights is propane tanks. Those bastards are heavy, and will probably be on the tongue.

[dirtsniffer]

Went and weighed myself and the truck. More than I thought so I guess that's good. I think with some conservative numbers I am still alright with a 4000 lb trailer. Truck was weighed with myself and almost a full tank of gas. I do want sway control. Though I thought it went with a weight distributing hitch. My BIL sent me some info on a blue ox sway pro, seems legit.

Attachment 81677

I am budgeting around $10K for a trailer, not sure I really want to go less than that. Body or hail damage is fine though. As I am sure I will run this into a tree or two (best case). The wife and I both grew up camping, but we have been tenting as adults. So comfortable in the fact that camping is a part of how we want to raise our kid(s).

[HiTempguy1]

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Went and weighed myself and the truck. More than I thought so I guess that's good. I think with some conservative numbers I am still alright with a 4000 lb trailer. Truck was weighed with myself and almost a full tank of gas. I do want sway control. Though I thought it went with a weight distributing hitch. My BIL sent me some info on a blue ox sway pro, seems legit.

You don't need a blue ox pro, and after extensive research, nobody can provide any definitive proof the "expensive" setups somehow work anybetter.

I tow 14k lb enclosed car trailer fully loaded with this setup all over the country. Dirt cheap.

https://www.amazon.ca/17422-Weight-D...keywords=17422

Your's with the proper weight would be this lighter model:
https://www.amazon.ca/17345-Trunnion...rds=curt+17345

Then add a CURT/Princess Auto friction sway control for $60-$80.

https://www.curtmfg.com/part/17200

Call it a day. No need to waste money just because... unless you want to.

[dirtsniffer]

haha nope can't say i need so spend extra money. Happy to save $500.

Any advice on buying a trailer is still appreciated.

[spikerS]

please, disregard Suntan's and HiTemps first posts. A WD hitch is the smart way to go for any 1/2 ton truck that is pulling a holiday trailer over 19' IMO. Having a properly setup hitch and trailer to keep everything level is 100% the smart way to go. If you are sagging in at the hitch, you risk catching that low point and causing damage, especially in campgrounds or campsites that have any kind of uneven terrain. Keeping things level stops un-neccessary bouncing while at speed, and keeps better pressure on your steering axle. Additionally, never count on the dry weight as you will NEVER be at that weight. By the time you add propane tank(s), Battery(ies), all your camping essentials that usually never leave the trailer like cutlery, pots/pans, camp chairs, bathroom supplies, etc, you will always be well in excess of that weight, and you will be surprised by how much.

Many people subscribe to not exceeding 80% of the tow vehicle's capacity for towing. While it is no rule, there is some smart thought in that. Your vehicle may have a redline of 10k RPM, but you very rarely have it there except in extreme sircumstances, but you never ride it there all the time. I personally like that school of though, so, if I were in your shoes, I would not be looking at a setup that would never be more than 7500 lbs fully loaded with everything you might bring, and a full tank of water, but again, just my $0.02.

I would also advise to get a trailer brake controller if you don't already have one, and make sure that it is easily accesible during normal driving conditions. If you end up with a fishtailing situation, you want to be able to grab that manual trailer brake lever and apply the trailer brakes to help stop that. Also, a normal 10k WD hitch will supply all the anti-sway you will probably need unless you end up with a significantly longer trailer. I mean, it doesn't hurt to have a stand alone anti sway bar, but I have never been in a position that I wished I had one while towing. But they are cheap, so, if you are more comfortable having one, it won't hurt anything by having it.

When buying a used trailer, inspect it just as you would a used car. Bring it to an RV dealership and have them go over it. Also, look at the roof seams from the inside and around windows, vents, and the A/C unit for water damage. If you see any, I would probably walk away. once water starts getting in, things go bad pretty quick and it is a headache you don't want to deal with.

figure on replacing batteries and propane tanks when purchasing a used trailer, as well as needing to do an axle service as well and might as well replace the wheel bearings at the same time. As extraslow said, you will probably be replacing the trailer tires pretty quick too as they are pretty sensitive to UV and breakdown way faster then motor vehicle tires.

[ExtraSlow]

With a trailer that light, you can have a very basic WD setup. Until you get into things like Hensley or Propride, all the basic ones work about the same. I have a Curt one very similar to that one linked by HiTemp, and have had no issues. No anti-sway device on mine, haven't needed it.

when looking at trailers, keep in mind that lightweight models often make design or construction compromises that mean they are slightly less durable. So a heavier trailer is sometimes just what you want. In terms of difficulty towing, SIZE of trailer makes more difference than weight anyway. a thirty footer is a lot worse in wind than a 19 footer, even if they were exactly the same weight.

If you can, it's worth figuring out the size of the fresh, grey and black tanks on trailers you are considering. Bigger tanks make life easier. It's worth knowing the age of the propane tanks too. Not that expensive to get them re certified, but nice when you don't have to.

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figure on replacing batteries and propane tanks when purchasing a used trailer, as well as needing to do an axle service as well and might as well replace the wheel bearings at the same time. As extraslow said, you will probably be replacing the trailer tires pretty quick too as they are pretty sensitive to UV and breakdown way faster then motor vehicle tires.

If you do get the trailer inspected, make sure they inspect all four brakes! probbaly half the trailers on the road have either a) poorly adjusted brakes or b) leaking axle/bearing seals that have contaminated the brakes with grease.

Or just plan to replace all that yourself. If you are mechanical it's not that hard and parts are cheap online. I've never paid for an inspection, but I'm like that.

I wouldn't "figure" on replacing the propane tanks or batteries, but it can be required sometimes. Propane tanks and tires are stricktly a factor of age. Batteries can last nearly forever is taken care of, but thier lives are very short if abused.

[suntan]

Yes I'm just kidding. I did however see some doofus last year at the Petro-Canada 22X that did just that - a 25 footer on a ball. Nothing else. Fucker didn't even have a brake controller. At least he had the chains on.

[HiTempguy1]

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please, disregard Suntan's and HiTemps first posts. A WD hitch is the smart way to go for any 1/2 ton truck that is pulling a holiday trailer over 19' IMO.

I never said anything about NOT having a WD hitch. I clearly say DO have one.

I also say that sway control is NOT necessary. I didn't feel the need to explain to him why having a WD hitch typically negated the need for sway control.

YOU SHOULD NOT, ABSOLUTELY, POSITIVELY NOT OVERSIZE YOUR WD HITCH SETUP. THIS FUCKS WITH THINGS AND CAN NEGATIVELY AFFECT HANDLING. You do NOT use a 10k WD setup (with the trunions being for the expected tongue weight) on a lighter setup. You also don't undersize them.

Jesus.

[spikerS]

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I wouldn't "figure" on replacing the propane tanks or batteries, but it can be required sometimes. Propane tanks and tires are stricktly a factor of age. Batteries can last nearly forever is taken care of, but thier lives are very short if abused.

I say figure on it as batteries are very rarely taken care of properly, and most trailers in the $10k range are going to be more than 5 years old, so if you go in assuming you will have to replace them and factor in those costs, it is not a surprise when you have to and a pleasant surprise if you don't.

[ExtraSlow]

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YOU SHOULD NOT, ABSOLUTELY, POSITIVELY NOT OVERSIZE YOUR WD HITCH SETUP. THIS FUCKS WITH THINGS AND CAN NEGATIVELY AFFECT HANDLING. You do NOT use a 10k WD setup (with the trunions being for the expected tongue weight) on a lighter setup. You also don't undersize them.

Yes, you need the right "strength" of bars for the WD setup. Don't get too big or it'll never work right and can be terribly dangerous.

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I say figure on it as batteries are very rarely taken care of properly, and most trailers in the $10k range are going to be more than 5 years old, so if you go in assuming you will have to replace them and factor in those costs, it is not a surprise when you have to and a pleasant surprise if you don't.

True story bro. In the end, a lot of people invest in a decent invertor generator and just give up on having a "decent" battery setup.

[spikerS]

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I never said anything about NOT having a WD hitch. I clearly say DO have one.

just sayin' LOL

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No need for a WDH. Just plop that trailer right on top of the ball. If it sags in the middle, you're good to go.

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For 4k lbs, I agree, I wouldn't bother, waste of time, money, and makes backing up a pain with certain systems.

[dirtsniffer]

My plan is to have a WD hitch. Anyone provide a ballpark cost on batteries / axle and brake service?

I am thinking a private sale should be at least $2,000 cheaper than the dealer which would have inspected these things. Also have been told to check the awning and the seals around anything on the roof.

Also, any way to approximate hitch weight on a trailer?

[suntan]

Batteries range from $120 to sky's the limit.

Note that unless you're always boondocking, your battery might not get much use. Lots of nice campgrounds have at least electricity. Also you can't run things like your microwave and AC on just battery.

Don't take to a dealership for inspection. Take it to an RV repair place.

[spikerS]

if you can get the model number of the trailer you can usually google it. Also, most trailers have that info on the trailer tag mounted inside one of the trailer cupboards, or on a yellow tag on the door jam on the main entrance door.

[ExtraSlow]

If there's specific ones you are looking at, pm me the advert or post it. I love thinking about trailers.