Detailing noob - where to start.

[ExtraSlow]

I'll be happy if I get it clean and waxed. That would be more paint maintenance than I've done to any of my previous 20 vehicles. Stupid black paint.

[Maxx Mazda]

Another tip I’ve used from years past, is on my clay bar cycles (about twice a year) since the goal is to remove ALL contaminants, I will use straight dish soap for my initial wash. It strips wax, grease, and Amy organic materials (such as sap) which is perfect for a pre-clay wash. It’s important not to use it regularly as it is quite harsh, but for those times it’s amazing. Also use dish soap and water in a spray bottle as lube for my clay bar. Once flaying is complete, final wash and rinse, and the paint is ready for correction, polish, and wax.

[HiSpec]

A little tip I learn from a professional Beyond detailer is to use baby shampoo (with water) as clay lube. A good alternative to auto shampoo and dawn with water.

[schocker]

If your car isn't too dirty, this is the MVP washmethod I have found

I just do one cap of ONR into one 4 L jug of distilled water. Much faster and easier than normal two bucket.
Supplies I mostly get from Carzilla. If you buy ONR, you can portion it into a clay lube (Also quick dea in a spray bottle to use as clay lube
http://optimumforums.org/topic/63301...nitive-thread/
Claying is the worst of times but the results are always good. Claying pads/mits save lots of time and if you have access to a polisher, paintwork cleanser is even faster.

[Buster]

Buy car

Ful wrap from Rainer

Done

[Kijho]

Picked up this Gyeon Iron Remover over the weekend to try out. I've used Iron-X alot before but it's about $30/ bottle. This stuff was $25 and worked fantastic. Really good especially on white paint...

This is the stuff here: https://www.carzilla.ca/gyeon-quartz...-remover-500ml



Now I just need to get over the rest of the car with the nanoskin clay mitt

[crusher777]

Amazon.ca has a good deal on right now for chemical guys jetseal with pete 53 with 3 microfiber cloths and 2 applicator pads.

https://www.amazon.ca/Chemical-Guys-.../dp/B018M31X48

the jetseal alone is worth $50.

[Kijho]

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Amazon.ca has a good deal on right now for chemical guys jetseal with pete 53 with 3 microfiber cloths and 2 applicator pads.

https://www.amazon.ca/Chemical-Guys-.../dp/B018M31X48

the jetseal alone is worth $50.

Oh man that's a good price. Literally resisting buying it just for the sake of buying it haha...

[G-ZUS]

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I love it when I hear people wanting to learn to detail their own vehicles.

Clay bar is not a hassle if you use clay pad. It's fun and results are sometimes quite rewarding.

You got the process right, before any type of paint correction claying is needed.

If you are serious about doing minor paint correction, I'm teaching a course on how to use a DA 101 (FREE)

Course are at a beginner's level and they covers diff type of polishes, pads, how a DA works and proper technique.


Happy detailing

Can you post more info on this course

[jaylo]

I used to do the old school clay by hand then I found the Nanoskin foam Pad fine grade works as well, though you have to use traditional clay on nooks and crannies.

Usually in general the steps will be to decontaminate, cut, polish, then protect.

The traditional/cheapest and most rewarding way is to lather with IronX or similar, wash, clay by hand with a rapid detailer, wash, cut and polish, then apply sealant/wax.

Probably will be less than $400 and you can reuse them.

PM me I can probably give you a demo.

[rlim891]

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Can you post more info on this course

It will be on a Saturday (6-7 hours). Haven't planned out the date yet as we have been swamped lately.

Thinking after May long weekend. Send me a PM and I'll touch base once I figure out the dates.

Trying to keep the class small to about 3-4 people.

[speedog]

Bumpity bump bump, haven't been a detailing kind of guy for decades but middle kid put me in a situation where I have to now.

Now to be honest my son was trying to do good, his intent was to make my wife's black SUV's paint look like new - time had taken it's toll and his solution was to spray clear lacquer on and then buff it out with a buffer (which we did not own).

Never the less, the spray on lacquer hardened into an ugly mess, I bought a random orbital buffer and no end of buffing was going to fix it. I'm not sure what it was that he bought as the cans were long gone on the garbage and he did this without consulting my wife or myself.

So through trial and error and after doing a fair bit of reading, the only thing that removed the clear lacquer (don't cringe) was lacquer thinner. Worked like a charm but didn't leave behind a very nice looking surface, paint was undamaged which was a good start.

So after the lacquer thinner I did a polishing compound that I let dry and then hand buffed off. Then a micro-polishing glaze that dries and then gets buffed off. Then a spray wax detailer that I follow up with a clay bar and then a final carnuba wax spray that I buff to a nice shine.

Hoo boy it's a lot of work.

Before is hazy party, after is shiny part.

[Maxx Mazda]

How old is your son? he Spray painted a car to make it shinier? Did I read that right?

[speedog]

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How old is your son? he Spray painted a car to make it shinier? Did I read that right?

You did read that right and he is easily old enough that he should've known better but he sometimes does things without properly researching them or asking the people it might affect. He's borderline genius and as such has amazed us with some of the stuff he has done or created but massive brain fades like this are mixed in at the same time.

[Xtrema]

Well at least we all learnt something.

And tell your son, there is something called Youtube.

[speedog]

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Well at least we all learnt something.

And tell your son, there is something called Youtube.

One thing that is amazing is the clay bar, makes the paint feel ultra smooth afterwards. Went to KMS Tools on Saturday and picked up a handful of 6" buffing hook and loop pads I can use with my orbital polisher - a different pad for each type of product. Certainly is much easier than doing it by hand.

[ThePenIsMightier]

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Bumpity bump bump, haven't been a detailing kind of guy for decades but middle kid put me in a situation where I have to now.

Now to be honest my son was trying to do good, his intent was to make my wife's black SUV's paint look like new - time had taken it's toll and his solution was to spray clear lacquer on and then buff it out with a buffer (which we did not own).

Never the less, the spray on lacquer hardened into an ugly mess, I bought a random orbital buffer and no end of buffing was going to fix it. I'm not sure what it was that he bought as the cans were long gone on the garbage and he did this without consulting my wife or myself.

So through trial and error and after doing a fair bit of reading, the only thing that removed the clear lacquer (don't cringe) was lacquer thinner. Worked like a charm but didn't leave behind a very nice looking surface, paint was undamaged which was a good start.

So after the lacquer thinner I did a polishing compound that I let dry and then hand buffed off. Then a micro-polishing glaze that dries and then gets buffed off. Then a spray wax detailer that I follow up with a clay bar and then a final carnuba wax spray that I buff to a nice shine.

Hoo boy it's a lot of work.

Before is hazy party, after is shiny part.

I'm a long way from an expert, but my path would have gone directly to wet sanding.
I think your lacquer thinner only worked because you caught it assumedly within the time before it's fully cured.
Either method sounds like terrible amounts of work, but I wonder which would've been worse...