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Thread: Rust protection, people still do this?

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    Default Rust protection, people still do this?

    Just got a car I plan to keep for several years. Been looking into rust protection and there several choices, even an electronic module (like cathotic protection for pipelines??)? Anyone know if this type actually works?

    Then there is Krown and Rust Check, with several varieties of each.

    Be interested to know what car enthusiasts think?
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    Thanks for the link, would still like to know if the cathotic protection for vehicles is just snake oil, or does it actually work?

    Any other thoughts on rust protection?
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    Although the electronic type makes sense, I've never heard of anyone who uses them with good effects.

    Oil-based coatings underneath do work. There are do it yourself kits or companies. Suspect the thuroughness of the person doing the work makes much more difference than the particular product.

    Rubberized or asphalt style undercoating is bad.
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    Good info, thanks.

    I’m leaning towards getting it done. Any recommendations for specific applications or where to get it done?
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    How long do you actually plan to keep the car for?

    Most vehicles have 7-10 year corrosion warranties. I personally wouldn't worry about it here. The only way to prevent rust is to not drive it in the spring/winter.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mzdspd View Post
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    How long do you actually plan to keep the car for?

    Most vehicles have 7-10 year corrosion warranties. I personally wouldn't worry about it here. The only way to prevent rust is to not drive it in the spring/winter.
    The corrosion warranty is on rust getting bad enough that it perforates through components. If you want to keep the vehicle long term (20 years) then an annual oil film application is the best bet. By keeping the rust at bay, it makes it much easier to work on as well (eg. Suspension components). I've been getting this bio based oil spray from Napa for $30 and doing it myself every season with an air compressor.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mzdspd View Post
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    How long do you actually plan to keep the car for?

    Most vehicles have 7-10 year corrosion warranties. I personally wouldn't worry about it here. The only way to prevent rust is to not drive it in the spring/winter.
    Have you ever heard of anyone successfully making a corrosion claim? Every time I read about one, the manufacturer finds a way to deny it.

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    actually, we do rust claims all the time at VW.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitsu3000gt View Post
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    Have you ever heard of anyone successfully making a corrosion claim? Every time I read about one, the manufacturer finds a way to deny it.
    I've never really known anyone that has needed a corrosion claim on a vehicle within the warranty period.

    Regular washing in the winter goes a long way. Most of the vehicles I see with rust usually have some sort of damage or exposed paint or are beat up oil patch trucks. And then usually anything 15+ years old has rust of course.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mzdspd View Post
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    I've never really known anyone that has needed a corrosion claim on a vehicle within the warranty period.

    Regular washing in the winter goes a long way. Most of the vehicles I see with rust usually have some sort of damage or exposed paint or are beat up oil patch trucks. And then usually anything 15+ years old has rust of course.
    Calgary is using a lot more salt on the roads in the winter. Cars are starting to rust faster than they used to in this city. Regular washing is the key but you have to make sure you are getting into the nooks and crannies like wheel wells, undercarriage, ets. because just washing the exterior panels isn't going to cut it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by heavyD View Post
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    Calgary is using a lot more salt on the roads in the winter. Cars are starting to rust faster than they used to in this city. Regular washing is the key but you have to make sure you are getting into the nooks and crannies like wheel wells, undercarriage, ets. because just washing the exterior panels isn't going to cut it.
    The new liquid brine is harder on vehicles. Splashes up into nooks and crannies easier I suspect.
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    Good point re the washing. Getting into nooks and crannies on low-clearance, large diameter wheel vehicles isn't that easy to do. Do all wand wash bays have same setup?
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    Quote Originally Posted by ExtraSlow View Post
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    Although the electronic type makes sense, I've never heard of anyone who uses them with good effects.

    Oil-based coatings underneath do work. There are do it yourself kits or companies. Suspect the thuroughness of the person doing the work makes much more difference than the particular product.

    Rubberized or asphalt style undercoating is bad.
    Dang...thats not good as I did the rubberized asphalt style coating. But I did it myself, and removed all the underpanelling, had the car on the hoist. Sprayed every area I could. Used 2 cans. Many coats. We'll see how it holds up. I wash my car weekly at work as well. Perks of working at a dealership
    Originally posted by GTS Jeff
    You know those bored stay at home moms who's entire lives revolve around driving their kids to soccer, various cleaning accessories, and worrying about neighbourhood rapists? The kind of people that watch the View and go "uh huh..." Those unfulfilled people who try to fill the void in their empty lives by writing whiny letters to the editor complaining about shit that no one really cares about?

    Well imagine if instead of writing that letter to the editor, she just posts on a car forum for car enthusiasts. That's Kritafo.

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    I've used the rubberized spray coating from Canadian Tire for a whole under carriage. It goes on real easy and dries real fast, but it really doesn't last on curved surfaces like wheel wells very well. Does anyone know if a product that's more like the asphalt spray the shops use, but in a spray can form? I've used the duplicolor bedliner spray cans as well for touch ups, but they take 3-4 coats. They wouldn't be ideal to use for a whole under carriage.

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    Use oil, not the thick stuff. Way better.
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    Lasts longer? Doesn't jam up bolts?

    Edit: sorry, just read your answers in the other thread.
    Last edited by Chantastic; 07-03-2018 at 08:57 PM.

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    Sorry, that last response was a bit short.
    Benefits to the oily it waxy coatings 1) doesn't jam bolts. 2) doesn't trap water. Benefits to the asphalt or rubber types 1) deadens sound. 2) could last longer if it doesn't peel or loose adhesion anywhere, otherwise, you'll think it's lasting but it's harming.
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    Sorry just read your responses in the other thread. I guess if the thick stuff is applied on a perfectly clean, dry underbody it should be very effective? I wonder about all the older vehicles on the road that are relatively rust free and have owners that generally don't take that much care of them (Toyota's). Aren't they more likely to have had the thick stuff at some point? It seems like the oil is less popular, or maybe just less known?

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    My 2015 SUV is rusted pretty bad already. Recently had a trailer hitch installed, and they had to torch the bolts off to lower the exhaust. Muffler isn't perforated but it isn't pretty. Brakes are in bad shape. Whenever a shop looks under the car, they ask if I bought it out east or something.

    The only real difference between it and other Seattle cars is I take it to ski resorts and through the passes. Always thought the rust proofing upsell was a cash grab, but if it works at all, it would have been cheaper than dealing with the damage so soon.

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