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Thread: Rear Main Seal Additive ?

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    Default Rear Main Seal Additive ?

    I went to a jiffylube to get an oil change on my winter Santa Fe and in the notes they wrote down small leak from oil pan and rear main seal. I haven't seen any leaks in my car before and got me all paranoid. A rear main seal is a big job....

    I'm monitoring to see if i see any leaks and will probably head over to my friends shop with a hoist to further investigate when i have the time but IF there is one that is minor, has anyone used a additive to your oil that stops a rear main seal leak? I know it sounds dumb but read a few people use it to prevent a $1,000 repair bill.

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    Take a look at LiquiMoly Motor Oil Saver. Reviews seem favorable.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ducaudi View Post
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    Take a look at LiquiMoly Motor Oil Saver. Reviews seem favorable.
    Strangely we were recommended Moly-Save specifically for our Santa Fe 3.3L. Seems to be much happier with it. Run it in all my cars now. Interestingly it was developed to be used in Aircraft so the engine wouldn't seize on loss of oil pressure. This is from the company propaganda but I've read it elsewhere too (BITOG maybe?)

    What is MoS2?
    So what is Liqui-moly MoS2?
    At Liqui-Moly, it actually all started with this product 40 years ago and today it is still our leading oil additive. MoS2 was originally developed to maintain lubrication in piston-driven aircraft engines in the event of a loss in oil pressure and to prevent complete engine seizure. The incredible low-friction and robust lubrication properties of Molybdenum-Disulfide (MoS2) have been well known for years. The production and patenting of a liquid, additive form of Molybdenum-Disulfide in 1957, was Liqui-Moly’s first product and formed the basis of the company.
    Cos...

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Cosworth View Post
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    Strangely we were recommended Moly-Save specifically for our Santa Fe 3.3L. Seems to be much happier with it. Run it in all my cars now. Interestingly it was developed to be used in Aircraft so the engine wouldn't seize on loss of oil pressure. This is from the company propaganda but I've read it elsewhere too (BITOG maybe?)
    I have the same Sante Fe, the 3.3L.

    I guess it doesn't hurt to just add it in even if there is no major leak? At most it might have been a sweat or something there for them to mention it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jabjab View Post
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    I have the same Sante Fe, the 3.3L.

    I guess it doesn't hurt to just add it in even if there is no major leak? At most it might have been a sweat or something there for them to mention it.
    I had no issues (except the annoying startup, which I am not sure is normal) running it. All I heard is use 1 bottle the first time, then 1/2 a bottle there after as some of it sticks to the insides so you don't need as much.
    Cos...

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    I'd review it. Maybe just sweating vs full leak. Winter will expose it more so with a bigger spread of hot and cold cycles. Do you find you need to top the oil up between changes?
    The pan gasket, might try tightning the bolts a bit. Like 1/8th of a turn type. Do not over tighten at all.
    Rear main seal, your only option is the seal softener/oil additive.

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Cosworth View Post
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    I had no issues (except the annoying startup, which I am not sure is normal) running it. All I heard is use 1 bottle the first time, then 1/2 a bottle there after as some of it sticks to the insides so you don't need as much.
    What start up issue? Is it loud for a few seconds on cold start up? Almost like chains rattling? I've been told by Hyundai that it is normal and using a oem filter helps with that cause of a check valve or something.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mr2mike View Post
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    I'd review it. Maybe just sweating vs full leak. Winter will expose it more so with a bigger spread of hot and cold cycles. Do you find you need to top the oil up between changes?
    The pan gasket, might try tightning the bolts a bit. Like 1/8th of a turn type. Do not over tighten at all.
    Rear main seal, your only option is the seal softener/oil additive.
    I haven't found the need to top up any oil. If it is a sweat vs full leak I'd rather use an additive now while i can before an additive wouldn't do anything cause a seal is so badly worn.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jabjab View Post
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    I went to a jiffylube to get an oil change on my winter Santa Fe and in the notes they wrote down small leak from oil pan and rear main seal. I haven't seen any leaks in my car before and got me all paranoid. A rear main seal is a big job....

    I'm monitoring to see if i see any leaks and will probably head over to my friends shop with a hoist to further investigate when i have the time but IF there is one that is minor, has anyone used a additive to your oil that stops a rear main seal leak? I know it sounds dumb but read a few people use it to prevent a $1,000 repair bill.
    Won't be the rear main, there's a oil pressure switch and harness that are notorious for leaks. $25 for the switch and $32 for the harness

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    Quote Originally Posted by jabjab View Post
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    What start up issue? Is it loud for a few seconds on cold start up? Almost like chains rattling? I've been told by Hyundai that it is normal and using a oem filter helps with that cause of a check valve or something.
    Ford was telling people that too, until it turned out to be stretched timing chains. don't believe them.

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    I've used one in the past, I think it was Blue Devil rear main stop leak, worked like a charm on that car
    Sig nuked by mod.

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    I've used ATP AT-205 re-seal in the past for a rear main seal leak, it helped/worked.

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    ordered a few bottles of the Liqui Moly Oil Saver from Amazon. Going to use a bottle and see how it goes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jabjab View Post
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    What start up issue? Is it loud for a few seconds on cold start up? Almost like chains rattling? I've been told by Hyundai that it is normal and using a oem filter helps with that cause of a check valve or something.
    Yep the same I would think. It just sounds rough for 20 seconds then is good. Isn't an issue on startup if it was running recently. Im not sure if it is the variable valve timing building oil pressure or something else. I hate it though. Feels like crap. Glad this was an economical choice compared to the Highlander we were looking at otherwise I'd be pissed. I like it for the $$ though over-all. Good decent bagger for wife, kids, and dog.

    Quote Originally Posted by ShermanEF9 View Post
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    Ford was telling people that too, until it turned out to be stretched timing chains. don't believe them.
    I've pushed super hard. They tell me it is normal also. Without it failing can't make them fix it, and they won't even investigate it.
    Last edited by The Cosworth; 11-01-2018 at 12:09 PM.
    Cos...

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    Quote Originally Posted by jabjab View Post
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    ordered a few bottles of the Liqui Moly Oil Saver from Amazon. Going to use a bottle and see how it goes.
    You should check the oil pressure switch before buying all that

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    Quote Originally Posted by eglove View Post
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    You should check the oil pressure switch before buying all that
    thanks! I will get it on a hoist this weekend.

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