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Thread: This weekend I learned that sometimes the Oil Change Date does matter.

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    Default This weekend I learned that sometimes the Oil Change Date does matter.

    Just a really odd thing i came across this weekend, figured i'd share in hopes it may help someone else in our Canadian arctic winters.

    Typically i have ignored oil change dates and just done the oil change based on mileage.

    I have a 2000 Yukon 1500, 340,000km, rarely gets used just a beater truck to haul my RV in the summer, typically sits in the winter, so it only gets about 5000km on it all year so i just change the oil in the spring every year. However i have been driving it this winter because my other car got written off by a stupid driver, and my bus stop is a 5 minute drive so i drive to the bus stop.

    Anyway, Monday last week i went to hop in before work and fired it up after it had been sitting since Thursday (had other arrangements on Friday) and my dash lit up, no oil pressure, and i could hear valve tick, which commonly happened before but would clear up after 5-10 seconds once the oil got to the top of the engine.. but this time i scraped my windows and it still hadn't cleared up, probably close to a minute... so i thought Shit... what now, lol. Checked the oil, it was fine, so I went to researching possible issues, lots of things pointing toward bad pressure sensors/sending units, even a couple professional opinions suggesting that. but i knew that wasn't it because the oil would still cycle if the sensor was bad, it would just have lights and the gauge would be on the ground. So after some searching i found a common issue to be the oil tube pickup gasket, seemed to be a common failure point and seemed to point at the symptoms i had. So i grabbed the gasket, whopping $3, lol, whatever, but then i had to also buy a oil pan gasket... that was a different story, $90 for that, damn. but it is what it is so i head to my buddy's garage with the gaskets and oil change supplies, we lifted up the truck to drop the oil pan, started with draining the oil, so i tossed the pan under and pulled the plug, walked away for 10 minutes, came back and the oil was just barely dripping out, but there was only a couple liters in the pan, thought it was odd but moved along, this is a big job, gotta drop the front diff to get the oil pan out, couple hours of working and cussing and the oil pan was free, lowered it down to pull it out and oil splashed on me, not unexpected but it was a lot, once we got the pan down, we saw it was half full of oil still. So at this point we thought maybe there was just excess sludge that had prevented the oil from draining, so we dumped the pan out and started cleaning it up with rags and a scraper, then we saw crystallization in the bottom of the pan, there was ice in there..... ice means water, so somehow condensation had build up to the point where the pickup tube was actually submerged in ice, and therefore unable to suck oil to bring it to the top of the engine. Was the first time me or any of the people helping had ever experienced this, realized afterward the issue could have been resolved with an oil change, and never would have happened in a warmer climate, and there was really no way to know what the issue was without dropping the pan anyway... i am still kinda confused why it didn't happen sooner, it's been -20 for a month straight and it just happened now. But anyway, we changed the o-ring anyway, because, why not? common failure point, got it all apart, it was $3, so whatever. put it all back together with a fresh filter and full synthetic, and it runs like a top now.

    So, lesson learned, even if its a very low usage vehicle, the date for oil changes does matter, i still think 3 months is bullshit, but maybe 6 months at least.

    You can flame me if you want for improper maintenance, it's all good, if this helps anybody it's worth it.
    Last edited by Thaco; 03-11-2019 at 08:51 AM.
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    Moisture is generally caused by doing short trips back and forth. Vehicle never fully warms up to let the moisture vaporize out of the oil.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Misterman View Post
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    Moisture is generally caused by doing short trips back and forth. Vehicle never fully warms up to let the moisture vaporize out of the oil.
    that'd do it then, like i said, bus stop is 5 minutes away, twice a day, not gonna warm it up for 15 minutes to drive 5 minutes. good to know... guess i have to take it for a run every couple weeks.
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    I have a few vehicles that get yearly oil changes, but they are usually driven like I’m leaving a bank robbery so moisture is not a problem. My experience is that oil change time intervals are for sales.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Misterman View Post
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    Moisture is generally caused by doing short trips back and forth. Vehicle never fully warms up to let the moisture vaporize out of the oil.
    What's a decent amount of run time to ensure it's vaporizing? I live in a small town now where the furthest I'll drive is about 8 minutes each way, now I'm wondering if I should be taking my truck on a bit of a longer drive once in a while.

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    This is one of the reasons why we think its a good idea to let a vehicle run for a few minutes when its stored, but in reality it doesn't do it any good.

    A vehicle needs to go through a complete heat cycle for things like moisture and burn off in a vehicle that has sat for a long time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darell_n View Post
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    I have a few vehicles that get yearly oil changes, but they are usually driven like I’m leaving a bank robbery so moisture is not a problem. My experience is that oil change time intervals are for sales.
    That makes sense, however do you have any concern with filter degradation (or is that even a thing?)

    I too have a car that only gets driven a probably 2k per year, and I never do short trips, drive it hard when warm, etc... but I always keep up on regular oil changes, because I have this - possibly irrational - fear that if I let it sit for too long then drive it hard, the filter will fall apart on me haha. Interested to know if I'm out to lunch or not.

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    Yeah definitely short trips in cold weather hurts the oil. I commonly drive to work in 2nd or 3rd gear just to get the engine temp as high as I can get it but for a 10 min drive, it's not really going to happen. On the weekend, I'll go for a 45 minute bomb around, hoping that boils some of the condensation off but the oil is definitely darker and old looking a lot faster in winter.

    A Yukon with a valve tick... you don't say... common issue with those motors.
    My dad struggled with the valve tick on his and did eventually get it freed up but it came back quickly but was more intermittent.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mr2mike View Post
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    Yeah definitely short trips in cold weather hurts the oil. I commonly drive to work in 2nd or 3rd gear just to get the engine temp as high as I can get it but for a 10 min drive, it's not really going to happen. On the weekend, I'll go for a 45 minute bomb around, hoping that boils some of the condensation off but the oil is definitely darker and old looking a lot faster in winter.

    A Yukon with a valve tick... you don't say... common issue with those motors.
    My dad struggled with the valve tick on his and did eventually get it freed up but it came back quickly but was more intermittent.
    5.3 and ticks are so common. Either lifter or exhaust manifolds

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    Quote Originally Posted by firebane View Post
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    5.3 and ticks are so common. Either lifter or exhaust manifolds
    mine's got a little of both, lol, good thing it's a beater, doesnt bother me any, its been a pretty reliable truck, i have had it 10 years and other than this time, the only other time it stranded me was a dead alternator on a long trip.
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    Quote Originally Posted by andyg16 View Post
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    What's a decent amount of run time to ensure it's vaporizing? I live in a small town now where the furthest I'll drive is about 8 minutes each way, now I'm wondering if I should be taking my truck on a bit of a longer drive once in a while.
    Hard to say any specific time, as it really depends how long something sits and how much moisture is in it. But generally if you make all short trips in that 5-8minute range, then a good 30 minute jaunt every few weeks should probably suffice.

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    If you can get the engine temp up all the way once a week to ensure the oil temp is above boiling for water, it should be good until the oil miles out. I always buy premium filters so I’m not concerned about those.

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    Thanks for the heads up!!! I always try to run the cars to full operating temps just to burn off the moisture, but it's been tough the past 6 weeks running my kids cars in -29c weather. I'll look changing the oil more frequently for the cars that aren't driven as much.
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    I have not heard of this particular issue, so this one is new to me. I used to work in a fast lube shop when I was 16, and we saw a lot of issues where oil wasn't changed at regular intervals. But only once did I ever see a vehicle come in on the time counter instead of KM driven, and we damn near sent them on their way without doing an oil change because the oil was still a nice golden color, but the owner was religious in changing his oil every 3 months, even if he only ever drove it from home to our shop in those 3 months...
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