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  1. #661
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hallowed_point View Post
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    Wow,I think that's an A-Line? Remember seeing them brand new in 2004-2005 also the red & black Team DH Cool that you're still riding it, those old marzocchi dual crown forks really are bullet proof. Probably why they stopped making them, well that an the weight. Nothing feels better to me than the Monster T/Shiver with the oil bath lubrication. My favorite era of DH/FR was the early to mid 2000's. Sure the bikes are tiny and steep HA compared to today's stuff, but they look so much better imo.
    I remember riding a late model Norco A-line and having such as blast. Then my buddy upgraded to a specialized status before then upgrading to a DEMO... I guess in comparison to modern Enduro/DH they were still very capable with their beefy 40mm triple crown Boxers/Zocchis and a slack head tube... but thinking about it now, there is no way to go nearly as quick without the modern long wheelbase and 29 wheels.

    New Bike day! (well it was a couple weeks ago)
    Blew up my DHX2 last season and needed a full rebuild... fuck was that expensive. As I typically bike Fish, Moose/Bragg and in the Columbia Valley, I sold the full squish and picked up a "new to me" hardcore hardtail frame and built it up.

    2021 Norco Torrent Steel frame L
    DVO Diamond @160mm
    XT 11 speed drivetrain w/ RF atlas crank
    XT 4 Pot brakes
    RF Turbine R wheels w/ Atlas hubs
    175mm reverb
    Magic Mary 2.6/Hans Dampf 2.35
    Crank bros DH

    Being about 6' - Norco kinda says I fall in between L and XL, but if I went XL the already long (1247mm) wheelbase grows another 50mm and I couldn't imagine technical climbs with that length. HOWEVER as it is a hardtail, I would imagine the extra length would result in the additional stability for speed and traction.

    Observations from going full squish to HT?
    With just a front fork as suspension, you do have to be A BIT more active with your body position to accommodate aHT angle changes, as it steepens a couple degrees when it goes through its travel. With the really modern Geo and length, I don't find much loss of capability descending, but then again I was never the fastest rider lol.
    Even with a good fork, which you use ALOT, you definitely feel a lot. If you are descending a lot of Rooty, chundery section, its best to be clipped. I find myself stopping more to work out the arm pump I develop.
    Like with Chromags, the steel frame does provide minimal damping and just like like Chromag, the faster you go, the better the frame deals with those oscillations.

    Climbing:
    Where I thought I'd lose some climbing traction, surprisingly I really haven't. I attribute this to a very steep 76 deg Seat tube angle, which actually steepens with the fork sag, and the long wheel base provides great stability. This being the first time running Hans Damp, just maybe is the best rear tire I've ever used. The negative is that with such a steep seat tube angle, you FEEL EVERYTHING in the saddle as you're basically right on top of the seat tube.

    Playfulness:
    I'm certain the 425mm chain stays play a role, but with a ridged rear end, the responsiveness to inputs are just crazy. Some people like to use suspension to preload, but I feel that without one there is no delay to any inputs and makes the experience cerebral. Like you don't have to "think about" when you hop, you just hops. When you want to initiate a flick, it just does... when you manual just pull and sit back.
    Though the chain stays are only 10mm shorter than my full squish, for some reason I just never case with this bike. Its like jumping with a unicycle... anywhere I want, I just look for the spot, jump and my back wheel ends lands where I want it to.

    definitely not a bike for everyone, and the frame is heavy AF - BUT I am definitely now a huge advocate for modern hardtails.

    I did notice that this Torrent is likely based on the Chromag Rootdown and very comparable to the Honzo ESD, Pole Taival
    Last edited by r3ccOs; 06-09-2022 at 08:55 AM.

  2. #662
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    Specialized is having some 2 for 1 tire specials. I picked up two Butcher GridTrail T7s 2.6s (don't really need the T9s and they were OOS) for $94 w/ taxes and free shipping

  3. #663
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    Question, I have a specialized fat boy but it has a 2x setup. I am tempted to go with a 1x setup but am really not sure what is worth looking at or what is even worthwhile given the supply chain issues currently.

    Beyond advice?

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  4. #664
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    What hub/freehub combo, how many cogs are on current cassette and what crank/derailleur/shifter do you have now?

  5. #665
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    Quote Originally Posted by ercchry View Post
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    What hub/freehub combo, how many cogs are on current cassette and what crank/derailleur/shifter do you have now?
    SRAM X7 Type 2, 10-speed x 2 with grip shift, 11-36 and a 104/64 front cog with grip shift. Crank is “Custom Samox, 2x10, alloy, 100mm CNC spindle, w/ BB, 104/64mm BCD spider.”

    I hate the grip shift, and definitely thing a 1x is the way to go, but don’t even know where to start with finding the right set to replace it.
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  6. #666
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    Quote Originally Posted by finboy View Post
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    SRAM X7 Type 2, 10-speed x 2 with grip shift, 11-36 and a 104/64 front cog with grip shift. Crank is “Custom Samox, 2x10, alloy, 100mm CNC spindle, w/ BB, 104/64mm BCD spider.”

    I hate the grip shift, and definitely thing a 1x is the way to go, but don’t even know where to start with finding the right set to replace it.
    https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/ should have sufficient information to get you rolling.

    https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...iant=303173219

    coupled with

    https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/pages/giant-cog

    It's really straightforward, I converted my wife's 2x10 and it was the best thing ever. Have owned multiple 1x10 conversions, do recommend.


    Weirdly wolftooth's site doesnt show the giant cog in the catalogue of parts available. Wonder if they've moved on given that this was the thing to do 7 years ago and now drivetrain tech is so far beyond this.

    I'd try talking to the service desk at your preferred LBS

  7. #667
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    Deore M4100 or M5100. Cheapest 1x you're going to get, and it's a quality drivetrain.

  8. #668
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    Quote Originally Posted by finboy View Post
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    SRAM X7 Type 2, 10-speed x 2 with grip shift, 11-36 and a 104/64 front cog with grip shift. Crank is “Custom Samox, 2x10, alloy, 100mm CNC spindle, w/ BB, 104/64mm BCD spider.”

    I hate the grip shift, and definitely thing a 1x is the way to go, but don’t even know where to start with finding the right set to replace it.
    You don't need a whole new drivetrain to replace it. Just find a narrow-wide chainring that fits your crank, then ditch that front derailleur and shifter. You may need spacers for your crank so that your chainline lines up appropriately. Chain Reaction Cycles has a lot of options too.

  9. #669
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    Simple:

    -Wolf tooth goat link for the existing derailleur
    -aftermarket 11-46,48, or 50 10sp cassette (sunrace, and msc make these for cheap)
    -narrowwide chainring in a 28-34 depending on terrain. (I’m no expert on fat bike chainlines but my old 2x converted bike had the narrowwide on the inner, smaller BCD ring)

    Then grab a cheap sram trigger shifter for 10sp to replace the grip shift and off you go

    Proper:

    -Sram nx 12sp cassette
    -favourite 12sp mtb shifter/derailleur (axs/non axis GX would be best to match the eagle cassette imo)
    -matching crank/direct mount chainring (in fat bike offset?)

    Or a combo of both, no real reason to replace the whole crank, but if your bb could use an overhaul anyways you might as well.

  10. #670
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    Quote Originally Posted by ercchry View Post
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    Simple:

    -Wolf tooth goat link for the existing derailleur
    -aftermarket 11-46,48, or 50 10sp cassette (sunrace, and msc make these for cheap)
    -narrowwide chainring in a 28-34 depending on terrain. (I’m no expert on fat bike chainlines but my old 2x converted bike had the narrowwide on the inner, smaller BCD ring)

    Then grab a cheap sram trigger shifter for 10sp to replace the grip shift and off you go

    Proper:

    -Sram nx 12sp cassette
    -favourite 12sp mtb shifter/derailleur (axs/non axis GX would be best to match the eagle cassette imo)
    -matching crank/direct mount chainring (in fat bike offset?)

    Or a combo of both, no real reason to replace the whole crank, but if your bb could use an overhaul anyways you might as well.
    "IF" its any bike I prefer a 2x on, its a Fat bike. Whether 26 or 27.5..

    I personally would just keep the x7 front Der setup, get a new chain and get a 11-42 cassette 10 speed cassette and see how you like the range (a wolfs tooth if the mech isn't a long cage). Being able to have a 22/36 on a Fatbike with a tall cassette gives so much flexibility for something that is as tall as 29 but has the rolling resistance of a motorcycle wheel

  11. #671
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    Cheers guys
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  12. #672
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    When between sizes is it recommended to size up or down? I'm 6'1.5" with a 35" inseam (so proportionally slightly more legs than torso). I'm looking to get something like a Bronson or Troy and I probably fall right at the bottom of the XL range, but also in the top end of the Large range for some bikes.

    With modern bikes getting longer reach would it be recommended to size down if you are more legs? Also this would be a used bike purchase, so it's not like I can try all the bikes. Even the bike stores are very limited in what they have in stock to try.

  13. #673
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    Yeah, down for sure. Can always make a bike longer with stem/bars. Hard to go shorter

  14. #674
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    Quote Originally Posted by holden View Post
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    When between sizes is it recommended to size up or down? I'm 6'1.5" with a 35" inseam (so proportionally slightly more legs than torso). I'm looking to get something like a Bronson or Troy and I probably fall right at the bottom of the XL range, but also in the top end of the Large range for some bikes.

    With modern bikes getting longer reach would it be recommended to size down if you are more legs? Also this would be a used bike purchase, so it's not like I can try all the bikes. Even the bike stores are very limited in what they have in stock to try.
    Modern bikes in general are quite long however...

    I'm 6'0 w/ about a 33" inseam and I typically ride large using a 175mm crank and based on a number of sizing charts I also fall in-between.

    In my opinion, unless you know that a sleduro bike is outrageously long (i.e. Pole) I would always error on the larger size and for most brands I'd say you would be most comfortable on an XL/S4 etc.. they also typically come with longer droppers which is a bonus for your long inseam

  15. #675
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    Depends on the specific bike geometry. Go to a bike shop and see what range of reach works for you.

    I'm 6'2, and ride an XL. If it's a bit long, you can always run a 32-40mm stem, making your steering a lot faster which I like. You can run bars with sweep. Or you can even bump the fork up 10mm as well, although that would have other geometry considerations. But if you get a smaller bike and are cramped, you're not going to run a 60-70mm stem... lol

  16. #676
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    Sun peaks sounds like it’s going to be sick this summer. Tons of new trails. Definitely the best vibe there too

  17. #677
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  18. #678
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    As I shop for a bike and the budget is ballooning, now I'm thinking F it, why not just get a full suspension e-bike (Specialized, Santa Cruz) for a few thousand more. Anybody have experience with them on the trails?
    Last edited by holden; 06-24-2022 at 09:57 AM.

  19. #679
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    They are heavy. The 10-15lbs of weight is noticeable. I'd say they are just as fun, but like an electric car, you have to deal with the weight and be conscious of it.

    $10K don't get you much these days eh?

  20. #680
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    Quote Originally Posted by holden View Post
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    As I shop for a bike and the budget is ballooning, now I'm thinking F it, why not just get a full suspension e-bike (Specialized, Satan Cruz) for a few thousand more. Anybody have experience with them on the trails?
    I've ridden a Levo and VLT

    Feels like a Specialized Stumpjumper EVO or Norco Sight but more planted and with a motor

    If you just want the thrill of mountain biking without investing in the fitness, its totally the way to go. Personally I think you need to earn the downs.

    I heard the range is very good with the big batteries on both of those, BUT if you do run out, you're SOL.

    I just saw an ad for a new Pivot E-bike which apparently is more of an e-assist and where if you can run without a battery and not be punished.

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