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    Default Home entertainment system build recommendations

    So I am trying to decide between one of these two options but not knowing anything about the audio/video world, I have no idea which setup is better to go with. They are costing more or less the same. Please don't suggest mix and match or some other third party items as these are sort of a bundle packages I am looking at and being offered by a couple of different companies.

    Option 1:

    Da-lite contour HD 4K 160" perforated hi-def screen
    Optoma uhd50
    Denon 2600H 7.2 amplifier
    Omage L-C-R
    Omage rears
    Polk subwoofer
    Harmony remote

    Option 2:

    Ultrahigh fidelity 160" acoustically transparent screen
    Optoma uhd50
    Onkoyo Tx-SR393 surround sound receiver
    KEF ICF6560W in-wall L-C-R
    KEF ICF6560W in-ceiling deft surround and right surround
    Klipsch SPL100NAB sub
    Logitech Apple or Android remote control app with companion hardware remote

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    you have the right setup for an acoustically transparent screen?

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    I don't know what any of this shit means. I just wrote out how the items are worded in the quotes.

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    The first question for the projector/screen combination is what is the ambient light in the room? Will it be installed in a room with a lot of windows/sunlight? Is the screen going on a wall with pot lights above it?

    In the quotes you were provided, did they give you the EXACT projector screen model #'s? This will show the screen materials detailing the GAIN, VIEWING ANGLE, Ambient light rejection (if any), etc....

    The projector spec's show it's 2400 lumens which is ok, but again it depends on the room conditions of it's being installed.


    EDIT: Quick readup on screen GAIN: https://www.projectorsourcecanada.ca...EN%20GAIN.html
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    Quote Originally Posted by nissanK View Post
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    The first question for the projector/screen combination is what is the ambient light in the room? Will it be installed in a room with a lot of windows/sunlight? Is the screen going on a wall with pot lights above it?

    In the quotes you were provided, did they give you the EXACT projector screen model #'s? This will show the screen materials detailing the GAIN, VIEWING ANGLE, Ambient light rejection (if any), etc....

    The projector spec's show it's 2400 lumens which is ok, but again it depends on the room conditions of it's being installed.


    EDIT: Quick readup on screen GAIN: https://www.projectorsourcecanada.ca...EN%20GAIN.html
    Thanks I will read up on it. To answer your questions, there will be no windows in the room. It'll be just a regularly lit basement open area - there can be pot lights a few feet before the screen itself on the ceiling but doesn't have to. They didn't give any more info that what I wrote out. The second quote doesn't even itemize the pricing individually - I can see in the first one that the screen on its own is listed at $5K.
    Last edited by shakalaka; 08-02-2019 at 09:01 AM.

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    I assume this is new construction? Are you putting the package in-wall speakers right behind the screen?

    If not, the acoustically transparent screen is not needed.

    https://thehometheaterdiy.com/acoust...parent-screen/


    EDIT: Option 2 will be a cleaner installation as the speakers will all be installed within the wall and ceilings. BUUUUT you will need to ensure when building the wall space you are leaving enough space for the speakers to have airspace to properly operate.
    Last edited by nissanK; 08-02-2019 at 09:09 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by nissanK View Post
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    I assume this is new construction? Are you putting the package in-wall speakers right behind the screen?

    If not, the acoustically transparent screen is not needed.

    https://thehometheaterdiy.com/acoust...parent-screen/


    EDIT: Option 2 will be a cleaner installation as the speakers will all be installed within the wall and ceilings. BUUUUT you will need to ensure when building the wall space you are leaving enough space for the speakers to have airspace to properly operate.
    Yes new construction. So in both of these scenarios the speakers are going to be in the wall behind the screen and in the ceiling. I guess the first option just doesn't mention that but that is the idea behind both of these options.

    Any thoughts on the receivers that each option uses? Just Googling them shows that one is worth around $500 and the other $1200 and one is 7.2 and the other is 5.2 channel. Not sure if that matters.

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    7.2 and 5.2 channel is pretty weak these days.
    Originally posted by Thales of Miletus

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    The most immediate question is - what is it going to be used for? Gaming? Movies? TV?

    Also, there is a fuck ton of optimizing the setup even after its installed - does the contractor do this? (eg. 2 weeks later)

    Also, with our setup I installed a Class II (whole house) surge protector on the panel. Nothing like spending nuts $$ on A/V and then frying it next week with a transient electrical charge.

    Are you super picky about audio? 3 dimensional audio is going to become as wanted as 7.1 - was a few years ago - and that means a lot more speakers.
    Last edited by revelations; 08-02-2019 at 10:38 AM.

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    Hmm well I just wanted something for movies/tv/youtube for the most part. Perhaps occasional gaming wouldn't hurt and I plan to connect my PS4 to the system. But I am not much of a gamer and only ever play when some title I really want to play comes out. For audio - just a nice surround sound system is what I am after. I don't need to vibrate the walls or blow up people's ear drums or anything like that. Big thing is I want everything to be clean and no shit tons of wires and cables running around so that's why option for in-built behind the screen set up.

    I will ask the guys about the surge protectors and their thoughts or I can talk to my electrician about that.

    One of the guys' quote says calibration is included - although I am not sure if that is something that is done 2 weeks later or what. But either way both of these people have done work for me in the past and will likely continue to do so on other projects so I am sure if I called them in a few weeks for whatever reason, they'd happily swing by. I guess what my main concern right now is how the speakers/subwoofer/receiver being offered in each package compares to the other in terms of the brand, quality etc. Also the screen itself. Since the projector itself is the same that's not a big concern.
    Last edited by shakalaka; 08-02-2019 at 11:26 AM.

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    OK I get the type you are then - you have a very nice place (setup the way you want) and you are willing to trade off some performance for aesthetics - where as some clients (like me) build a room to specifically optimize/maximize the Audio/Visual experience.

    For you this means minimal lines, cables and components. The KEF in-wall speakers for eg. are very nice. You could do with just a hidden sound bar and some wireless speakers combined with ceiling speakers. Minimal visual intrusion. Option 2 is my suggestion.

    5.1 vs 7.2 (need 2 subs for 7.2) isnt probably a big concern to you in terms of sound.

    Also ask your guy if he could find you a LOW PROFILE sub (instead of a giant box). I know its mix and matching but it would help with aesthetics: for eg. https://www.htd.com/Sub-80LP


    The nice thing about the Class II protector (there also are surge protectors installed before the meter too, but they are much more pricey) is that it also protects your fridges and washer/dryer (the control side of a dryer is 120) and microwaves too.
    Last edited by revelations; 08-02-2019 at 11:33 AM.

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    I messaged the guy asking about the specific model numbers for speakers and all that. Let's see if that helps. I know Polk is good but never heard of Omage speakers. But I had also never heard of Kef and Klipsch until now so there's that.

    My big concerns is the difference in two receivers. Since both quotes are more or less on par, I am not sure how one uses a $1200 7.2 channel receiver and the other a under $500 5.2 channel. So presumably the 7.2 options is saving costs elsewhere? I just don't know what it is - is it bad quality speakers, sub etc. I was also leaning towards option 2 but mostly because I spoke with that individual first, but then I noticed the price difference in the two receivers that are being included.

    I am also building a golf simulator room and have no knowledge on how to set that up and still looking for companies that can tell me about it. If anyone has any knowledge on that please drop me a message and I'd like to pick your brain.

    Electrical panel is already in so a pre-electrical panel surge protector won't be an option but I will chat with my electrician re: options available now.

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    I wouldn't bother with a surge suppressor, UPS, or power conditioner.

    Speakers behind an acoustically transparent screen are actually quite nice in terms of localizing the sound to the content.

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    Quote Originally Posted by killramos View Post
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    7.2 and 5.2 channel is pretty weak these days.
    This. 5.1.2 or 7.1.2 is where it's at for normals, 5.2.2 or 7.2.2 for the ballers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Buster View Post
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    I wouldn't bother with a surge suppressor, UPS, or power conditioner.
    I definitely would here in Calgary. I've replaced enough devices and UPS' after a nearby strike to know.

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    Quote Originally Posted by revelations View Post
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    I definitely would here in Calgary. I've replaced enough devices and UPS' after a nearby strike to know.
    a "nearby" strike is blowing your shit up regardless of what you put in your house.

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    Make sure your receiver is able to decode Atmos and DTS:X spatial audio signals. Even if you don't put the extra channels in the spacial audio sounds unreal, even with the same speakers my Marantz receiver made a huge difference on content with atmos.

    I have a whole home surge protector after my last tv was friend. No issues since. Hard to say if it works or not but it was cheap ( my brother is an electrician so install was free and parts wholesale ) insurance.
    Originally posted by Thales of Miletus

    If you think I have been trying to present myself as intellectually superior, then you truly are a dimwit.
    Originally posted by Toma
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buster View Post
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    a "nearby" strike is blowing your shit up regardless of what you put in your house.
    Thats not what I meant - if you get your home struck directly, all bets are off. Even with the best possible surge protection the EMP will hit all components anyway.

    If you get a strike in your neighbourhood, the UPS and surge suppressors can definitely help. I have seen this with my clients over and over again.

    The effects are also cumulative. Enough low-level strikes nearby can also degrade equipment. Thats where a UPS/surge device comes in.
    Last edited by revelations; 08-02-2019 at 06:31 PM.

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    Those quotes dont make sense to me.
    Personally I'd take the first option. I have an in wall setup in my basement and a tower set in my bonus room and I much prefer the tower set. Both are 5.2.2
    Dont know much about those particular towers but I doubt the in walls are going to be better acoustically

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    Curious as to the exact model numbers - really difficult to give any recommendations with such little info.

    That projector is very average, and it would be one of my last choices to light up a 160" screen, especially if you aren't in a velvet-lined bat cave. You lose even more light using an acoustically transparent screen to boot. Calibrated, the UHD50 puts out less than half it's advertised lumens in most picture modes, and that is with no zoom. Input lag is also high which is a concern as you said you want to game on it, and HDR performance is sub-par with its low dynamic range. For 4KHDR you're only going to see about 80% of the P3 color gamut. Look at something like the Epson 4010 in that price range or a refurbished Epson 5040UB ($1497) which is an absolutely phenomenal deal and will blow the Optoma out of the water.

    Did your installer check if you are sensitive to the rainbow effect before they spec'd you a DLP projector? Did they tell you that projector uses the old 0.47" DLP chip which means you will have a permanent black boarder around your entire viewing area that you will need to hide with a very thick screen boarder? (more than 5").

    What is the exact distance the projector will be from the screen? That is really important.

    The sub (especially if just one) will probably be too weak for your room if this is a large-ish HT room as I am not aware of any subs made by Polk that are very good. How big is your room? Most people don't have nearly enough sub in their HT setups.

    Make sure you aren't paying any more then Monoprice / Primecables / Amazon pricing for your cables & wires, or get them yourself - that is one area your installer will try to bone you with 1000% markup. Run opti-HDMI to your projector if you can.

    As always, room treatments and calibration are going to make a bigger difference than almost anything else as long as you have decent equipment.

    Stick with the Denon 2600H - it's a better unit than that Onkyo and room correction is better, which is probably one of the easiest things to appreciate even if you aren't an enthusiast.

    How much are the quotes? Pretty shady that you are being quoted stuff and they aren't even telling you what you're getting (model numbers, screen gain, screen material, etc.) - that is a big red flag for me right off the bat. Also if they're telling you calibration is included, find out if they are just going to run the Audyssey on that receiver for you (which you can do yourself in 5 minutes) or if they are bringing in a proper ISF certified calibrator to calibrate your projector as well - the latter is worth something, the former is not.
    Last edited by Mitsu3000gt; 08-06-2019 at 11:57 AM.

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