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Thread: Will 1500W heat my garage?

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitsu3000gt View Post
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    Did you do it yourself or did you have an electrician come by? I would need an electrician haha.
    Ditto on one 240v electric heater if you don't need 24/7 heated garage. 15-20 minutes even in the coldest weather it can get the garage to a decent working temp and in about an hour on max you'll be in a t-shirt.

    If you have a electrical panel, there isn't 2 slots free? It's pretty easy adding a breaker.

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    Quote Originally Posted by botox View Post
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    Ditto on one 240v electric heater if you don't need 24/7 heated garage. 15-20 minutes even in the coldest weather it can get the garage to a decent working temp and in about an hour on max you'll be in a t-shirt.

    If you have a electrical panel, there isn't 2 slots free? It's pretty easy adding a breaker.
    That sounds perfect to be honest, and all I'd likely use it for. Maybe if we had an other week of -30, I would set it to keep the garage at +5C or something which I don't imagine would be too big of a deal. Other than that, I would just use it when I was out there (or that is my vision anyway). I am not concerned about $200/year or so of added electricity costs, and I'd be surprised if it was that bad. I also prefer the idea of not having gas/propane or an open flame in the garage.

    Yes there are lots of slots free on the garage electrical panel. The only pre-installed breakers though I think are two or three 15 AMPs. Adding a breaker is easy but I don't know about the 240V part - I'll be paying someone to do that + install the heater whatever route I take.

    I was wondering though, if its super cold out and you heat the garage from -7C to +20C relatively quickly, then turn the heat off when you're done, obviously the garage will stay warm for a while but it'll eventually drop back down to -7C. Is that going to cause any condensation/frost issues?

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    The wiring is super easy. Cost me $60 total for 10-3 wire, a breaker, and a wall outlet. Tons of videos on YouTube.

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    I've ran this setup for many years and no issue with condensation. Only issue I had was when it was super cold and there is snow/ice from the cars that melted and drained to the garage door that created a ice seal. So then the next day you open the door there's a big snap from being frozen shut. May not happen to you depending how your garage drains but just try to remember to get rid of any snow or ice before you heat up the garage. From that I got into a habit of kicking off the big chunk of ice that usually builds up on the mudflaps before entering the garage.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitsu3000gt View Post
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    Yes there are lots of slots free on the garage electrical panel. The only pre-installed breakers though I think are two or three 15 AMPs. Adding a breaker is easy but I don't know about the 240V part - I'll be paying someone to do that + install the heater whatever route I take.

    Post a pic of the garage panel (or model# of the box) so we can tell you if it's set up for 240V service or not. Removing the front panel would be ideal to see the wiring setup.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitsu3000gt View Post
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    That sounds perfect to be honest, and all I'd likely use it for. Maybe if we had an other week of -30, I would set it to keep the garage at +5C or something which I don't imagine would be too big of a deal. Other than that, I would just use it when I was out there (or that is my vision anyway). I am not concerned about $200/year or so of added electricity costs, and I'd be surprised if it was that bad. I also prefer the idea of not having gas/propane or an open flame in the garage.

    Yes there are lots of slots free on the garage electrical panel. The only pre-installed breakers though I think are two or three 15 AMPs. Adding a breaker is easy but I don't know about the 240V part - I'll be paying someone to do that + install the heater whatever route I take.

    I was wondering though, if its super cold out and you heat the garage from -7C to +20C relatively quickly, then turn the heat off when you're done, obviously the garage will stay warm for a while but it'll eventually drop back down to -7C. Is that going to cause any condensation/frost issues?
    You are not adding any moisture to the air when you heat then cool the garage, unless you park a cold vehicle inside and the snow melts off it.

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    You will maybe reach 10 degC which honestly, should be fine and you'll get higher on the days that aren't extreme.
    240V is better and that's what I do, but it's certainly not necessary. Working at 10 C is quite manageable and tolerable. Get a hoodie and grow a pair. It's >>>>> better than -29degC.
    Even with my heavily insulated (spray foamed) attached garage and 240V heater I still only choose to hold it at 10-12 degC.
    Last edited by ThePenIsMightier; 01-30-2020 at 09:18 PM.

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    This is the one I got on sale for less than $100:

    https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...at/A-p8870362e

    Gets me to 21* in less than an hour from a dead cold ass garage.

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    Found this on a website. Here is the theoretical. I am sure people will say in practice that a 1500W heater is enough. haha.

    https://www.danleysgarageworld.com/garage-heater/

    For those that want a more accurate measurement and don’t mind doing a bit more math, then you need to calculate the amount of air by volume inside your garage. If we use or original example of 20 by 24 garage and multiply it by the height of the ceilings – let’s say 8 feet – then you get the number of cubic feet of your air. 480 square feet multiplied by 8 feet is 3,840 cubic feet.

    For increased accuracy, you then need to multiply the R-value of the insulation into the cubic foot number. R-values on the outside of the home can range anywhere from 13 in warm climates to 27 in cold ones.

    If you have really good insulation you can simplify this number to 0.5, average insulation to 1, weak to 1.5, and 5 if you have no insulation. Take this number and multiply it by both the cubic feet and the amount of temperature rise that you want. Roughly the formula comes out to this: (Insulation * Cubic Feet of Garage * Temperature Rise) / 1.6 = # of BTU.

    In an area of 3,840 cubic feet, with a 35 degree temperature rise with average insulation (or 1) would come out to this: (1 * 3840 * 35) / 1.6 = 84,000 BTU. To get this down into watts, merely divide the amount of BTUs by 3.41. At 84,000 BTU this comes out to approximately 24,633 watts.
    20x20x9 = 3600

    -7C to 15C = 22 C = 72F

    (1 * 3600 * 72) / 1.6 = 162,000 BTU = 47.5K Watts

    47.5 KW / 1.5KW = 31 hours

    The funny thing about garages is that you will likely be able to heat the air to comfortable, but as soon as you turn off the heat source, the slab will drop the temp fast.
    My Tesla referral link: https://ts.la/moon14483

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    Quote Originally Posted by BerserkerCatSplat View Post
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    Post a pic of the garage panel (or model# of the box) so we can tell you if it's set up for 240V service or not. Removing the front panel would be ideal to see the wiring setup.
    I'll try grab a pic. I actually think I recall the builder telling me it's pre-wired for an electric car charging port, so I might have 240V there already and just need to add an outlet.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Maxx Mazda View Post
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    This is the one I got on sale for less than $100:

    https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...at/A-p8870362e

    Gets me to 21* in less than an hour from a dead cold ass garage.
    Oh ok so you have a portable one rather than a permanently fixed one? That would probably work for me too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitsu3000gt View Post
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    I'll try grab a pic. I actually think I recall the builder telling me it's pre-wired for an electric car charging port, so I might have 240V there already and just need to add an outlet.
    That's definitely a good sign, EV chargers are all 240V so you probably just need to add an outlet. Adding an outlet is dead easy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BerserkerCatSplat View Post
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    That's definitely a good sign, EV chargers are all 240V so you probably just need to add an outlet. Adding an outlet is dead easy.
    I found a pic....I think that little box to the left is what they told me was the EV rough-in.

    IMG_20200131_083434.jpg

    IMG_20200131_083441.jpg

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    You got power for days by the looks of it. What you want is a simple task for an electrician. Honestly you could do it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by arcticcat522 View Post
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    You got power for days by the looks of it. What you want is a simple task for an electrician. Honestly you could do it.
    Good to hear.

    For me it's mostly about the time & effort. If the job takes me half a day and multiple trips to Home Depot because I don't really know what I'm doing, but an electrician can do it for me correctly, safely and quickly, I'd rather pay someone to do it unless the cost is prohibitive.

    So is that little box to the left my 240V? The breaker in the very top of the pic is double pole 100 AMP and the bottom also has a double pole 100 AMP (labeled "sub panel") along with a single pole 15 AMP for the garage lights and plugs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by benyl View Post
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    Found this on a website. Here is the theoretical. I am sure people will say in practice that a 1500W heater is enough. haha.

    https://www.danleysgarageworld.com/garage-heater/



    20x20x9 = 3600

    -7C to 15C = 22 C = 72F

    (1 * 3600 * 72) / 1.6 = 162,000 BTU = 47.5K Watts

    47.5 KW / 1.5KW = 31 hours

    The funny thing about garages is that you will likely be able to heat the air to comfortable, but as soon as you turn off the heat source, the slab will drop the temp fast.
    Just a minor point but going from -7C to 15C is just under a 40F change (about 19F to 59F), not 72F. So that cuts your time almost in half.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitsu3000gt View Post
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    Good to hear.

    For me it's mostly about the time & effort. If the job takes me half a day and multiple trips to Home Depot because I don't really know what I'm doing, but an electrician can do it for me correctly, safely and quickly, I'd rather pay someone to do it unless the cost is prohibitive.

    So is that little box to the left my 240V? The breaker in the very top of the pic is double pole 100 AMP and the bottom also has a double pole 100 AMP (labeled "sub panel") along with a single pole 15 AMP for the garage lights and plugs.
    Just to cover your ass, make sure the electrician pulls a permit for it. I know some people will probably say fuck that, but when you're dealing with an electric heater of all things, the last thing you want is a fire and insurance deciding not to pay out cuz you didn't have it inspected.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sabad66 View Post
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    Just to cover your ass, make sure the electrician pulls a permit for it. I know some people will probably say fuck that, but when you're dealing with an electric heater of all things, the last thing you want is a fire and insurance deciding not to pay out cuz you didn't have it inspected.
    Good advice, thanks. Makes sense.

    I sent an email to the "electricman" who seemed to have very positive google reviews. We'll see what the quote is like.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitsu3000gt View Post
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    Good to hear.

    For me it's mostly about the time & effort. If the job takes me half a day and multiple trips to Home Depot because I don't really know what I'm doing, but an electrician can do it for me correctly, safely and quickly, I'd rather pay someone to do it unless the cost is prohibitive.

    So is that little box to the left my 240V? The breaker in the very top of the pic is double pole 100 AMP and the bottom also has a double pole 100 AMP (labeled "sub panel") along with a single pole 15 AMP for the garage lights and plugs.
    The whole panel is 240V that’s what comes into your house. A normal breaker uses one phase which is 120V, a dual pole breaker uses both phases so 240V.

    Yeah I use that portable one since putting in a plug was so easy and I can put the heater away in the summer when I’m not using it.

    Honestly man, there’s TONS of YouTube tutorials out there. I didn’t even shut off power to my panel when I wired it in and I only zapped myself once!

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    Quote Originally Posted by never View Post
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    Just a minor point but going from -7C to 15C is just under a 40F change (about 19F to 59F), not 72F. So that cuts your time almost in half.
    I stand corrected. 15 hours is still a long time. haha
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    Quote Originally Posted by benyl View Post
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    I stand corrected. 15 hours is still a long time. haha
    Haha, yup...only have to plan a day in advance to get it up to temp!

    Just get a wood burning stove and you're set!

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